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Got your email, but as your car was never available in New Zealand I'm not really much help to you. Spoken to Mr Google and can only suggest that as it's basically a Honda motor you need a Keihin service kit DA 76B from a Honda dealer. Best I can suggest. Regards Tony.

Tell us a bit more about your car. What motor it has and if possible what make of carburettor. Tony.

The usual place is the boot, how often do you need to remove battery though? Tony.

Rimmers are still listing a lot of panels though  not sure who makes them. Tony,

Sorry, but it's essential to get some accurate measurements. This really means removing pistons to measure the bores.I doubt if low compression will cause that amount of oil use. More than likely it's getting past the rings due to worn cylinders.  Sorry again, but with that sort of oil consumption she probably needs a rebore and all that goes with it. Hope I'm wrong for yous sake. 🙁 Tony.

If you're going to fit relays I wouldn't be too worried about the light switch, It's only going to switch relay current( bugger all ) 🙂 Tony.

I personally use Loctite master gasket. make sure everything is really clean first. Last one I did was a 2500S which I then stupidly  sold.  No leaks whatsoever. 😆 Tony.

Sorry, brain fade. I meant to say M12 studs. Freelander one's will fit the hubs without any machining. MGF nuts will also fit straight on. Tony.

You'll need to fit 7/16'' nuts and Freelander studs. You will also need MGF wheel nuts. Did this with my Spitfire. Tony.

You won't find a perfect, cheap gauge . You know the light works, so would suggest you put a bit of masking tape over the gauge, go for a long drive and don't worry unduly. 😆 😳 Tony.

Once had an A type that did it to me.  When I finally levered it off found splines on the main shaft were twisted. Hope J types don't do this. especially yours  🙁 Tony.

I can read 'STD' stamped on shell which I imagine means standard, original size crank. Really think you need to measure accurately the shaft journal. Otherwise we're only guessing. Can you borrow a micrometer ?  Tony.

I've only changed the mains on a Rover 2000. Loosened the whole lot first then pushed the shells out with an ice cream stick. Not the easiest of jobs bot it can be done. 😭 Tony

Just found out how to make the print bigger 😆 Tony.

You really need to measure the crankshaft for ovality and check it for score marks on it. Just have a good look at the bearing shells first though.  If there is much sludge in the sump it may be time for an engine flush. Tony.

While you have the sump off, it may be a good idea to drop a big end cap off and have a look at the shells. if they look like copper (as mine did) time to measure the crankshaft for wear. Sorry if you didn't want to know this.  Tony.

Yes. Tony.

Probably all similar. Have fitted Pertronix to 3 T.C.'s and a Mk 4 Spitfire with delco electrics. No problems with any. To me seems easier starting and better running. Although that may be me justifying the expense. Never happy with the latest crop of aftermarket points though. Tony.

I also stand corrected. Uncovered the lathe and made an adaptor to test some gauges. Have 2 mini gauges and a nos Singer Vogue one, all 0  to 100  Smiths one's ,also an old B.O.C. oxygen gauge. All 3/8 x 28 tpi. Also have 2 gauges on my compressor. At 50 psi they are remarkably even. Unfortunately don't have access to a mercury column, but satisfied they're pretty accurate. Tony.

Don't believe gauges. In another life I used to calibrate gauges amongst other things. Even expensive gauges are not necessarily accurate, so don't expect cheap mass produced ones to be. Over time I have acquired some mechanical gauges (mostly Smiths one's ex Mini's) I intend to compare readings some day and see how accurate they are. The only problem is you really need a mercury column to get accurate readings. Tony. 

Presuming it's fairly new, take it back to the supplier as not fit for purpose. Never really satisfactory bodging it as you have had to. Tony.

This may be of use to others having o/d problems. Had my very noisy gearbox overhauled by an "expert" 15 months ago . Needed new bearings. Though it would be a good idea to have the o/d checked out at the same time.  Anyway 'box came back nice and quiet but o/d did not work. Having an arthritic knee I was not too keen  on climbing under the car again after having replaced the gearbox and must admit I lost a bit of interest. Fast foreward 15 months, it got to the stage where I didn't want to drive my poor old Triumph. Got a cortisone injection which made things a bit better physically. Went on ebay and found a training manual for  a J type by Vauxhall.  Removed o/d from gearbox which is a bit easier than removing the complete gearbox. Stripped the hydraulics and l just basically cleaned all the bits and replaced all the  o rings. the main operating pistons had an O ring in three pieces and the bars holding them in place were bent. All back together and it WORKS !! Find a book and it makes it very clear. Tony.

Back in my diesel mechanic days, I have seen a nylon fuel line wear a perfect radius in a steel injector pipe. Actually far enough through to leak diesel  Tony.

An I missing something here? Surely easier to fit a vtec engine complete than trying to adapt an old Triumph lump. I don't see what you would achieve without a lot of shagging around.  Just my thoughts for what they are worth. Not wanting to decry what you're attempting. Tony.

Also have a look at Pertronix. American unit which worked well for me on my Mk4. Also on my 2500. Replaces points and condenser. Tony.