Rolling Restoration - Doesn't Roll

[Anthony]

I went to view a car at the weekend which I had believed to be a rolling restoration. But it isn't...and it won't budge  
I wasn't able to take many tools with me at the time so I didn't get to jack the car up to see what's seized.

The tyres were completely flat, so it might be as simple as that.
The brakes were rusted and probably seized.

The handbrake was operational.
The car was in neutral (gear selection was fine though)
Engine turned over by hand
Brake pedal returned to the top after being depressed and released, but that's just the return spring

If I buy the car I'll have to get it onto a transporter - Not too much of a problem as it'll have a winch.
But it might be tricky getting the car back off the transporter if it won't roll

My plan before trying to move it is to jack up each corner individually and see if the wheels rotate.
If they don't I'll undo the brake calipers from the uprights (hopefully they'll come off without too much of a fight)
Then get some air in the tyres and keep my fingers crossed.

What have I overlooked?

[Clive]

Seized on rear brakes! Can be very difficult o free up, especially in a short timeframe.
If they are, jack up. Cut/remove the rear hoses See if you can free off the adjusters. (hopefully not auto adjusters!) the a big hammer and get busy.
I was lucky, a herald I bought had been left for many years outside under a tarp. But a health wack on each drum freed the rear brakes. So may be the same. Just don't be shy!

If course a carefully used decent trolley jack could be used if the rear is seized, depending on terrain.

[thescrapman]

I had had to resort to smashing drums offf with a sledge hammer in the past.

They were self adjusters on a Mk2 2000 saloon.

[Jonny-Jimbo]

I've got some wheels with tyres on that hold air - not suitable for getting it on the road, but would get a car rolling fine. PM me if of use to you.

[Nick Jones]

Pump up the tyres.  Even soft tyres may a big difference if it's been stood long enough to flat-spot them.

Back brakes can stick if it's been left with the handbrake on.  Wheels off and few firm clouts with a soft faced hammer will usually resolve that.

Don't step on the brakes - if the hydraulics still function you can force rusty pistons out and the springs can't drag them back - making matters worse.

Nick

[Stuart Wilson]

other option is get hold of some of the skate type things, jack the car up lower on to the skates and away you go.

Quick search on google brought up these, good price for a set of four, after you have collected the car either sell them on or keep them for moving car in the garage, so you can get it right into the corner or against wall etc

https://www.sgs-engineering.co.....unAnNpcaAuuOEALw_wcB

[Dion]

Quoted from Stuart Wilson

other option is get hold of some of the skate type things, jack the car up lower on to the skates and away you go.

Quick search on google brought up these, good price for a set of four, after you have collected the car either sell them on or keep them for moving car in the garage, so you can get it right into the corner or against wall etc

Problem usually is these only work on very clean and smooth garage floors. Which not many DIY classic car owners have in their garage.

[RobPearce]

Quoted from Dion

Problem usually is these only work on very clean and smooth garage floors. Which not many DIY classic car owners have in their garage.

When I had the workshop built at my old place, the floor was "tamped concrete". Those little roller wheels definitely wouldn't roll on that. Trolley jacks wouldn't and neither would my toolbox.

The architect for the new workshop specified "tamped concrete". I told him to change that, so I got "powerfloat" finish, which is what you need if you ever want to roll those little wheels across it.