Sheepy
-
Posts
781 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Sheepy
-
She will be walking round your garage, picking up tools, and scratching pictures into the nice shiny gt6 before you know it! Happy she is doing well.
-
The yellow one is nice, but not so sure about the tow bar! :-/ And the shag pile gt6 is sooooo nice from that view! ;)
-
The yellow one is nice, but not so sure about the tow bar! :-/ And the shag pile gt6 is sooooo nice from that view! ;)
-
How are you filling it Marcus? Just pouring the oil or ??? What about using a big syringe?
-
Thanks Wim (can't copy and post pictures with my I pad) I will try and remember where I see that other one!! Can you copy and post the yellow one above! Anyone got one of Marcus rear end! (mmmmmmmmmm) ;D
-
Thanks Wim (can't copy and post pictures with my I pad) I will try and remember where I see that other one!! Can you copy and post the yellow one above! Anyone got one of Marcus rear end! (mmmmmmmmmm) ;D
-
It is a nice one, I also like Marcus's rear end! ;) ;) There have been a few with other lights fitted, seen some when browsing google! Will have another mooch.
-
It is a nice one, I also like Marcus's rear end! ;) ;) There have been a few with other lights fitted, seen some when browsing google! Will have another mooch.
-
Did you try anything on this Wim?
-
That will make Dirk happy! That rear arch was a mess, it's amazing what other folk can bodge! Looks lots better now! 🙂
-
He was typing at the same time as me! :P
-
If the diff is off the car, the only thing you can do is turn the pinion by hand, feeling for any slop, tightness, crunching, back lash. You won't feel if it whines at high speed though. Hold one of the output flanges, then turn the input to and fro to see how much play is in the diff. Also grab one at a time and see if you can move it, up, down, in, out, do the hokey cokey, and you turn around.... Sorry got carried away there, :) check for any excess movement. If it has been fitted with a drain plug then you could also drain the oil, check the condition, and then look inside the hols to see if you can see anything bad inside. Look for leaking pinion seal, (unless it has been cleaned) but that's about all really if it's not in a car to test. Is it from someone you know, or a complete stranger? If you are going to fit and drive with it within a day or so, you can always ask if it's noisy can you return it! You never know they may say ok.
-
Doing some nice work there! Can you show a picture of your English wheel please, I like the idea of a small vice mounted one, it sounds a good idea. 🙂
-
The diff looks good, personally I would have done the hole bigger. But I suppose as long as you get it warm before you drain the oil it should be ok. (still better than having no drain hole) :)
-
MikeyB wrote:bolt and copper washer is how mike papworth does it, just loctite or wellseal the threads That would be easier to get a thread tap for! If I remember correct, the diff plugs I have (land rover) are tapered thread also!
-
Ken, how steipped is yours? I would use some degreaser, or parts cleaner. If you don't have that, then some kerosene or diesel, petrol, but be careful using these. I suppose at a push some very hot soapy water would work, but I doubt as well.
-
Gloss black would be better. As for the plug, I have a new one with magnet you can have. Not very good doing it with a bolt. But you will need to find a big tap to tap the threads.
-
It doesn't fit there! :P It is worth modifying it now, while its easy to work on, and fit a drain plug. Will make oil changes a lot easier in the future. Plus then you can have a good look inside, and clean it all. You will then know what it is like inside, rather than waiting to fit it and then find a problem. Do you still have some black paint that you painted the chassis? That will be ok for the diff also.
-
As Steve says, it should puzzle a few people! You should tell them it was a one off micholetti design! ;)
-
cliftyhanger wrote: Do not be tempted to play with the but holding the prop flange in place. Not at all. That's not a nice way to talk about his friend, even if he does own an MG! ;D ;D
-
I also used the same as dave, from rust uk, and can also recommend it. ;D But it was for a tank I made for my truck, used the clean to clean out the oils and grease from the new steel, then the sealer to seal the tank (holds 250 ltrs, so didn't want it to leak! The original holds 500ltrs!)
-
Try someone like these http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/56mm-id-732-saej30r9-nitrile-rubber-fuel-injection-hose-sae-r9-627-p.asp DON'T buy it from e.bay, as it's usually cheapo Chinese made hose just stamped up R9.
-
It's always great to see the work some do in such confined space. It's coming along well, good work.
-
When you fit the rings, have the gaps offset to each other, (I.e. not all in a line) Also you say it is a recessed block, was the correct recessed gasket used? (there are two different ones, a recessed and non recessed) just a thought. That's a lot of oil being burnt, if the engine has been sat for a while, the rings could stick in the piston, but If it was recently built, I would not suspect that. You say you can see the honing marks, that is good, but it may be good to try measuring the ring gap, place a ring in the bore and set it square with the piston (up turned and pushing it in the bore from above, a little way in, then remove, and it will leave the piston square, and a good way into the bore) then measure the gap with feeler gauge comparing to the technical specification for that engine. If after they built it, and it has stood for a while, perhaps the oil used during build up has drained away from the rings, and when it was run it was "dry" for a while, therefore prematurely wearing the rings. (I'm just trying to throw ideas at you) I would suspect rings, as you say it smokes alot and the oil goes black. Hope this helps, and not scare you! ;)
-
I agree with R.S. don't use fuel for the test, use oil. While the head is off check the side movement in the valve stems! (before removing the valve spring do a valve leak test, use fuel for that! As you looking for the slightest leak) Turn the head over, get it level (two blocks of wood is good) then poor some fuel into the combustion chamber and see if it leak out. Is it a recon/rebuilt head? Then it should be ok, if not the valves may need lapping in. When you say it used oil, was it smoking? Usually if she smokes it's a sign that the rings are worn, if it just puffs when you declutch, it points to worn valve stems. Have you not got a leak on the engine? A failing gasket or something? When it's parked do you see a puddle of oil?