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Am I underestimating this (newby RBRR entrant)


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I was going to recommend fitting Cibie 7" replacement headlamps.  Nearly all the replacement lamps I have seen either enable a good dip or a good main setting but not both.  Cibies allow both dip and main to be good.  However you have ordered what you have ordered.

I would recommend fitting high performance bulbs not standard halogens.  Halfords uprated bulbs age good value for money, buy the best you can afford, but if price is not a problem PIAA make brilliant bulbs.  Their Platinum Competition White range has an H4 bulb that draws 60/80w but produces the equivalent light of 140/165w.  Almost as good as HID.

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Sealed beams are fine. There were some in the Dolomite last time and even though they were set to illuminate the underside of aircraft and the bottom of hedges rather than the road it worked alright. Although I was asked how I was able to see the road and if I was using "the force" at one point by Bill. Their only issue is the space needed to carry spares and that's the only reason I'd change if I were you.

As to the alternator and water pump etc, only replace them now if you planned to replace them soon anyway. And if you do, carry the originals in the boot as that way you'll have known good replacements. As said already, new stuff can fail just as quickly and easily as stuff which has been on the car for years.

In general my advice would be to do what you planned to do within the next year now, get some good miles on it so it all settles down and proves itself to be reliable and then get on with it.

:)

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Eagerbeaver

Everything in moderation and do what you feel comfortable with - I've done most of the RBRR in a 1960s Standard Atlas van - no HID headlamps, no reclining seats, no heater to speak of, no seat belts, no acceleration - BIG fun. OK we welded a wheel bearing with only 200 miles to go and ended up on flatbed but I think we showed it can be done in a real period motor. I've also done the event in a v8 saloon, a GT6 and Courier Van. This time round it'll be in a TR6 that's been asleep for 20 years.

Things to think about, - you car will not get any rest, it won't cool down and it will be running pretty much all of those 48 hours. Ancillaries like the alternator, fan and water pump will of course be running too so make sure they are up to the job. Stuff like windscreen wipers may also be on the go for much of that time. It can rain in Scotlandshire, a lot!

Pack spares that you are prepared to fit at the side of the road in less than say an hour, realistically if something major goes bang, you will be out of time v quickly so although you may think you can fix it you're only avoiding the recovery wagon. Be sensible about this, many people do give up too easily but when you're 32 hours in and knackered the decision to get recovered is usually quite easy.

As a minimum give the car a general service, check fan belt, fluid levels, brake pads etc. Clean and rainex / mistex the windscreen. Pack minimal tools and spares - don't overload the car with ballast. Include spare water, petrol, oil, brake fluid, a torch. I find that it's better to have the means to make a fix - wire, nuts, bolts, gaffer tape, chewing gum etc because you can't prepare for everything with specific spares. Little stuff like bulbs, ignition set, a spark plug, are about as much as I take - being a PI car I do pack a specific PI kit, spare injector, fuel and vac diaphragms, datum track link piece, and a spare fuel pump but all that fits in a small case and is very self contained. I also take a small plastic sheet or disposable rain poncho to either wear if it's hammering down or throw on the ground to work on.

Above all just be happy with your prep and don't be too influenced by others - there will always be the entrants who take a spare gearbox, diff, four poster lift, crypton tuner - don't try and emulate that!

One year I spent weeks preparing my car, drove to pick up my co-driver and broke the crank on the way there. We peeled the stickers off my car, put them on his GT6, did an oil change on the GT and off we went - the car literally had 10 minutes prep and had never done a RBRR before. We got round without issue and had a great run - you don't need to agonise over this, it's just a drive round the countryside afterall  ;)

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Heed the words of Ferny!  Drive you car at night and in the rain if possible.  The MOT tester said my lights were adjusted correct but!   No Way No How!   Peter and I drove it in a dense fog and rain and we KNOW where they are aimed!   Dollyroo has been checked again and again passed it's MOT for this year and the lights still don't show the road ahead.  However you wont miss any Hedge Hogs!

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2010 was my first RBRR, as Jason said we packed the full kit of items to 'bodge' stuff. Gaffa tape, tyraps, cable, crimps and crimpers, generic flick switches, bulbs, sealed beams, alternator (a common failure), wipers, hose clamps and some spare hoses, fan and PAS belts. A small but well stocked tool box, you know the general spanner sizes so take two of both and a 3/8 socket set. Spare fluids and fuel, small trolley jack and an axle stand (very important!). Large waterproof HiViz jackets if you have access to them are great. Torch, warning triangle etc.

Our estate is as close to an everyday car as you can get, around 7000miles a year (average) used all year round, last time the o/d played up. I couldn't find the spare generic switch so extended the cables out from the console and we connected and disconnected lucar crimps to operate it. So don't forget where you have packed these bits. I did this 'bodge' as Dad drove down through Scotland and the generic switch now lives under the centre console just in case. Obviously I found the switch once we were home.

Again as Jason said, don't overload the car with things that you can't realistically sort at the side of the road in an hour and enjoy it. I'm much happier doing the trip in an old Triumph than I would be in a new car and it's techno minefield of potential problems.

RainX is your friend!!!!!!!

Colin

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timbancroft61 wrote:
Totally agree with Jason and Colin.

Anyone doing the event in a GT6 will know where I am coming from.

All the parts one needs can be fitted in a small bag.


Make it a good quality plastic bag though Tim, you never know when it may come in handy ;)

Colin.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had an experience like Jason's, a herald estate I prepared failed on the way to London, we went back and changed it for a 2000 estate that I had just bought, just checked the oil and water, still on 25 year old tyres (not recommended lol) and it sailed around with just a dodgy starter showing up. I have had a lot of work done on my current car, but it was showing signs of wear so hopefully I have future proofed it somewhat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

For the last few weeks I've been doing my best to break my car. I've driving it daily, usually the fastest car on the motorway. Nearly got taken out on a roundabout today by some numpty who saw and old car and assumed he could pull out but I was in front of him before he was on the roundabout so the slightest kiss didn't even leave a scratch.

The one schoolboy error I've realised is that I've not changed plugs in a while and they are beyond their best. Off to get some in the morning.

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I had almost forgotten that I have been keeping a log of retirements from events for a while now.

Not complete by any means but here is information from 5 RBRRs for cars that have actually retired from the event

Transmission     6
Accident             5
Engine             3
Electrical             2
Suspension     1
Cooling             1
Crew error             1
Brakes               1
Total Result     20

To put that into perspective, there were 9 retirements out of 115 entries in 2010.

13 TR2-6 models were entered in 2010 and only one failed to finish (with a failed brake master cylinder) so that's a success rate of 92.3% :)

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