Hub bearing spacers

[ferny]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIU.....;hash=item20e3090e4c

These?

[Greeks]

Quoted from Nick Jones

Would pictures help?

There's a video link at the top of the page  

Nick

Oh, that makes sense, even to me. Why you didn't post that link earlier I'll never know 😉

[Freebird]

[quote=Nick_Jones]
Then torque up the nut to the figure specified in the instructions, fit new split pin and dustcap.  I also added a smear of fresh grease to bearing before final fitting.


Hi Nick

Resurrection of an old thread here. What happens if you torque the nut up and the hole for the split pin does not align with the castellations? Keep going 'till it does or back off?

I guess it depends how close it is in either direction - answered my own question I expect....

Cheers

Glen

[JohnD]

I'll interested in Nick's thoughts.

Mine are:
Back off only as far as necessary.
But if you want, drill another hole in the stub, at right angles to the first.
One hole gives you a choice of +/- 60 degrees.
Two holes means backing off a maximum of  30 .
John

[Nick Jones]

Is that with or without spacers Glen?  With, I'd probably go for tighten, within reason.  Without, I'd back it off.  Your,"whichever is closest" has merit also.

Most of stubs have two holes anyway so you shouldn't have to go far either way.

Nick

[josh18]

In the aircraft world they give us a min and max torque range. For castelated nuts we start at the min torque and you have until the max torque to line the split pin hole up. Sometimes it needs to be tweaked a bit but the consensus seems to be that over torqued is better than under torqued.

[Nick Jones]

Quoted from josh18

In the aircraft world they give us a min and max torque range. For castelated nuts we start at the min torque and you have until the max torque to line the split pin hole up. Sometimes it needs to be tweaked a bit but the consensus seems to be that over torqued is better than under torqued.

Your torque wrenches are properly calibrated too, no doubt.

Nick

[Pete Lewis]

just cant see the need for a design change for lots of £££s to cure a specification thats lasted well for 40 years and more

whilst small chassis cars have a spec for float 0.002"-0.008" the big saloon manual does not just  states do nut to 5lbft and back off to align nearest pin hole

at 5lbs ft and back  a pin hole would give about zero float.  but ensuers no pre load  (which would soon cook the outer bearing)

Pete

[Jonny-Jimbo]

For normal road use, no, it's not really needed. But for pressing on motoring it makes sense, and is a well known and practiced method of improving bearing life etc.

[sparky_spit]

I've fitted these to my Spitfire.  In the instructions from James it mentioned that the spacers are correct for Timken bearings and that NTN Japan bearings are not necessarily the same dimensions.  I have NTN Japan bearings, new just before the last 10CR, and new stub axles, so well run-in but not worn.  I found that on one side I needed no shims and got a perfect fit and miniscule endfloat.  On the other side it was too tight so I took 5 thou off the spacer using the lathe and ended up using a 3 thou shim to get a perfect fit.

Just for info really should somebody else be using NTN Japan bearings.