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Hub bearing spacers


Nick Jones

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Following on from the thread in the Stag section ......
Sorry , link no longer available
.........I've just taken delivery of a pair of "Shacktune" bearing spacers for the front hubs of my PI.  These will let me sort out the play issues I've had once and for all and reduce brake pad knock-back into the bargain.

On my desk less than 36 hours from ordering and supplied as a comprehensive kit, complete with a good selection of shims, detailed instructions and even a pair of split pins.   Very happy with that 🙂  Still available via ebay while stocks last.....

Only downside is that it's pissing down sideways in Somerset just now, which is severely offsetting my enthusiasm for fitting them as I can't get the car in the garage at present.......

Cheers

Nick

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Quoted from Lord Sorbington
Front wheel bearing change on a Citroen Saxo today.  I was amazed how huge the Citroen bearing was compared to the Triumph ones!


They're not designed to be serviced and being fwd should have to last the life of the car.Danny this predictiv text on my misses android phone.

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Ferny.. The nearest thing to herald bearings is the TR 2 to 6 fronts.
They use exactly the same bearing as herald, spit..
TR enterprises sell the ones for the TRs..
I would imagine that like the 2000 spacers to GT6 ...  that the TR to Herald will be slightly too long..
BUT... too long is good, you can lathe them down to suit your hub..

I was thinking of producing the Herald/spit spacers.....
But i can only deal with a few projects at a time..
  James

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Quoted from ferny
I get knock-back on autosolo's which isn't much fun when you have to stop quickly and find a very long pedal.

In the mean time you can always do a safety tap before braking.  Maybe not so ideal on such short courses but it is the way most racing drivers do it.

Can someone explain the exact idea behind this spacer?  I can't seem to get my head around its purpose and how it works.

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It's a tube that goes between the inner races of the inboard and outboard bearings.  There are shims so that you can set the precise separation to give the correct bearing play and still nip the whole inner assembly up tight.

This means that instead of floating separately on the stub axle, the two inner races are clamped together solidly.  This will prevent the inner races turning on the stub axles (and eventually wearing it) and also stiffens the stub axle, reducing flexing and resulting pad knock-back.

MGBs have this arrangement as standard I believe......  

This is the Revington TR offering, which may well be the same as the TR Enterprises one.  He says also suitable Spitfire, which should mean Herald as well.......  

http://www.revingtontr.com/sho.....p;ProductID=RTR3463K

Nick

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Thats interesting..  the revington ones are listed as spit as well as TR...  Differant stub axle..  ?????
Kerching.. £70 .. From revington.
TR enterprises £42 +vat
there is a good picture here    http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=40&product_id=87

which shows how they would go on the 2000/stag..
James

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Quoted from StagNL

In the mean time you can always do a safety tap before braking.  Maybe not so ideal on such short courses but it is the way most racing drivers do it.


Yeah, it's not ideal on a short course! I only get it when going very fast through very tight bends. There was only one point on one course when it happened severely on the last autosolo - which happened to be right at the end! Not entertaining when it happens without warning as it makes you look a right tit. 😀

I always double tap in the Herald out of habit on the road. But that's because I was driving around with a duff bearing I always meant to get round to changing. When I did about five of the rollers where in half. It wasn't noisy at all, or old. I knew it was going from the way the car felt.


James - I was going to have a Marcus (tinker) on the lathe and knock some up from scratch. Need to get a spare assembly to get the measurements from but luckily know a man with a barn full of bits. I'm sure he won't mind me borrowing one. If I manage to get it done before you I'll pass on any measurements I have?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Little update on this and some extra info.

Got bored waiting for a dry day so I could fit these to the PI so thought I'd see if they fit the Vitesse (uses same bearings) - and they do 🙂

Took about 30 mins to do one side, but now I've got the hang of it I reckon the next one will take about 20.

So these spacers should be good for 2000/2500 saloon and estate, Stag, Vitesse 2L & Mk2 and all GT6.

Best order some more for the car I actually bought the first lot for!

Cheers

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, having received a second set I fitted them to the PI yesterday.

Being lazy I managed to fit both sides without removing the wheels.  You do have to jack the car up though!

Was able to winkle out the dust cap with a pair of screwdrivers, remove the split pin and undo the nut before removing the washer and bearing with a magnetic probe


Fit the spacer tube


and shims


This is the only fiddly bit really as you need to spend some time experimenting with shim thicknesses to get the free play you want.  I elected to just eliminate all free play.  A good selection of shims is supplied for this.

Then torque up the nut to the figure specified in the instructions, fit new split pin and dustcap.  I also added a smear of fresh grease to bearing before final fitting.


This seems to have shortened brake pedal travel slightly and the hubs remain cool even after 40 fast miles.

Cheers

Nick

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Am I thinking right, that this is basicly the same as the Roto rear end set up then.
some thing which alot of folk complain aboot.!!!

Questionee, when you fit a new wheel bearing, then it will have to be set tight!!! , as when it works in,it wont  need adjusting, this why roto  has a pree load.

if set slack, then its back to original, which means shims to be took out, correct,!!!

Some one care to eludicate on this thinking.

M

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It's the same as the roto bearing (or any other taper roller bearing pair) in that respect.  When fitting new bearings then a small amount of pre-load will prevent play appearing as the bearing wears in.  However, unlike the roto rear, access is easy, so it's probably smarter not try and pre-load new bearings too much and risk damage.  You can adjust them easily enough later on if play appears.

One other important difference between the roto rear and this; the support tube and shims are between the bearing races and tightening the hub nut significantly increases the strength of the assembly.  The roto bearing has no inner support tube and the shims are outside the bearing assembly.

This video covering MGB front wheel bearings (which have this arrangement from the factory) might clarify thinks a bit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYIXZtnIiw

Nick

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Little update on this and some extra info.

Got bored waiting for a dry day so I could fit these to the PI so thought I'd see if they fit the Vitesse (uses same bearings) - and they do 🙂

Took about 30 mins to do one side, but now I've got the hang of it I reckon the next one will take about 20.

So these spacers should be good for 2000/2500 saloon and estate, Stag, Vitesse 2L & Mk2 and all GT6.

Best order some more for the car I actually bought the first lot for!

Cheers

Nick


Hope you are right Nick. Just ordered a set of saloon ones intended for Gt6 then I noticed he has kits listed for Gt6 Vitesse.
ANYWAY, If they need machined so be it that's what I have the lathe for.

Laurence

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  • 7 months later...
  • 7 months later...

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