JimEB Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 Hello 🙂I keep reading that rebuilding a rear hub is a job for pros, but I'm sure that folk here must've done it successfully! The left one on my PI feels fine, but is rumbling at high speed...What kit and specific advice would one need?Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 I've got some saloon shafts knocking around Jim if you want to save the fuss of rebuilding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed_h Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Doing rear hubs is not something to take on casually, but a determined person with some workshop experience can be successful. This might help you decide whether to take it on:http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-36/TR6-36.htmlEd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Hi Folks, not sure about which hubs your are referring to..However if they are anything like the TR hubs do remember that after you replace the bearings, seals, crush tube etc you still have a 50 year old stub axle.These do breakIt is not fail safe (although a good design within its working lifeThey can't be inspected - even when the axle is laying on the bench - the cracking mode/material is too rapid.DO NOT fit refurb'd hubs unless you know that the axle is new.The failure is age relatedFat tyres, kerbing, uprated shocks etc have no detrimental effect - it is age.Roger (tin hat in place) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Hello all, a couple of comments on the link in post 2-3.He doesn't say but using a big hammer on the puller jacking screw once it is wound up really tight is a big help, a couple of good raps, then tighten more if it will, eventually it will release, usually violently.He thinks that using the studs to pull on isn't any better than a three legged puller. I would disagree as the pullers only engage on the rim, the studs are closer in and I seem to remember that they are also a little thicker at the back where the head of the stud fits?Any bearing assembly that is being greased as per his mod needs a vent hole so excess grease can escape, a fully filled bearing housing without a vent will overheat, generally space should be left in a sealed bearing housing.Good luck if you decide to have a go Jim.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimEB Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Rapidly coming to the conclusion that I don't have the kit/time to attempt this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ed_h Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Quoted from piman He thinks that using the studs to pull on isn't any better than a three legged puller. Alec--The article comes to the exact opposite conclusion--pulling from the studs is far superior to pulling from the rim of the flange, for the reasons you cite.Also, the hub certainly isn't air (or grease) tight. Any internal pressure should easily vent through the bearings and seals. Still, it's best not to over-grease.Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Hello Ed,It was this " I don't believe a thicker puller flange prevents bending at all." that was why I made that comment.A seal is a seal not a pressure relief device. Far simple to drill a second vent hole. Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Quoted from piman It was this " I don't believe a thicker puller flange prevents bending at all." that was why I made that comment. But he immediately follows that statement with a comment that it's still pulling on the studs, so he clearly wasn't comparing against a 3-leg type. What that quote addresses was a claim that beefing up the same design of puller magically reduces stress on the bits the puller doesn't attach to, which seems reasonable to query. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Hello Rob, Ok, perhaps I put the wrong interpretation on it?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 I looked long and hard at this when refurbing the rear suspension and sticky shafts got exchange units from j paddocks they are now £210 incl the 100 surcharge no troubles so far and polly bushes a good clean and regrease the slip joints has cured the roll torque twitch pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Hi Pete, are the 2000 hubs the same/similar to the TR4A/5/6 hubs with back to back taper bearings and a supposed 0.002 - 0.004 end float.If they are, has yours got the end float.I purchased two new hubs from a big TR parts supplier that build there own. They look good and they run very well indeed. I have done a good 8000 miles since AprilHowever they have no detectable end float. Using the method in the ST workshop manual it is not possible to see end float.The builders have had no luck in achieving or detect end float.It would be interesting to see if Paddocks has this end float. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 as far as i could see they are common across the range the changes being circlip or staked UJ cups.they come poly wrapped from i guess from a supplier elsewhere. used JP due to cheaper , + quick surcharge returns float did concern me the 'new' hubs seemed to have pre load, quite damped to turn , anyway theyre on and done about 1500 m without any side effects showing so far . give it another 10 years an we will know the answer if it gets that farand were all running direct drive electric rubbish Grrrr!!! with no shafts to ponder.Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Hi Pete, mine were quite stiff to turn from new. There should be NO pre-load - it should (in theory) be loose but only just. As mentioned above 0.002" and a gnats.Were your hubs completely new or do they still have the original stub axle in.Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 being exchange i guess they are 'reconditioned' certainly the faces had been skimmed. I often feel i should drop them off and see how they have lets say'bedded in ' but afraid thats a job way down the list , but with no rumbles whine or whatever Ive left them alone I nearly took them off to fit the new stag handbrake expanders , but just released the hsg to get the strut through the gap and fight the springs on. the hand brake is still wonderful , they are identical except the bell crank is 15mm longer and being available much cheaper than 2000 ones Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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