piman Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Hello Pete, doing as you suggest will give an error, the coil must be drawing current to get a true voltage reading of the input. Without that it will read system i.e. battery voltage, ballast or not. So the distributor wire should be connected and the points closed.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 what about this for a dafter idea - its the misfire killing the coil? not the coil being killed causing the misfire?-has this all ready been discussed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 you are not running plugs with a R in the suffice, these are for radio suppression on younger cars with a much higher HT than our oldies produce and you can end up with misfires etc. just another idea Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 any luck yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thanks Guys. I'm just back from holidays so will head out to the garage at the weekend and do some tests and bring her for a blast. I'll let you know what I find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Between jobs on the house, work and bad weather I have put this on hold. I have been rebuilding the front brake calipers as well so I couldn't bring her out for a blast. So sorry for the late reply again!I went out to the car last night and fired her up. She started on the button and idled up to temperature. I moved the car and she was running fine. I then fitted a new condensor to rule that out of the equation.And this is why I now think that the coil getting hot is a red herring and that the misfire is distributor related...... IAfter fitting the new condensor the car fired up but wouldn’t tick over. I checked the timing and the timing was 4 degrees retarded! Strange as I had set it to 7 degrees advances a few months ago. So I set the timing back to 7 degrees advanced, and she fired up and ticked over perfectly. I blipped the throttle a few times and then she was ticking over low at 500rpm and struggling to keep idling. I checked the timing again and it was then at 0 degrees! It seems like the timing is going out?? And that might explain why she would drive perfectly until you pass 3k rpm and then after that she would be missing.There seems to be a fair bit of play in the vacuum advance thingey/ base plate in the distributor as in maybe 6mm of play. Should there be that much play? Could the distributor just be worn or the vacuum advance thing be sticking or have a split diaphragm? Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hello Markro,are you sure the distributor is not slipping in the clamp, either due to the clamp being distorted or the distributor body is worn where it is clamped. The easy way is to mark the body of the distributor and the clamp and see if there is any slip?if your vacuum module is U\S then there would be no change, it just wouldn't advance when required. I don't understand what you mean about 6mm play in the baseplate, which way?Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Thanks Alec, I'll mark the position of the distributor and check. It is tight to the hand as I did the bolt up pretty tight, but I will double check it.I don't know all of the terminology yet ;) so bare with me....The vacuum advance module uses a metal rod to pull/ push the base plate in the distributor. This rod goes through a hole in the distributor body, and then is bent at the end which goes through a hole in the base plate to enable it to push/pull it to change the timing.There is play in this hole, i.e. the hole is bigger than the rod. So I can move the base plate back and forth (clockwise/ anti clockwise) with my fingers by about 6mm. Is this normal or is it excessive wear? (I hope that makes sense. I'll be back out with the car on Saturday and I'll take some photos which would be easier to explain). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Starting a new thread on this as I belief it's timing now and not the coil.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 New thread here:Sorry , link no longer available Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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