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re chroming h/lamp bezels


Bonners

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I remember this being discussed a few years back; the mazak is very hard to get a good finish on and many rechromers wouldn’t risk their reputations by trying and possibly ending up with a sub-standard finish. I suppose it all depends on the condition of yours, and how much work would be required to get them ready for chroming. If there’s no pitting, only dulling, they might be successful - if you go for it, let me know.
Am I correct in that I remember fibreglass versions being made a few years back as a possible replacement?

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Hogie: Are you talking about the "V's"?  Or the thin tall side trim?  Would be nice if these could be re chromed.  I was lucky a while back and found one set of NOS V's and two sets of headlight trims on EBay.

I remember someone said the repo headlight trims were shorter accross the top form original.

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SILVABRONZ near ALTON Hants, they specialize in re chroming parts just such as this, their process includes specialist  fillers to fill any pitting in the original part so you will receive an original part that is as new, I've had work done and they are expensive but you pay for what you get and their work is A1 !

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I've had small items of monkey metal chromed buy them ie handlebar switch housings throttle end caps etc the items where pitted into the metal below through the chrome and the finished items where totally unblemished A1 finish they have also plated steel headlamp rims for me again as new!, the headlamp cowls are large items and if badly pitted would require a lot of work . Best case as always is to give the platers the best possible items you have for refinishing as they require less work, I would take one in and get an estimate as to cost , it wont be cheap though !, if they are parts that you just cant buy nos then you have to bite the bullet and spend after all they are the highlight finishing components on the car!

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finish is a lot down to how you look after it I asked the platers what I should do to preserve chrome there answer was to always keep it clean and once cleaned and dried seal with a good quality wax polish, do not cover your chrome with wd40 in the winter it is hydroscophic and absorbs and retains water so will actually promote rust use engine oil or silicone based grease to keep the road salt and water out  

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Sure I picked up that wd40 is hydroscopic on the net, that dosnt mean its correct mind, I have stopped using it on my bikes and cars as I 've had parts look like they have had brown rain on them after coating only a month prior!, abrasive polishes should only be used to remove rust from a chromed part buff off and then wax to seal.

I'll be going to Silvabronz in a couple of weeks with a steel bumper and some v trims (front bumper of my new /old Bond v5 not in my hand yet so saying no more!). I will give you the heads up on the Triumph v trims when back , I know they do Mazak/ cast/ monkey metal as I said I've had cast parts plated there, I have photos on disc somewhere of the parts (on disc as the hard drive went ) if I find them I'll post them, Ring them they are really busy and have a fairly long waiting list on works and I dont think they call the plating on Mazak chrome plating ! although it is the same finish, my parts where on a Russian delivery/camper scooter that was stored in an old concrete garage for 2 years after fitting and where as good as the day I picked them up,

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  • 2 weeks later...

1337 wrote:






Again, I wouldn't

C.


Am a great believer in using cheap Wilcos/supermarket engine oil as a preservative - not used stuff like they used to do in the old days, 'cos it''s horrible, dirty & carcinogenic. Although I have been known to use used gear/diff. oil...Every now & again it gets tipped down seams, brushed onto surfaces as well as the 'nooks & crannies'......Everytime the cars go up on my pal's ramp at his unit, I go round the underside with a brush & some oil in an old beans tin, wherever there is a hint of surface rust, much to his disgust. as it drips onto the garage floor!!!  

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