Alex Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 I'm in the process of rebuilding an engine for my spitfire 1500.To day I lifted out the old engine (in fact that's exactly what I did as couldn't get any help) I removed the clutch etc and found that the spring on the clutch are very loose.Do loose springs mean the clutch is shot? It appears to have life left in it although it didn't always take up drive exactly smooth ;DIf the decision is it needs replacing,can anyone recommend a source for a new quality clutch kit?I'm also thinking I should replace the engine mounts as these look like they hang down a bit under load(or is this usual?)ThanksAlex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Not taking up drive smoothly, Loose springs will be the cause.It's always a shame when Loose or broken springs happen, and the clutch friction material still has plenty of life left in it! But you will need to get a new one, as it will only get worse, with the possability of causing more damage.As for the engine mounts, if they have gone soft or are starting to perish, then put new ones on while the engine is out, easier to do it now than in a couple of months when everything is back in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 4058 wrote:Not taking up drive smoothly, Loose springs will be the cause.It's always a shame when Loose or broken springs happen, and the clutch friction material still has plenty of life left in it! But you will need to get a new one, as it will only get worse, with the possability of causing more damage.As for the engine mounts, if they have gone soft or are starting to perish, then put new ones on while the engine is out, easier to do it now than in a couple of months when everything is back in place.ThanksI thought someone would say that :-/I was hoping for "oh they all do that,just whack it back together" ;DAny clutch kits best avoided? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 We use Borg and Beck and buy from a local stockistReplacing the mounts will certainly improve on the ride eliminating vibration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Borg and Beck are very good, stick with a decent make and replace the thrust bearing whilst you are at it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 And while you're at it, check the bushes, pivot pins and linkages for wear. Try to do all you can while the 'box is out. I also fitted a remote bleeder to mine. ;)Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 bobyspit wrote:Borg and Beck are very good, stick with a decent make and replace the thrust bearing whilst you are at it!!I'm guessing you meant release bearing Rob?It does sound a bit noisy ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I thought new B&B weren't meant to be as good as old stock? Or was that LUK?Engine mounts sag over time, if it's not cracked I'd leave it. A saggy mount is better than a new one likely to split after a month. Buy some spares either way as they only take a short time to replace with the engine in situ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 ferny wrote:I thought new B&B weren't meant to be as good as old stock? Or was that LUK?Engine mounts sag over time, if it's not cracked I'd leave it. A saggy mount is better than a new one likely to split after a month. Buy some spares either way as they only take a short time to replace with the engine in situ. Pete your comment regarding mounts is exactly why I asked. My mounts don't look cracked just hang slightly.I don't want to buy more if they're then likely to fail anyway. I was also under the impression there was a few clutch brands to avoid.....ThanksAlex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I've said it all before many a time, but... I've lost all confidence in current engine mounts. I do have one home-made poly one which is untested but have been running these for a good while now;As to clutches, I'm trying to recall what a Welsh person once said to me and I'm sure it was that old B&B are far superior and that LUK are ok. I'd certainly wait for confirmation on that though! I've a feeling I only got about 20k miles out of an old B&B though (autosolo's etc and no synchromesh on 1st...) and ended up going back to the original LUK. That's now slipping as it's a small 1300 clutch fitted to a 1500 engine and has done at least five years worth of mileage in my ownership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 When B&B clutches were sold under Delphi, they took to redesigning them. Result was a design with a shorter throw, so they often release only at the very end of the slave cylinder's range of operation.The latest B&Bs seem to be back to the old style. Like other 'reputable' brands though, there's an awful lot of licence made stuff now. You may find that an unknown brand is being made alongside products that go on to have a B&B label put on them.....Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjwman Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 My Ferodo clutch disintegrated!I replaced it with LUK and it is superb! End of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Assuming your 1500 has the 20 spline clutch plate.....easy to identify tipThe B&B, Delphi and Quinton Hazell clutch plates have 4 damper coil springs in the spinner plate .The LUK plate has 5 springsFitted a LUK kit in my 1500 spit off ebay a couple of years ago and no probs so far....(LUK are oem suppliers of clutches to VW and Audi so wont go wrong)Looking around, the only LUK kit available is about 300 quid, were as the B&B either genuine rebranded or copied ones are about 60 quid and the QH are about 100 quid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2502 Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I'm sure I've read somewhere bad things about the 3 rivet friction plates and to go for either an old Borg and Beck one or a 4 rivet version to avoid the risk of shearing.Canley ones seem to have 4 from the picture. No personal experience just parroting what I've read beforehttp://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/classicclutches.html&xsl=product.xsl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I had a DElphi B&B one for the GT6 from one of the big suppliers who shall remian nameless and it had a 3 rivet friction plate in the kit. I was not too impressed but I needed to get the car back on the road at the time so I fitted it, fingers crossed it doesn't break. Laycock were always good but I think they are only available as NOS nowadays. Original fitment to GT6s were either Laycock or B&B.There are sometimes a few NOS Laycock or B&B clutches floating around on ebay sometimes that would be worth a punt. Had a look and there are only a couple of B&B NOS friction plates for a spit on there at the moment but worth keeping an eye out ibn case any come up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 The expensive LUK kit has 3 rivets:Whats the attraction with NOS old clutches? Full of harmful asbestos and from what I can remember as a kid, my dad forever doing clutch and brake jobs on his cars?I understand better workmanship 'back in the day' but I would have said more modern friction materials and R&D would make a modern clutch more desirable?? Harder modern friction materials will cause flywheel or clutch cover wear quicker I know, but the matched clutch cover will be designed to take the wear rather than the flywheel and will last sooo much longer and no harmful dust?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjwman Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 My LUK kit was £100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 My LUK kit was £45 but NOS from ebay on a lucky bidding auction.... :) I cant find a retail outlet mj but I do know you can find a bargain (Bullet mirror glasses... ;) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Borg and Beck...£45.56 + = £54.68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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