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Andy Flexney

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Everything posted by Andy Flexney

  1. Thanks to everybody who got  back to me confirming their details and shame on those who haven’t.  ;)  :) If your first name is Steve, Reg, Richard, Laurence, Toby, David, Dave, Paul, Adam, Nigel, Marino, Stephanie, Craig, Dieter or Andrew, you might want to look in your spam folder and see if there is an email from me. If you did not get an email please contact me via the forum. We will shortly be sending out further information about the 2015 10CR and need to be sure we have the correct email addresses. Thanks AndyF
  2. a few days ago I sent out an email to all entrants asking them to confirm I have the correct details.It is especially important that I have the correct email address as this will be the main communication path. If your email address is incorrect you will already have missed some important information about the route and changes from previous years. If you have received an email from me would you please reply to it confirming or correcting your details. From 80 emails I sent out I have received only 52 replies. Thanks AndyF
  3. I have just sent out another email to all entrants asking you to check your details. If you have not received the email from me sent 13th January 2015 please send me a PM via the forum. If you have received the email please confirm VIA EMAIL that the details are correct. Thanks AndyF
  4. The reason so much emphasis is being put on Sat Nav files comes from the feedback received after the 2013 10CR. Participants complained about the quality (lack of detail) of the maps and the instructions, some saying it would be better if they were in Google maps. By providing Sat Nav files each team can see the route in as much detail as they want using their favourite route planner. And if so inclined trace the route onto a paper map. I am quite sure all of the participants of the 10CR are able to read a map but does that mean they have to prove it every 2 years? But if that is their thing then by all means navigate using the old methods after all the principle behind the 10CR is that each car makes it the run they want it to be. Personally I find using Sat Nav files is the best way to enjoy the driving and the scenery in a relaxed manner. After all there is now only one night of driving so there is plenty of scenery to be looking at. AndyF
  5. I think the main problem people have when using a Sat Nav is that they expect it to tell them where to go. If you use a Sat Nav as a speaking map and program in the route before you leave you will find they are as good as, if not better than using a human navigator and paper map. Of course you have to understand how your Sat Nav works and how it will react in different situations. Knowing that, you can put in more or fewer waypoints to ensure it sticks to the route you would like to do. The Sat Nav maps that were created for previous 10CR runs were tuned for a Garmin system. If transferred to another system the route may well be different and errors could creep in. Of course these detailed route descriptions are difficult to transfer to a physical map and the instructions are not the easiest to follow unless you are an avid MS AutoRoute user. One way around this is to drop the Sat Nav file into ITN Convertor. This is a free download (http://www.benichou-software.com/) and once the file is loaded into ITN you can study the route in detail using the editor function. Unfortunately ITN does not offer printing facilities but it does offer great detail and could be used to transfer the route to a paper map. AndyF
  6. Theo, just been reading your blog and wondered if you could not use the TR3 insulating blocks? You would have to use longer screws and have about 10mm space between carbs and wing but they might just work. Take a look at number 158 on http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2107 Cheers Andy
  7. tiggrr1 wrote:I see Gaz and I are car number 8, I always thought the colour of my GT6 was damson Or is someone trying to say there may be a couple of plums driving about in Europe next year.................................. It said PLUM on the entry form and who am I to argue? Goody wrote: Sill don't know if I am classified as a American Team?   The entrant's (first driver) address was used to determine the nationality. So yes you are classed as an American team. AndyF
  8. The entry list is now full and the reserve list is also filling up. The attached Excel sheet is my version of the teams taking part. If anything is incorrect and I am sure it will be as some of the entry forms were very difficult to read please send me an email or PM with the correction. Please mention the team number. As you know the start will be in Aachen and the finish will be in Rolduc. The organisers have asked me to mention that the other overnight stops will be published beginning of 2015 which will give you all enough time to organise accommodation. AndyF
  9. The entry list (65 entrants) is now FULL The reserve list is still empty so there is still a chance to get in later. The list will be published on the forum under “Events -> 10 CR” shortly. Thanks AndyF
