WIMPUS Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Hi, I've got trouble with black plugs when i drive into traffic jams etc.Have this for a while, sometimes it's fine, sometimes start to misfire.Turning the mixture down doesn't help as it starts to sputter.., or could this be timing? (normally that's setup right to).Also what i've seen today (after 2 years..), that my pistons are not the same type (different number). I had a look at my 2 spare carbs sets that i had.First one is FZX 1258 (the same one as on my spitfire), they had both the same number on them (but totally different at the ones on my car).Then my second set FZX 1122 , they have the AUC 1331B pistons, again both where the same .. Could this be an issue or not ? Pics below is of the ones in my Spitfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfiandy Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi, I noticed I had different pistons in my HS2s I ordered a replacement from ebay of the right type, I had one from an MG. However I did not notice any significant difference in performance.Changing the spindles and ensuring there were no leaks in the inlet manifold gaskets as well as changing the needles to a richer one such that it could be leaner at idle and then still be rich enough when under load made much more difference.Regards,Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Had a problem with black plugs and black exhaust smoke with my 2500 when I rebuilt the motor. After trying all other adjustments failed, I replaced both needles and jets (with standard ones). After all the originals were 40 odd years old. This cured the problem. Car is now running very well.Tony.(eek) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Quoted from nang Had a problem with black plugs and black exhaust smoke with my 2500 when I rebuilt the motor. After trying all other adjustments failed, I replaced both needles and jets (with standard ones). After all the originals were 40 odd years old. This cured the problem. Car is now running very well.Tony.(eek) My needles are 2 years old (but done around 30.000miles with them).The jets are the original ones as i didnt want to buy a waxstat conversion kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 If the jets are the originals (and Waxstats!) you found your problem I think. Buy new fixed jets and a conversion kit.Other possible problems:If it happens mainly when stuck in traffic it might be a heat-soak problem - you could try some heatshields. If it's a problem more associated with long periods of idling and it seems to get richer the longer it idles it could also be leaking needle valves causing the fuel level to rise in the float chambers. Could be caused by tired needle valves or fuel pressure too high.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Quoted from Nick Jones If the jets are the originals (and Waxstats!) you found your problem I think. Buy new fixed jets and a conversion kit.Nick Nick, i've converted them with 2 eurocents, so they are fixed Had problems when i start to drive her , eventually flooding at every stop i did.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRoger Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Wim, if your engine is running rich at idle it's well worth replacing the jets. It's the jets that wear, not the needles. You really should measure CO levels as it will tell you something about the condition of your carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Quoted from GTRoger Wim, if your engine is running rich at idle it's well worth replacing the jets. It's the jets that wear, not the needles. You really should measure CO levels as it will tell you something about the condition of your carbs. Co is usually high, always need to turn it down for the emissions testBut as i told you on fb, i've adjusted the carbs again (tune up) and seems to be a lot better now.The big test will be next week in traffic, but noticed already it isn't smoky anymore then the last few days. Maybe in the future i will cash out for a waxstat conversion , now i've got waxstat jets that are converted with 2 eurocents to a normal jet.First thing will be a new OD, clutch etc 😲 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 Most over rich running when all adjustments seem correct is down to the choke not returning the jet to its adjnnut after youve used itpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Quoted from Pete Lewis Most over rich running when all adjustments seem correct is down to the choke not returning the jet to its adjnnut after youve used itpete I had problems before with the jets not returning fully back.But fitted new springs this year (or last year) and that fixed the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Had a little + 60 mile drive today and she did it great, plugs look a lot better then before. But as i said above, i do have play on the throttle shafts, so that could be in need of doing to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 Another pic of yesterday at my uncle's yard (so i don't disturb my neighbours, his neighbours are nearly all farmers and don't care ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 Hello Wim, throttle shaft wear is more noticeable at idle, but the effect on normal running is much less, in other words it's nice to get that aspect corrected but it is not a big issue, at full throttle it's not even relevant Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 Quoted from piman Hello Wim, throttle shaft wear is more noticeable at idle, but the effect on normal running is much less, in other words it's nice to get that aspect corrected but it is not a big issue, at full throttle it's not even relevant Alec My idle seems to be pretty good, but around 1000rpm.But had a look at a spare set of carbs i got with a bunch of parts and at first measurements it only needs a new shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2009poolesparky Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 I am still having some mixture problems with my hs2's. But as for the throttle spindles I've been told if you replace these you have to ream out the old bush before you put the new one in. I did some research and there is a guy on eBay that sells them new with a tiny rubber O seal on the ends. You don't need to ream the old bushes out and when you install them just give them a light librication with some oil. Works a treat and stopped all my vacuum leaks. Now I just need to figure out my fueling problems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2009poolesparky Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4WYY3iDdp0kRl9lVmtQM1VqeTQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Quoted from 2009poolesparky I am still having some mixture problems with my hs2's. But as for the throttle spindles I've been told if you replace these you have to ream out the old bush before you put the new one in. I did some research and there is a guy on eBay that sells them new with a tiny rubber O seal on the ends. You don't need to ream the old bushes out and when you install them just give them a light librication with some oil. Works a treat and stopped all my vacuum leaks. Now I just need to figure out my fueling problems... Well i do have 2 spare body's that seems to be pretty good, so need to check those with new shafts.If they are good, then i will transfer the carbs parts.I've seen those shafts with a rubber o-seal, but do think it would get worn very fast, as i do drive it a lot 🙂Also found those shafts a bit to expensive (to test), found a guy here on the forum that can fit new bushes for a very good price. Just bought 2 new usual shafts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Hello Wim, it is usually the shafts that wear, personally I wouldn't bother with bushes (unless the body is really bad) or extra rubber seals for as I said earlier, it affects idle and low speed running, once the throttle is open the percentage of leaked air is very small.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Yesterday sended off my spare carb body's to Roger (GTRoger) to get them re-bushed 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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