molten Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 HelloI stripped the MC piston assembly out this morning ready to install new MC repair seals kits. When I removed the piston, there was a lot of rust coloured sludge (no doubt rust contaminated brake fluid). So I left soaking in some clean DOT4 fluid to clean off. When cleaned off the spring, thimble etc all "appear" to be ok to re-use but......As the rust must have come off the parts - will they rust again in new fluid? As it will be a while before i fill the system, will they simply rust again until fluid id put in the MS?Having said that, no real reason why it cannot be filled now after checking all unions for tight fit!Would you re-use the old parts or get new?Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Can you post a pic of the parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Here is some pics.Thimble looks to be marked - either due to corrosion but looks like casting/press marks. Spring looks as though the paint has come of (if it had any on?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 all look fine to me. i would rebuild and it should be fine with fresh fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 If no breakages the `operating parts` , are OK to reuse as the most important parts to replace are the sealsJust fit new seals The sludge you mentioned can be from the part of the cylinder that sees no movement of parts eg the seals only move part of the length of the operation , so c..p and muck and bullets congregate in th end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marktheherald Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Having experienced breakage of the spring on at least three occasions due to rust, I would replace it. I keep a spare in the car, 'cos when it goes, no clutch or brake! However it has always been the clutch one that has gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 cheers gentsDespite the sludge, the parts incl spring do seem to be strong with no thinning in the spring.Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Try compressing the spring to ensure that there aren't any areas where it's work-hardened. The spring can look fine, but with a section that doesn't compress. Failure mode will be brakes progressively locking on, not good. This usually happens where the pedal return spring has been broken, so the master cylinder spring has been worked harder in supporting the pedal,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Checked that Bill and all sems fineBillCould I trouble you for some pointers on bulkhead grommets?As seen in the other thread, I am struggling to identify what comes through the bulkhead via which gri#ommet and where??My spit was missing most of this when I got it so have nothing to reference.Could you (or anyone) help?ThanksScott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 2597 wrote:As seen in the other thread, I am struggling to identify what comes through the bulkhead via which gri#ommet and where??Lots of variation depending on year, with some blanks needed for equipment which wasn't installed for the UK market. If you can take a couple of pictures of your bulkhead and post them here, I'll annotate them with what goes where,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Hi Bill I have attached a couple of pics.I got the wiper motor stuff sorted but the three holes left of where the heater bolts to (2 above and 1 below) I presume to be1) choke cable2) heater cable3) washer fluid pipeAm I correct here?The 2 holes on the level deck in front of them I think may be blanks.On the (pic 274) photo, there is a hole on left of battery tray???Also, above the chassis rails (on the bulkhead) on both sides there is a hole approx 30mm just before the panel returns to g/box opening (elongated oval on the right is the main harness i know.Thanks for this billCheersScottI have 2 blind nuts where I think a electric washer pump will go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Here's the righthand side annotated. If you can get a better image of the left side I'll do the same with that, if I remember I'll photograph the green car I'm working on tomorrow,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Thanks again BillWill get a better pic and post it tomorrow.Thanksscott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 Hi BillSome pics attached. Hope you can help..1st pic: hole next to main harness & hole next to battery trayCheersscott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 is this one just slotted in the top elongated slot and left loose over the hole beneath?Much obliged Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Scott I think you'll find the hole where your middle finger is,is where the original brake pipe retaining clip would have been.The slotted thing is a rubber flap with a thicker piece at the top to slot into the groove......anyone got one as I need one :(The 2 small holes are for the washer pump.Looking good mate!Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Alex wrote:The slotted thing is a rubber flap with a thicker piece at the top to slot into the groove......anyone got one as I need one :(These were fitted to Stags too, so try the usual Stag breakers, Martin Dimmick, Les, etc etcmike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 mikew wrote:These were fitted to Stags too, so try the usual Stag breakers, Martin Dimmick, Les, etc etcmikeMike would that mean that they are also on mk2 saloons?Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Alex wrote:Mike would that mean that they are also on mk2 saloons?AlexYes there are two fitted to the plenum on Mk2smike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Hi AlexFortunately I kept hold of mine.Does anyone hace any tips to fit the new gaitor rubber over the master cyl?Just cannot seem to get it to fit with MC etc in in place. There must be a knack to it. Will try softening the new PVC in hot water but this is a pain. Maybe rubber ones are easier??Cheersscott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 2597 wrote:Does anyone hace any tips to fit the new gaitor rubber over the master cyl?I use Autoglym's Vinyl & Rubber care product as a lubricant for this kind of thing. I've never needed it for this particular job though, there's more than one manufacturer of gaiters which may have a bearing on the ease of fitting. Equally, who made the end cover for the master cylinder is also a factor.I'm just annotating a couple of images, to follow.....Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I'm not 100% sure about this one, I 'think' it's the location of the electric washer pump for markets which were using one at that time. The car I'm working on has the same holes which are redundant.Meanwhile, the two on the front face of the LH bulkhead both take blanking plugs in the home market. That lower plug is useful as a location to bring though a capillary tube when fitting a (non-original) oil pressure gauge,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 heraldcoupe wrote:That lower plug is useful as a location to bring though a capillary tube when fitting a (non-original) oil pressure gauge,Cheers,Bill.Cheers BillThis comment may prove very usefull as I recently cracked my new dash where the indicator light goes to the upper right of the steering wheel. If when fitted the bezel doesnt hide it then I will be opening up and fitting oil presure guage here.As usual Bill - many thanksScott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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