Matt306 Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hi allI decided to put some old chrome Lucas spotlights on the front grill of my herald. Now what with the radiio, USB chargers and halogen headlights and electric fan I think my alternator may be a little underpowered. I dont know what amperage it can give as it was an ebay 'bargain' when obtained. Anyone have any idea what would be a suitable alternator for my herald, and at a decent price, perhaps one from another old car etc .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Firstly, add up what you have.a single 55w bulb uses 5A (near enough) so total 20AElectric fan, could be 7-16A depending on how big/poerful it isRadio (unless a massively powerful one that is used so everybodies ears bleed) and USB chargers are unlikly to exceed 2-3A, but call it 5AHeater? Another 5.So in reality, anything 45A or over is what will be more than adequate (remember cooling fan only runs intermittently)My spit has EFI, did have extra spots, electric fan etc etc and I have always used a 40A denso with no issues, but I rarely used the spots so they got removed. I use the same on my Toledo, and that did loads of night rallies etc so full lights/spots lights were on nearly all the time,heater too!I think there are some well priced 65A alternators available that are a straight swap, Canleys may have them? When fitting, don't forget to run an extra large cable from the alternator to the battery positive terminal, the original is unlikely to be big enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve AKA vitessesteve Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Work out the max current draw: radio, spot lights, engine fan, demister fan etc. That is the basis for your alternator - it needs to make more electric that having everything turned on at once.For exampleHead lights 100w Spot lights 100w Radio 100wWould be 300watts divide by 12 = 25Amp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 thanks for the reply. I noticed with spots on the volt meter dropped a little this made me think I was taxing it a little. I saw canleys do an alternator at over 100 ,wondered if anyone could recommend one which would fit but not necessarily from a triumph.Quoted from cliftyhanger Firstly, add up what you have.a single 55w bulb uses 5A (near enough) so total 20AElectric fan, could be 7-16A depending on how big/poerful it isRadio (unless a massively powerful one that is used so everybodies ears bleed) and USB chargers are unlikly to exceed 2-3A, but call it 5AHeater? Another 5.So in reality, anything 45A or over is what will be more than adequate (remember cooling fan only runs intermittently)My spit has EFI, did have extra spots, electric fan etc etc and I have always used a 40A denso with no issues, but I rarely used the spots so they got removed. I use the same on my Toledo, and that did loads of night rallies etc so full lights/spots lights were on nearly all the time,heater too!I think there are some well priced 65A alternators available that are a straight swap, Canleys may have them? When fitting, don't forget to run an extra large cable from the alternator to the battery positive terminal, the original is unlikely to be big enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Hi Matt, not sure what would be the best for your situation but I know the one that I would NOT recommend.Many people rave over the Dynamator but I would stay clear as they are prone to failureAlternator squeezed into a dynamo body - reduced cooling air etcRoger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 What wiring setup are you running? The original dynamo wiring is inadequate for anything beyond standard, the wire is quite thin and will cause a voltage drop due to the resistance as current increases (V=IR). IMO its a good idea to run a short thickish cable from the alternator directly to the starter solenoid, and then use the starter solenoid as a binding post for your relay feeds (to your lights), this should minimise the voltage drop. Apologies if you've already changed this.On the subject of alternators, Lucas A127 style alternators fit (instead of the usual ACR style), these are usually available in higher current outputs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 In a CT mag back issue, wrote about a modern alternator we fitted ( 63 amp with additional off take making it 75 amp) and fitted a HD 98 strand cable to the solenoidThis covers our increased need in using 4 driving lamps ,over and above headlights, cigarette light for operating satnav and phone charging and amp for MP3/mobile playing music.....plus other power raining add ons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Quoted from Velocita Rosso In a CT mag back issue, wrote about a modern alternator we fitted ( 63 amp with additional off take making it 75 amp) and fitted a HD 98 strand cable to the solenoidThis covers our increased need in using 4 driving lamps ,over and above headlights, cigarette light for operating satnav and phone charging and amp for MP3/mobile playing music.....plus other power raining add ons When I put the alternator in I put a couple of extra charging wires going back to the battery from the alternator.Which mag, can you recall.Thank you everyone for the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinger Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Be aware that when an alternator goes on load as demand increases , that 'drag' on the engine increases due to the way the alternator works in that it does sap power to some degree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Nothings for free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Quoted from Matt306 When I put the alternator in I put a couple of extra charging wires going back to the battery from the alternator.Which mag, can you recall.Thank you everyone for the replies. [Sorry, link no longer available] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzer Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 I started with a 60 amp alt for my 65 2000 rally car. But added heated front and rear screen, twin fans, spots etc and although on paper it about covered it. In practise it didnt. Basically the max output for any alternator is only at the max rpm specified so under different operating conditions you wont be getting 60amps. Even though i didnt have all ancillaries on it still couldnt supply enough charge to stop discarge ofcthe battery. So i would suggest working out what you require on paper then over spec the alternator amp by at least a third to be safe. I now run a 120 amp alt which is adequate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinger Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 On the overall responses .. I could not agree more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 I was thinking something like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLA.....e:g:-PMAAOSwrhBZDLi9Is it right hand side for our four pots, not sure whether its right or left depending on engine viewing.THANK YOU to all those who took the time to reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 R/H seems to be correct to me.Edit:Expect some faffing with belt sizes, here's an image of an A127 fitted to our Herald's engine, might help you convince yourself of the mountings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzer Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 Looks like good value. I went for a lightweight mitsubishi/denso version which is big time compared to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Quoted from JumpingFrog R/H seems to be correct to me.Edit:Expect some faffing with belt sizes, here's an image of an A127 fitted to our Herald's engine, might help you convince yourself of the mountings. Is that a twin carb poking out from under the sheet and a spitty fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Quoted from Matt306 Is that a twin carb poking out from under the sheet and a spitty fan Yes on the fan, the carb is actually a single SU HS4 on a Toledo 1300 manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 Quoted from JumpingFrog Yes on the fan, the carb is actually a single SU HS4 on a Toledo 1300 manifold. much difference to power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Quoted from Matt306 I was thinking something like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLA.....e:g:-PMAAOSwrhBZDLi9Is it right hand side for our four pots, not sure whether its right or left depending on engine viewing.THANK YOU to all those who took the time to reply Irrelevant really as you can undo the long bolts and twist the casing to suit orientation, and then refit bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpingFrog Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Quoted from Matt306 much difference to power? Not sure on power, hasn't moved yet. I think the manifold is more restrictive, the carb is roughly equivalent to a CD150. The CD150 manifold doesn't have the sharp turns that this has. I'm told John Kipping used to favour this manifold bored out for a HS6/HIF44 carb. That was meant to be very similar in performance to twin SU's but with better fuel economy. I'm definitely not aiming for reliability not performance though.Quoted from Velocita Rosso Irrelevant really as you can undo the long bolts and twist the casing to suit orientation, and then refit bolts Interesting, didn't know you could do that. Makes sense though from a production perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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