Davemate Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I went to fit my fan today, but there is no room.Herald with a 1500 it has a standard small rad and I bought a 10" slim fan.As you'll see in the pics,As it is now See it won't fitNo room between rad and pumpSo I can only fit in front of the rad instead of behindI know it's best to fit it behind as to not restrict airflow Do I just move the rad forward and fit longer hoses does it matter if the engine side pannels are not attached to the rad or will that render them useless in which case I'll remove them.If I do fit it in front of the rad what would the effect(if any) of fitting it on a frame an inch or two In front or is it best fitted as close as possable and is that the same if it's fitted behindIs a 10" fan to big should I swap it for a 8" one even with a 8" one ill still have the same issue as above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordon T Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Our Old Austin Maestro 1275 had the fan fitted behind the radiator in-between it and the lower grill/valence. That was the standard set up from the factory and it never once over heated! I dont see why the same couldn't be done here. :)Jordan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Thompson Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Wouldn't a full width rad give you more area in which to locate the fan :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Dougthompson wrote:Wouldn't a full width rad give you more area in which to locate the fan :)It would give me a longer rad but not any more height or space between itself and the pump, and I have only just had it recored with a 3 core matrix ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Hello Dave, fit it in front if you have the room, but you'll need the fan to blow rather than suck, maybe removing the fan blade and turning it over will do it."I know it's best to fit it behind as to not restrict airflow ". That is not true, it restricts as much behind the radiator as in front. Both disturb the airflow.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 That fan doesn't look "thin"to me,i had minimal clearance on my Vitesse and fitted a Spal 11 inch sucker fan,very slim.Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willows40 Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 I really don`t see the need for an electric fan on a herald or spitfire, With a full width rad or like yours uprated normal size the normal engine fan does more than enough to keep them cool.Saying that the fan you have doesn`t look like a slim one to me.cheers andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 No real reason why you can't move the rad forward an inch or so. I did using some lengths of 1" box steel. Hopefully hoses will reach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Steve That does look tight ! I must admit I only tried to roughly drop it in from the topI will try and slot it in from the bottom tomorrow.The standard rad matrix height is only about 9" as when I put the fan in front I would not fit flush on the matrix it was being held out by the edges and the top and bottom tanks,hence the question about fitting to a frame an inch or so awayI should have got an eight inch fan really Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 willows40 wrote:I really don`t see the need for an electric fan on a herald or spitfire, With a full width rad or like yours uprated normal size the normal engine fan does more than enough to keep them cool.Saying that the fan you have doesn`t look like a slim one to me.cheers andy The standard set up now works too well New recored rad and a propely working stat have dropped the temp from normal(the middle)down to the1/3 mark The car now runs on the weak side and if I change the mixture by even one half a flat it buggers up the nice smooth running So by fitting a electric,or more to point by removing the standard fan I am hopeing it will warm up quicker and a wee bit more as most of my journey to work is in traffic.And when I removed the standard from an old series landrover I used to own the engine reved so much more freely I could not believe it and I'll need every bit of help when I start to some autosolo stuff this year !!So yes Andy I would totally agree with you on that one if I was just useing it as a road car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Removing the standard fan is great as long as you can control it properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam93 Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 The easiest soulotion is to mount the fan on the front of your rad, and just swap the wires over at the fan when wiring up. This will make it blow rather than suck, it will work fine as I have a similar setup on my herald. : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Thompson Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Doesn't always work that way with modern fans beware !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einar Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Here is some pics when I fitted it to my Vitesse: http://vitesse.no/Garage%202010-2011.htmlIt's a tight fit but worked out :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam93 Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 To be honest I think for the money I spent on my setup, you cant't beat it it. Basically I got 2 7" universal fans from eBay for about £30. There mounted as one suck, and one blow on a full width radiator. There controlled by a cheap and easy thermostatic switch, with the sensor mounted in the top hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Sam93,My cost so far is £15 for the 10" fan£10 for a thermostatic switch,which my mate is fitting to a spare thermostat cover £0 for a relay I have one left over from other things £0 wire same as above £0 for a meter of copper pipe(to possably make a mounting frame)Hopefully a nice and cheap install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 