Nick Moore Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 OK, a question for the experts. Because the PI inlet manifolds will require a lot of work to fit beneath the bonnet, and then may not fit around the headers, I'm thinking of making an EFI inlet manifold. Nothing fancy, just six runners leading to a plenum with a single butterfly on the front as Nick Jones and Paul Tegler have done. I'll include radiused ram pipes in the plenumI've found a local company selling mandrel-bent aluminium tube of varying diameters and angles, and the smallest angle of 30 degrees will probably work well. The inlet ports on the head are 32mm, and the nearest tube diameters are 29.2mm or 34.8mm. My instinct is to choose the narrower runners, to increase the airspeed, mixing from the injector and hopefully torque. On the other hand, I don't want to restrict airflow, and a 2.6L engine needs a lot of air...Opinions, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainzy Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 2.8mm diameter is not a huge increase over the port size, I would go with that. I think you'd only really see a torque benefit if you used tapered runners. Length is important, try make the runners as long as possible if torque is what you're after. If you want to increase air speed and top end power, use shorter ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phwoar Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 This is one of those times when knowing someone with a large 3D (aluminium) printer could be incredibly useful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 For a 2L I'd use the smaller tube, for 2.6L, I might be tempted to go large and fettle the head slightly to match. Dunno really - tricky one!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Time to wrap the car up again for a couple of weeks and head back to work. It never seems like I make much progress during my week off, so I've made a list to remind myself:Installed a clutch master cylinder and proved it all works;made up a battery cable;fitted a braided oil gauge line;fitted the gearbox tunnel;modified the aftermarket dash trim so that the H-piece fits;and fitted two windows in the garage in place of open timber latticework.The rear portion of the tunnel needs modifying to fit around the Supra box, so I decided that it could be removable. In theory the rest of the tunnel and the dash support won't need to be removed if I ever need to remove the gearbox and engine as one unit. The tunnel also has a small door to access the filler plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 That's a very handy modification to the tunnel Nick.Both of the old Spits I started with had the cover cut there, makes engine/gearbox removal simpler, not having to remove the whole cover and H frame.Gives access to several other things on the standard set-up also.Great to see how the car is progressing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Getting there mate. Its looking good. Love the leather on the H frame where you get that from???Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Love the effect on that last pic, car looks amazing, is going to be an awesome machine when finished for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Hi Chris,The leather on the frame was leftovers from the hides used to cover my seats. I just wanted a plain cover, but the upholsterer got all excited about French stitches and extra padding, and made a beautiful job. I need to find prettier bolts for the feet though.N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 The bolts look fine mate. 😎Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 I got sent home for a few days due to rain. Bit of a surprise, as Queensland's wet season doesn't begin until November or December. The enforced holiday was put to good use though - the gearbox mounts are finished. For the first time, the power train is sitting in its proper mounts. The gearbox mounts are copied from Nick Jones' Vitesse, but he welded brackets to the chassis, whereas mine bolt to the main rails. My welding's not as good as his!The hardest part of the job was modifying the speedo's right angle drive. Toyota had made the speedo drive without any thought as to size - hanging under a Celica or Supra, it could be any size they wanted. Not so here - it had to be shortened to fit inside the chassis rail. Once dismantled, I could see where a millimetre could be saved here and there, and it's about 8mm narrower than stock. The result is that it has about 5mm clearance from the chassis - which didn't need any chopping or welding to fit it It's a bugger to remove though - the driveshaft has to be removed so that the gearbox can be jacked up enough for the drive to wriggle out. Everything in this car is a tight fit. Case in point: now the gearbox is in place, it's obvious that it's touching the inside of the tunnel on the left hand side. The solution will be to remove the H-frame, peel back its covering and file back the alloy in that spot. About 4mm should do it. The tunnel can then be reshaped to provide just enough clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phwoar Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Looks like you could "adjust" the tunnel a couple of millimetres without changing the "H" support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Maybe, but it's pretty tight. I can also move the gearbox slightly to the right by shimming the left hand mount, but that'll rduce clearance for the speedo drive. For all the problems with the gearbox's tight fit, it still has a lovely feel to the gear change, and should be plenty strong enough. It should be worth the wee nips and tucks to squeeze it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Another few days at home, a few more jobs done, or half done, or at least started...Made some simple brackets to mount the oil cooler. Still need to mount the thermostat and get some