Twincarb Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Can anyone say off the top of there heads what the thread size is which hold's the rear hub assembly in place on the spitfire 1500. I need to get mine re-cut as on closer inspection the thread is a little bit screwed! I have passed it onto a mechanic friend who can do it on his lunch-break but would be good if I can say what the size is..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Rear hub to axle shaft is 5/8" UNF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 Thanks for the quick reply will pass the details on.... fingers crossed it will re-cut ok and not be dead in the ground.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Are you sure you want to risk you car doing that? :-/A new half shaft is about £65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 2 of the threads have got some damage on them which is why it is worth trying to see if it is repairable. The guy who is doing the job will give an honest opinion if he says not to use it I wont. As an alternative I guess that some extreme welding ie welding through the existing thread to give a solid shaft once again and then putting it through the lathe to bring it back to size and then cutting an entire new thread is another option. The only company I know who would take that job on (not through madness but experience in what he is doing would probably charge about the cost of a new one anyhow!)At the moment it's costing me a packet of biscuits (chocolate ones!) for my mate to re cut it and then give an honest opinion on whether it is going to be fit for purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 If its just a couple of threads damaged, a die nut or a thread file should sort it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I am hoping that is all that it will be. cause you can't knock the cost of a packet of biscuits (even chocolate ones) for a favour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 6059 wrote:2 of the threads have got some damage on them which is why it is worth trying to see if it is repairable. The guy who is doing the job will give an honest opinion if he says not to use it I wont. As an alternative I guess that some extreme welding ie welding through the existing thread to give a solid shaft once again and then putting it through the lathe to bring it back to size and then cutting an entire new thread is another option. The only company I know who would take that job on (not through madness but experience in what he is doing would probably charge about the cost of a new one anyhow!)At the moment it's costing me a packet of biscuits (chocolate ones!) for my mate to re cut it and then give an honest opinion on whether it is going to be fit for purpose. Welding on a half shaft?.......that affects the tensile strength...........which have been known to snap....I`d prefer a new shaftIf you have never had a shaft snap and hit the deck ,then you cant imagine the shock horror and face turning white.....take my first hand word Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 I realise that the tensile strength would potentially change however as the metal is being replaced and it would be forming the new metal essentially the old and the new metal would be formed into one. The company I would take it to would either guarantee the work would be suitable for the application or would simply advise they are not prepared to do it. The thread would be cut into the newly formed metal if failure was going to occur I would expect it to happen when the initial torquing is done while taking it up to 163Nm.Knowing that motorcycle drive shafts can be repaired in a similar way I would have thought that it's a possible solution. Just got to wait and find out if the mechanic says it's repairable first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 6059 wrote:Knowing that motorcycle drive shafts can be repaired in a similar way I would have thought that it's a possible solution. Bear in mind that on your Spitfire the driveshaft is not just for transmitting torque but is also an integral part of the suspension; responsible for transmiting sideloads into and away from the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Thje actual heating will affect the tensile strength of the axle, not just the bit you have welded,DON'T DO IT !!Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRooster Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 nang wrote:Thje actual heating will affect the tensile strength of the axle, not just the bit you have welded,DON'T DO IT !!Tony.I agree, if the shaft is knackered its knackered get another one.RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Still waiting to find out if the thread was savable bust by recutting it..... But am taking on-board the above comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Depends on the damage.If the damage only on the start of the tread, then a two piece die, fitted on the inner, undamaged part, and wound backwards would be safe, as long as there is a nut width of undamaged thread where the nut will sit. (There are purpose made thread restoring tools designed to work from the same direction.)If the damage is due to a past attempt to remove the hub with the aid of a heavy hammer the pitch could well have been changed for a considerable distance due to compaction as well as the diameter and alignment so the axle should be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 The damaged threads are 3 or 4 down from the beginning and appear to last for only 2 threads. I am only guessing but whoever had the hubs off in the past did the damage while removing the original nut or after it was removed.When I got my hands on it there were 2 nuts