I moved my radiator forward about 40mm (which also meant moving it downwards slightly to clear the bonnet) to fit a pair of electric fans behind the radiator. Two might seem overkill, but I live in a hot climate. I mounted the radiator on C-shaped brackets which o between the side valences and radiator. My fans are ducted too, meaning that all the fans pull air through the entire core, not just the section that the fan is attached to.I haven't noticed any power gains, but the metal fan made a screaming noise at high rpm, which the electric fans don't have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezmond Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Last year I decided to remove my electric fan so I could prioritise getting the tuning perfect to prevent overheating at source. I got a strobe, marked the bottom pulley with white paint marks so I could better set the ignition timing. I replaced the vacuum advance tube and tweaked the carbs. It worked and even on the hottest day of the year she didn't boil over (I don't believe my current temperature sensing and gauging system)However, if I was to use my Herald as daily transport, I would now refit the fan. Sitting in the inevitable traffic jams on a hot day would not be good for the engine or my sanity. Personally I don't like the probes that go into the top hose. They make it hard to seal and inevitably impede water flow. I'd either go down the route of having a screw fitting in the radiator or a simple manual switch on the dashboard.So I guess that my recommendation is to get the tuning right and make sure the cooling system is functioning as designed first. Then fit your fan(s) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hello Dave, "So by fitting a electric,or more to point by removing the standard fan I am hopeing it will warm up quicker"As the fan is irrelevant when travelling at any reasonable speed, i.e not crawling in traffic, it won't improve warm up time. What temperature thermostat did you fit as it should run hotter than you say (assuming the gauge is giving a fair approximation of temperature?) Given adequate radiator and fan performance which it sounds as if you have it is the thermostat that controls the engine temperature.Personally I have removed the mechanical fan and have a Kenlowe mounted in front of the radiator. It's worked well for about nine years or so. Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Alex, When I go to work I pull out of my road onto a high street the road also has two schools on it so it's stop start solid trafic for a couple of miles.The car used to have an 88 stat it now has an 82 one fittedThe temp gauge used to sit bang on the middle and rise a bit if caught in traffic(once warm)Now the gauge sits at the 1/4 mark and when in traffic it will only rise a tiny winnie bitWith the fan removed I am hoping the car will warm up quicker when I am sitting in the traffic going to workI am thinking of putting a hotter running stat back in as well Jez, The fact that the engine is running cooler has screwed my tuning up a bit,well it seems to have.It now seems to be running to weak at various spots in the rev range and if I enrichen the mixture then that is bugggering up the general running compleatly across the revsNick,That's what I will probably do,make two c type brackets.On my old landy when I removed the fan it made the engine rev from tickover much more freely than before, I don't know if there are noticable power gains as such it was just it reved more freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logicaluk Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 id start by changing the stat back to 88 deg & see what diffrence that makes.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Hello Dave, in those circumstances changing the fan could help, although the thermostat stays closed for a short while anyway. Try going back to the 88 degree thermostat but just be aware that is the temperature at which it starts to open and it's another 8 to 10 degees before it's fully open.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 logicaluk wrote:id start by changing the stat back to 88 deg & see what diffrence that makes.DanThe temp gauge dropped when i changed the water pump and rad.As everyone has said its the stat that controls the temp which is why I changed it.The book states that the standard stat is an 82 which is what I bought,on removing the old one I found out it had an 88 installed.The new rad,the old one recored but with a three core matrix I would have thought would cool the coolant quicker but it is the stat that sets the engine temp and not the rad As I said earlier the temp dropped I then checked and fitted a cooler stat which has kept the gauge at the same lower tempSo I am thinking that the old stat was knackered and the old rad matrix must have been not up to scratch/partially blocked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Quote:I am hopeing it will warm up quicker I do not believe that electric fans cause quicker warm-up. This is controlled mainly by the themostat.Contrary Views?C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Blighter Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 1337 wrote:I do not believe that electric fans cause quicker warm-up. This is controlled mainly by the themostat.Contrary Views?C.Welll the mechanical fan blows a lot of cold air across the engine even when idling in traffic - so removing it means the block warms up quicker - however I suspect it makes very little difference in practice although my Spitfire is now at normal running temperature halfway to work rather than as I get here since I removed mechanical fan. Thats also changing to a full width rad. I think the electric fan has only come on once since then.Main advantage of moving to electric fan is freeing up that extra torque to go to the back wheels rather than pushing air around when not needed. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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