hoses made.Cut holes in the rear portion of the gearbox tunnel until it fitted over the Supra box. Next break - make some new bulges to fill in the holes!Started the Megasquirt MS3-Pro installation. This may take a while...And so time to cover her up again and go back to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 As I spend about eight hours a day in the man cave when I'm not away working, I made an effort to tidy up a bit. It started when I couldn't find a plug, and quickly snowballed. The only flaw is that the beer fridge is still empty 🤔 The camp chair gets a lot of use.One thing I finally got around to doing was getting my Grandfather's 'Courtenay' 1930s valve radio fixed. It needed all the capacitors and resistors changed, a new speaker cone, a new tuner cord, power cord, dial bulbs and several short circuits fixed. All that took the repairer several days, and cost $178 - which is astonishingly cheap. The case still needs to be stripped and revarnished - a job for next break perhaps, and I found some speaker fabric that looks similar to the original. But now, work on the GT6 is accompanied by the gentle hum of valves and ABC National. It sounds just as I remember when I was a lad, visiting my Grandfather's house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Nice that you had Grandpa's radio fixed Nick. Appreciate your sentiments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phwoar Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Ichthyosaur? Last week's roast? I generally tend to throw decent sized bones out for the dogs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CP72 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 NickNice garage with a great assortment of stuff... But go and buy some beer to fill the fridge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 The Dodge chassis and icthyosaur bones found at the same level.....? Be impressive if you could restore the icthyosaur.My speedo angle drive was made from a broken Triumph one, the nut from a Supra speedo cable and some random bits from my oddments trays. I didn't really expect it to work, but it did and still does. If it does give up, it will be a problem. I'd probably go electronic and use the traction control sensor.Looking at the mounts your gearbox sits higher than mine. I "massaged" the lips on the chassis rails a little with a big hammer.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 My GT6's brain transplant is well underway.The basic wiring - power feeds, relays and fuses - is done. The MS3-Pro unit is mounted in the passenger footwell. It's pretty safe from being kicked, but I'll install a panel in front of it anyway. The MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor is mounted beside the 'brain', mostly because that seemed an ideal location. It's easy to access but tucked out of the way, and not cluttering up the engine bay. The extra length of vacuum hose apparently doesn't matter. The crank position sensor is wired up. One day I'll add a camshaft position sensor, but it's not needed yet. The ignition driver module is mounted on a heat sink and wired up. That means the ignition side is finished.I don't have inlet or exhaust manifolds yet, so can't connect up injectors, throttle position sensor, wideband O2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor or inlet air temperature sensor. I've tried powering up the 'brain' and connecting it to the laptop, but have only had limited success. The fuel pump runs (although I've removed its fuse as the pump shouldn't run dry) so something's happening, but the laptop can't 'see' the MS3 unit. Possibly it won't work until the rest of the sensors are connected. If it still won't wake up, I'll have to open the brain and check that its fuses are OK. At least the wiring diagram was easy to follow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Nick,the brain should talk to the laptop without any sensors.are you using an rs232 to usb adapter ?MS seems to "like" a limited number of adapter types, and not all the generic ones.Most places selling MS recommend a certain type - its worth buying the one suggested, or find an old laptop with a rs232 port Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 The MS3 Pro comes with a serial port and a USB port. I've tried both ways, USB and with a serial adapter, and no go, Tunerstudio can't detect a device. Something to tinker with tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Quoted from Nick Moore The MS3 Pro comes with a serial port and a USB port. I've tried both ways, USB and with a serial adapter, and no go, Tunerstudio can't detect a device. Something to tinker with tomorrow... Really really silly question then, you have checked there is volts and ground at the MS ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Fuel pump doing a 2s priming run when ECU powered up is a positive sign - this should happen.I was going to suggest what Mike already suggested. 232 -> USB adaptors can be very fussy (ones with FTD chipset usually work). Inclined to suspect a comms problem, but checking the supply voltage and decent earth as Mike also suggests (not at all silly!) is a good first check.Good luck.....Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Mike was right. After a good night's sleep, I went back through the wiring loom with a multimeter. The dedicated Megasquirt power supply relay was clicking, but the Megasquirt wasn't getting any power. Turns out that the relay has a small fuse holder, and I'd removed the fuse when installing it. So glad it was something simple.Once powered up, the laptop could see the Megasquirt just fine. I've configured its settings for the temperature sensors, the injector flow rates and the ignition module. That's about all I can do without an inlet manifold. On to the next job - plumbing up the fuel lines.Thanks Mike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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