on it a newer one closer to the hub assembly and an older on on the outside held on by about 3 turns. as shown in the image below.The newer nut was just spinning and appears to have been stripped when it was turned down onto the Hub hence why the other one held it into place. I should have taken a photo to add on here. I checked the photo's I have but the point of focus isn't the threads when it is returned I will take a clear shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 You could try just putting the stripped nut in position and using it as a guide to file off any protruding thread and re-assess the situation.This would show if there is sufficient undamaged thread left as judged by screwing NEW nut on after cleaning up the first threads which will have burrs from the filing. The "new" nut you took off will have damaged threads so not suitable for the test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Get a new shaft.Do you want to risk that flange coming off (with the wheel) whilst you are cornering? :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 DOO not weld, even a wee tack, will make it break, I Know.as the dust cap got a tack,just a tack, it snapped within a week..thread file is best bet.not thread file, then a die nut, NOT a die, as this will remove meteal.to get metal to be spot on, you could put the Die nut on, take it as far doon as it will go,and give the end a few wacks wid a ammer, to squash threads up near the ends.., then when DIe nut has come back up, it will reform the threads, making the missing metal re form.Ive done it on a few items, where threads have become very worn / slack, and it works OK.But as the ends are not holding the actual nut, I would nae bother, just thread file it.UNLESS, the nut has been cross threaded all the way doon.!!!then you need to re tap doon to next size.the 2 nuts on maybe cos they ar,nt lockers, like oringinal, so2 are acting acting as a locker OR, the thread is compleatly gone, and they diff threads, ye wont no till they off.worried about em coming off whenst putting back, put some thread lock on, or drill an split pin ends.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 ...and everyone is overlooking the torque setting of an axle nut.....100 to 110 ft Lbs .....I would `nt trust a re cut threadtake my word for it .....I had a bad experience, and was not far short of this.... when it drops... no brakes etchttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvQK4TqkeRM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Yeah, I am very much with Mr Rosso, don't bother.In fact, (very much in my opinion) why the heck are you even bothering to try and save it? It is a crucial part to the car, so any weakness will show up in short order, also it is not like they are short supply! I could understand all this messing around if they were like hens teeth, but as far as I know all the usual suspects have these in stock.Also, you are in the process of doing a full body off restoration. Why run the risk of causing potentially catastrophic damage to your pride and joy over one single part? I can understand you might wish to keep the overall costs down, but some parts should be exempt from that. Various other threads and bolts on the car can be easily re-formed or cut to a new size, but we are talking about ONE nut that is the only thing holding the wheel onto your freshly restored pride and joy!! You have done some excellent work up to now, why ruin it over one item?Again, this is all my opinion of course :)Cheers,Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 All points are being taken on-board.... I have got a replacement shaft in my shopping basket ready for the next order that I put in. Any yes the potential risk is one that isn't worth it in the long run.... It will be daunting enough taking it for the first drive when it's ready... Just got to avoid the temptation to blast it down the runway before giving it a shakedown! Promise there will be a video of the first test drive all be it in a few months down the line! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 You'll need a bearing set and a new U/J I'm afraid. Someone in your area should have access to a small car hub puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 10, 2012 Author Share Posted November 10, 2012 I am doing the bearings as a matter of course and already have the hubs off. Both sides are all stripped down with just the "dust cover" in place. The UJ's are only £10 a side so is no great problem I was considering replacing it again as a matter of course.... Essentially anything that moves on the suspension/steering side is being refreshed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James1500 Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Ive had a nut undo itself and subsequently the whole lot came off leaving me on three wheels, not a fantastic experience so I'd suggest a new shaft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensH Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 6059 wrote:All points are being taken on-board.... I have got a replacement shaft in my shopping basket ready for the next order that I put in. Any yes the potential risk is one that isn't worth it in the long run.... It will be daunting enough taking it for the first drive when it's ready... Just got to avoid the temptation to blast it down the runway before giving it a shakedown! Promise there will be a video of the first test drive all be it in a few months down the line!I did a 2000km run in 36 hours one week after finishing a nut&bolt resto on my spitfire mk 3. Very good chance to find faulty parts and dodgy repairs 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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