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Electric Fan switch -  thingy


oldbanger

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Evening,

I'm wanting to swap my GT6 mechanical fan to electric ,, Ive got most of the bits and some of the know how -  but I can't figure out where to buy / what I need to measure the water temperature so as to trigger the relay. (?? thermo resistor ??)

Also instead of pulling the air through the radiator,  can I not push it through ?? (ie fan in front)  - I can't for the life of me figure out the thermodyanic difference :o)

Jon

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Hello Jon,

I fitted my fan in front of the radiator, one I can remove the radiator without having to remove the fan first (It's a Kenlowe and rather than use their cable tie fixing method I made brackets) and it looks much neater. No mechanical fan means I can fiddle about under the bonnet with the engine running and not get hit by a moving fan. As you say there is no aerodynamic difference.

Alec

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I have had my auxillary Kenlowe for some while now but found the mechanical/capilliary nasty and when it got wet shorted out and kept the fan on.

The answer was not cheap but very neat. A Revotec unit in the top hose.
http://www.revotec.com/

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1075 wrote:
Evening,

I'm wanting to swap my GT6 mechanical fan to electric ,, Ive got most of the bits and some of the know how -  but I can't figure out where to buy / what I need to measure the water temperature so as to trigger the relay. (?? thermo resistor ??)

Also instead of pulling the air through the radiator,  can I not push it through ?? (ie fan in front)  - I can't for the life of me figure out the thermodyanic difference :o)

Jon


my advice is,

if you are using a standard triumph rad then get a 22mm boss braised into the bottom tank of the rad.that way you can use a lower temp switch to activate the fan and it is an industry standard size thread for the switch which will allow a much larger selection of switches to get the engine running at the temp you want.
placing the fan in front of the rad 'may' mean it will come on more but if the rest of your cooling system is ok it shouldn't be a problem.

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cheers,  much appriciated,,,  particularly about the relay type ,,, default (failure position) - being on,,, I'd thought about adding a switch in line in case of this -  but thanks - I now know to use one of these babies.   cheers ,,   time for some online purchases  ;o)

Jon

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Really?

A fan with no relay - almost no work, almost guaranteed to fry old wiring eventually.

A fan with one relay and a switch vs a fan with two relays and no switch.  about the same amount of work.

If something goes wrong... a fan with one relay and a switch vs a fan with two and a switch, in case "A" you have to notice the problem and mechanically resolve it, but in case "B" it's resolved for you.

I prefer doing a very little bit more work to end up with something a lot more failsafe.

YMMV.

C.

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1248 wrote:
I'd suggest using a normally closed double relay system, so that if your switch fails, the fans will stay on rather than off.

Something like this




Got to say I like that idea as I used to run a fan via a relay and Kenlowe style thermostatic controller, trouble was the thermostatic controller was pants and could not be relied on to always switch on before things got too hot under the bonnet and as Craig says if I did not spot the temp rising then it was too late to hit the manual switch.

I will copy the double relay setup and keep the manual switch for peace of mind/overkill.

That idea combined with my alloy rad + twin Pacet fans means my paranoia of overheating will be a thing of the past  :)
The radiator install is not quite finished but you get the idea





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Hello C,

of course you could run without a relay, simply fit a suitable switch and correct size cable, remember there is no old wiring to fry because this is an add on.
Relays are generally reliable but I would not go your route, as I say keep it simple, complexity tends to make faults more likely so if it can be avoided do so, that's my philosophy.

Alec

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