  10. Due to popular demand here is a preliminary update on the 2015 10CR entry list. The entry list of 50 teams was full by last Thursday evening therefore it was decided to increase the number of entries to 65. Counting all the post that has arrived here up to and including today (26th November) there are 63 teams taking part. Yes, this means there are still 2 places left and of course the reserve list. The complete list is due to be published next week after, hopefully, the 2 remaining places have been filled. A few statistics on what we have to date: - 2 teams from USA - 5 teams from Europe - 10 teams from Yorkshire - 5 teams each from Essex and Notts - 1st most popular car  -  2000 MK1 = 9      - 2nd most popular car  - TR6 = 7 - 3rd most popular car  -  Stag = 6 IMPORTANT This text has also been sent to all (first/driver) entrants who gave me an email address. If you sent in an entry form and have NOT received the email please send me a PM with your email address. Thanks  :) AndyF
  11. Story Beans that was shot down when it entered British airspace. It was mistaken for a low flying green TR7 AndyF
  12. Story Beans that was shot down when it entered British airspace. It was mistaken for a low flying green TR7 AndyF
  13. I usually back up the axle stands with breeze blocks and house bricks as well as big pieces of wood. In fact there is so much stuff under the car there is hardly any space left to work AndyF
  14. November or late February is the best time to test the winter tyres and snow chains in the TR3 AndyF
  15. on the 3, if the car is pulling to one side or the other when braking it usually means the opposite rear brake is out of adjustment. AndyF
  16. I think Revington and the TR Register has already done this and shells can be bought from Revington. 20% off if you are a member of that club
  17. 9388 wrote:I would estimate 80% of cam chains are industrial. The standard DIN is 06B and this can be pruchased for pennies. Automotive chain is different in many ways and costs more. Most owners just do not know what they are getting. Andy So what you are saying is that 06B is the industrial standard but what is the automotive standard? How are automotive chains different? AndyF
  18. put some tape round the input shaft, and fasten it in to a drill that has plenty of torque. Get the gearbox spinning and flick in the overdrive. You will notice the propshaft flange will turn quicker and you the drill makes a different sound. Have someone holding the gearbox or fasten it to the bench otherwise it might spin over when you start the drill. AndyF
  19. I'm with Hogie. I have always used grease and pump in new stuff every year. I suppose it does not matter what you use as long as it i sreplaced often. AndyF
  20. Martin, up your way today and just got back. It sound like the taper pin to me especially as you say it went all of a sudden and no loss of hydraulic oil. According to the CT un-written law the best place to change a clutch or repair a gearbox is on a small country road in France or a Dutch car park. I would  suggest you book a few days holiday and take the car to the continent. AndyF
  21. I have never seen a TR6 ‘box with the pads, but as Jason mentions perhaps I have never seen an original late TR6 ‘box. The diagram you show Alex is from the saloon and if I were to use any of these parts I would make sure I use all the others. I would not want to mix and match between early TR ‘box and saloon ‘box. Remember Standard Triumph gave the similar looking parts a different part number for a reason, usually because they are different   :)  :) AndyF
  22. Jason, there should not be any dents in the bearing carrier and certainly not in the position where it is. Is there one at the other side too? The bearing should spin until the little pin through the carrier is pressing against one of the pins on the fork. I would replace the bearing carrier and the bearing, the fork pin and the cross shaft bearings and the complete clutch. In other words just about everything. The fingers on the clutch look quite worn and could be contributing to your problem. I would not only wire the fork pin but drill a 3mm or 4 mm hole in the middle of the fork at 90 degrees to the pin position and tap a roll pin through. It offers support to the pin and will hopefully not break before you have had chance to take the box off again for clutch replacement or whatever. AndyF
  23. Jason, We had this on a TR5 and a TR6 last year and both times it was the bearing carrier. This was made out of cast (?) iron and after changing to a brass carrier all was well. It appears the iron carrier wears, the hole becomes oval and starts to jam on the shaft. This is especially noticeable on the TR5 and TR6 were it cannot spin freely as on the TR3. During the rebuild we left the pin out of the bearing carrier on the TR6 to see if this will help. First we were told it was because of aftermarket clutches and clutch covers but could not find any evidence to back this up. Although it did slightly improve when we put in a reconditioned original Laycock cover and new plate. Beware there are 2 different size bearing carrier and if I manage to find the bad picture I took I will add it here. The one on the left is the one I used in the TR3 albeit with TR6 gearbox and overdrive so I presume this is the one you will need for yours. The gearbox flange to engine is thinner on the original TR3 box therefore the slightly moved back bearing carrier. As Mike says take you gearbox out you know it makes sense and replace the bearing carrier. If you have the seats out already for the carpet refit it is only a couple of hours and you have the box out repaired and back in Cheers AndyF
  24. 6797 wrote:   ...  As in something adjustable that stops the travel of the wheels? aren't they called brakes?
  25. is the 1600cc six cylinder engine smaller than the 2000cc? Yes I know it is about 400cc less but is the physical size of the engine smaller? Does anyone have one they might want to sell? Thanks AndyF
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