Docman Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 How much play should there be in the steering rack; I think mine might need replacing. I can twist the steering collumn about 10 degress each way (along with the splined pinion) before I see the track rod ends begin to move. I was hoping it was just a worn knuckle, but the play is in the rack, the pinion and the knuckle seem to have no play whatsoever. From prior responses received, I'm beginning to think that play in the rack is the major contributor to the car's twitchiness over bumps at speed. It also seems to wander a bit.Maybe the PO installed the solid rack mounts hoping to tighten the steering?!? It probably exacerbated the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I will be honest, the solid rack mounts seem to work very well. They were fitted to early heralds from the factory, but maybe they were regarded as too harsh? Saying that, my experiences have been totally positive with them over the past 20 years.Yes, the play in the rack may well be the issue. They are not hard work on, I have played and made a worn one OK again (probably as good as many reconditioned ones??) and most parts are available.Most play is usually in the lower column joint, but if yours is OK then the rack needs investigating. The outer ball joints can be felt for play by pulling about on the rack steering arms. The brass(?) bushes in the rack tube can wear too. The pinnion can be adjusted, have a look in the workshop manual (online if you do not have one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I would say that the solid rack mounts wear your rack/ball joints out quicker. The shocks from the road go straight through the ball joints and rack causing accelerated wear. I tried the solid ones and they were a touch tighter on the steering yet I felt every bump and jolt through the steering wheel. Blue polybush rack mounts all the way for me.Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 FYI Docman: If your rack is worn to the point that it may need to be replaced, the word I read here is that Spitfire racks are quicker, although a little higher effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docman Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 rotoflex wrote:FYI Docman: If your rack is worn to the point that it may need to be replaced, the word I read here is that Spitfire racks are quicker, although a little higher effort.Bill - With my 13" steering wheel (better ingress/egress) and wider meats, I've already increased my steering effort enough (can't have the biceps get too big). Besides, jumping from my modern into the GT6 and back, the steering is about as quick as I care to have it. I find myself overcorrecting every time I drive it.Someone in another blog stated if I have play in the rack, I can turn the pinion upside down. I'm having a hard time visualizing this unless the pinion gear is a separate piece that is fitted to the splined pinion shaft. If so, how is it accessed? Is the pinion gear a softer metal from the rack making IT the wear (and serviceable) component?And what (if any) is "acceptable" play in the rack? I don't doubt that the solid mounts compounded with sparce grease (the rack took quite a lot once I inserted the Zerks nipple) has accelerated the rack wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Don't bother, just replace with a new one. You also never know you may already have a spitfire steering rack??? How annoyed would you be if in 2 months something else broke in the rack??? Take it off take it apart etc etc. Or!!!! Replace and be done for the next 10 years??? Think about it???Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehanko Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 from memory when i looked at steering racks they were quite cheap??? £60 comes to mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Recon one at James Paddocks £35 ! ??) that's cheap! (Don't know if he also sells LHD ones .. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Some recon steering racks have a habit of being mostly "con" and not much "re"The pinion is tightened to eliminate play at the straight ahead position, and as off center isn't worn, the rack gets very tight.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docman Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 thescrapman wrote: The pinion is tightened to eliminate play at the straight ahead position, and as off center isn't worn, the rack gets very tight.So I should check my rack for play when it is off center?How is the pinion tightened, and that will make it too tight elsewhere on the rack? That must mean the pinion isn't worn, just the center part of the rack (where its position is 95% of the time)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Here ye are Bob, the bigg nut, the one on the left. it has got shims under it.tek thee,s oot, and the pinnion goes further into mesh wid rack.try taking one shim oot at a time, or smallest first, or make some others up.need to have either wheels of the grun, or the track ends off, so only rack moves.this way, ye can feel the resistance diff shims make. follow,!!, its really simple. get in there. ;)this can be done in / on the car. but for moer serious work, its easier off.although, the ends can be took off one side, so the whole caboodle comes oot the other side.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Docman Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 You DO make it sound simple. Thanks!!!I still want to get rid of the solid mounts and steering knuckle at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltddirk Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Bob,With the rubber boots off the straight ahead part of the rack is visible at full lock. You might have to take the drop arms off to get it that far ( mine was not connected up yet)you can easily see the worn teeth on mine, but i did not have the amount of play you are having. In the end I bought a new quick steering rack, only because it was cheaper than buying the parts separately, and some were not available off shelve. If I do not like the quick rack I can always revert to the old rack and use the new drop arms on that oneIt would seem that you can remove the whole rack from the housing and turn it 180 deg so the worn part is not longer at the straight ahead position.Dirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 A very sick rack.Rack teeth are towards one end so not reversible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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