Davemate Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Is there any way of knowing if spacer shims are needed for a 2.5 starter as I don't have any and I'm going to be useing a 6-3-1 exhaust manifold. I don't want to fit the starter and then have to remove the inlet and exhaust manifold as it turns out spacers should have gone in.Shall I just wait and fit a couple and be done with it, if that's the case my convention is stalled until I get hold of some shims.Radders said that there not always required but in 99% of the time they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzer Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 There's quite a few different spacers. Is this for a standard starter? Im sure you can get a pre engaged off and on with an extractor manifold. Inertia is no problem and ive taken a pre engaged off a tr5 with extractor manifold still attached. Dont think youll have a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radders Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 570 wrote:There's quite a few different spacers. Is this for a standard starter? Im sure you can get a pre engaged off and on with an extractor manifold. Inertia is no problem and ive taken a pre engaged off a tr5 with extractor manifold still attached. Dont think youll have a problemHi Darren, Doesn't the TR5 6-3-1 manifold go straight down vertically, where as the big saloon 6-3-1 manifold leans back slightly to miss the steering link? When I changed the gearbox on Dave Jones Mk1 with 6-3-1 manifold I couldn't remove the pre engaged starter completely and just had to prop it out of the way.I also never used to have a spacer on my hi-torque starter on Gertie, but then when I had it reconditioned had to fit one as it was no longer clearing the ring gear! Weird! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzer Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 My only recent experience is taking the inertia starter off and on the 2000 with witor extractor and sump guard. Works fine. Lighter than pre engaged as well and turns over the nearly 11. 1 comp fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radders Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 570 wrote:My only recent experience is taking the inertia starter off and on the 2000 with witor extractor and sump guard. Works fine. Lighter than pre engaged as well and turns over the nearly 11. 1 comp fine.Can you use an inertia starter on a 2.5 engine? (Dave asked me today and I didn't know)The inertia starter is shorter than the pre-engaged by the look of it, so you would have more room to remove or fit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony68 Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 I may be wrong, but I thought the spacer was required to fit the non-pre-engaged started to the engine backplate, whereas the pre-engaged ones fitted without a spacer? I know that they fitted a range of starters to a range of engines in typical Triumph mix'n'match fashion. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Hello Dave, if this query is still current, either measure the starter face to end of the pinion then the engine back plate to the edge of the flywheel ring gear if the first is less than the second you won't need a spacer, or else trial fit and turn the engine with a spanner to see if the starter catches the ring gear. For what it's worth, I have no spacer on my 2.5 engine with a pre engaged starter.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 Alec As per our text message I've fitted it without any spacers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Hello Dave, text message, it must have been someone else as I don't do text?Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 piman wrote:Hello Dave, text message, it must have been someone else as I don't do text?AlecJust realised your not Alex (the lorry driver) always thought that was you :XOh well !These pictures ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Hello Dave, Alec with a c.That shows plenty of room so definitely no spacer as that would then make the pinion further out of mesh and could increase wear.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 piman wrote:Hello Dave, Alec with a c.That shows plenty of room so definitely no spacer as that would then make the pinion further out of mesh and could increase wear.AlecThat's good to know as its fitted :)I've still got to wire it up though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Dave, best actuall way of dooing this would be to cover the starter teeth wid Dykum blue, then run starter,this will tell ye exactly where teeth are sitting / meshing.then can sort oot shims to M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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