mikeyb

yes - that is the point of it - the twist will change as the suspension goes up and down and the wheel rotates. if you are not sure, jack the wheel up and down under the wishbone (having supported the chassis on axle stands) and have a look! what you don't want to see is any major separation between the segments

I've run a mk3 GT on 5.5J's with 175/70's no prob.  Others on here have run 185/60's My Spit Mk3 is still on 5.5J's with 175/70's

buy the cable online and splice it into your existing one yourself.  plenty on here that have done just this! you won't be able to buy such a loom off the shelf. Saloons never came with headlamp relays, so this will be a new install - either make a new loom that is triggered from one of the existing headlamp plugs or cut and splice into the runs to the headlamps down each chassis rail under the bonnet. I did the former my mk2, the latter on my Sprint. The former has the advantage of being "non-damaging and non-invasive" but uses a lot more cable length, the latter is a lot neater but involves cutting into the main loom. We did an alternator conversion on Gertie our old Mk1 (now owned by Radders and still in my avatar!).  We used the existing dynamo connections straight into the back of the alt if I remember correctly, and ran an extra power wire back form the alt to the solonoid.

don't forget I still have a set of Mk2 blue cloth recliners if you are stuck    :)

Nick_Jones wrote:Can be aluminised (metal spray process I think) or could be ceramic coated.  The people who actually advertise ceramic coating for manifolds (Zircotec IIRC) always seem unreasonably expensive to me but you may be able to find a company that does it for general industry that is more reasonable. Proper application of a high quality heatproof paint works quite well too. Nick is there one that you would recommend as "high quality" Nick?  I've tried some cheapo ones before, all burnt off!

AlanChatterton wrote:I think its Zircotech you are thinking of. http://www.zircotec.com/ That's the one - thanks for that - blooming eck they really are pricey - says on the website that they started off doing coatings for the nuclear industry.  Nothing like that on my site though!

I have a mild steel tubular manifold that I'm rather keen to preserve.   Somewhere, sometime I've come accross someone offering some sort of protective coating.  (How many somes?   :-/  ) Anybody have ideas or experiences?

Stag brakes are pretty good.  Standard Sprint brakes are crap bordering on scary!  The best thisng I ever did to that car was to fit a Trackerjack front brake upgrade - Golf vented discs with Sierra calipers, bloody good on EBC balckstuff, flippin mental on 1144's!

did you get mine Rob?

No def won't be entering, track not really my thing!   Happy to come and help out though if I'm able   :)

mikeyb (work dependant!)

http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/news/car-clubs/800022752/triumphs-in-2000-mile-endurance-run/

why would you ring the TSSC - they are a car club (with an interest?)  not an insurance provider or broker. if you have not already done so, talk to the broker direct. I don't hold too much hope though, the milage limitation is on the car not the driver.  As others have said, should be no bother to pay more and extend the limit.  If you have problems, then ditch em on renewal and tell em why. see my pm for another suggestion   :)

I don't recall seeing that infamous hump on any Triumph wheel!  Even the ones that were produced when only tubeless tyres were fitted. Try another fitter!

just back home, had a cracking drive back to Morecombe yesterday cross country and through the Trough of Bowland. After a big roast with darren's parents, followed by wine, port and brandy, promptly dozed off in the chair! Thanks Martin for organising a great event, I tried to look as entertaining as possible, hope somebody got some pics.   We need to tie it in with a P&P meeting next time though   :) Now off to fix that bloody handbrake    :-/

new discs, stripped cleaned/re-pistoned and re-sealed calipers with mintex 1144 pads improved my braking tenfold. I have a home possibly  waiting for a pair of standard Stag calipers if you decide to go down the "alternative" route. . . . . :-)

Yippee, my ability to attend has now been confirmed. Entry form will be in the post asap martin :-)

not another acclaim?    :)

I'm not sure I agree - the heavier flywheel would need more inertia to spin it up, therefore pick up with the lighter one should be improved but possibly at the expense of smooth tickover and engine braking.  I took plenty off the back of my PI one, made a huge difference. It was recommended to me to get it balanced after lightening though.

I must admit I'm not missing the pre RBRR adrenalin hiked last minute maintenance/firefighting! With two incomplete major house projects on the go, spare time is rather elusive at the moment - but if you're really stuck, give us a shout   :)

impressed you got hubs apart!    :)

Skiach could be difficult for us. Still working things out, suggest liaise with Tim   :)

rightho, if it's definitely on, I'll try and sort out work bit far away from home for you isn't it Colin?  How come you are allowed out   :)

I'd love to do it but it's one of my working weekends. Bit of a quandry now as to whether to try and get the time off  :-/

4526 wrote: ok ! thanks for the info!  :P so you need that ally bit ?  :) I could find a home for it  :-) looking at the wheel you pictured, the rim and spokes bolt to the centre hub. If you ebay motolita (or mountney) hub, you will see that both the wheel and hub can be purchased separately. I would think that all of a manufacturers range of different wheel styles would bolt onto their own hub. They supply different hubs to fit the column shaft splines on different makes of cars. So to summarise, whatever you go for, you need a hub to specifically fit a Spitfire, but can choose any style of wheel (ie. wood, leather et.c) to bolt on that hub. regards Mike