markw Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 I have a question regarding stripping back and protecting bodywork in lieu of welding work, question being, if you have a car that needs a fair bit of welding, repair panels fitting etc, and wanted to strip back the old paint on the entire car before doing any metal repairs, largely to see what we have , find any filled /hidden rot, suspecting the car is likely to sit around for a while before welding commences, what would you do to prevent rust setting in where bare metal is exposed? would you coat it with weld thru or etch primer before getting to the welding, and general bodywork repairs?cheers,Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Upol Acid 8 is ideal........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Hello Mark, I wouldn't strip the whole car only any suspect areas.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midgeman Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 7690 wrote:I have a question regarding stripping back and protecting bodywork in lieu of welding work, question being, if you have a car that needs a fair bit of welding, repair panels fitting etc, and wanted to strip back the old paint on the entire car before doing any metal repairs, largely to see what we have , find any filled /hidden rot, suspecting the car is likely to sit around for a while before welding commences, what would you do to prevent rust setting in where bare metal is exposed? would you coat it with weld thru or etch primer before getting to the welding, and general bodywork repairs?cheers,MarkI stripped the whole of my 13/60 convertible as like you I wanted to find out how much filler had been added over the 40 years of service and was pleasantly surprised to find hardly anything.I used Upol Acid 8 Etch Primer (not cheap) and it protected the panels perfectly until its respray many many months later. My car was kept in a garage, I would not recommend leaving it outside without Topcoat also try and make sure you keep mucky fingers off it as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olib007 Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Dusting with spray cans of red oxide also works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willows40 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 don`t forget most primers are porous, so leave paint on for as long as possible and once you have stripped the paint and done repairs, remember where the welding has been done will rust quicker, I would etch as soon as possible and get a couple of rattle can of top coat and spray use that over the etch,That way it will be better protected but will require a little bit more work when you go to paint it Cheers Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_s Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Agree with Andy, primer is not waterproof so hardly any better than nothing at all, think the etch primer is ok to use or epoxy primer if got cash burning a hole in your pocket.if just got normal primer then i would put on a layer or 2 of top coat to protect it, easy enough to sand back before final paint job.rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsaver Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Another vote for etch primer. Weld through primer is a complete waste of money as it give less protection that normal primer, this I recently found out to my cost when getting a chassis blasted I paid the extra to have it primed in weld able primer only for rust to appear within two weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Keys Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Etch primer will absorb moisture. Look forward to micro blisters later in life. Use an epoxy primer if you are leaving it for any length of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markw Posted April 17, 2013 Author Share Posted April 17, 2013 cheers all, will take this all on board.. ta,Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967 MkIII Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Interesting discussion as I have the same situation.I'm just about to soda blast the entire body inside & out to see what problems there are before repairing/replacing. Problem is that the bootlid which has been already stripped 3 weeks ago already has a rash of very light surface rust.The entire body will take at least 6-8 weeks till it's ready to spray. Now I'm thinking if I etch or prime it & then sand that off, I might as well leave it as is and sand off the light rust. I know the problem might be if the repair work takes longer but if that looks like happening then I'll change tack.CheersSteve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 If you want a short term protection then ordinary primer will suit your purpose.It can easily be washed off with thinners and a rag.Epoxy primer is much more stubborn and expensive.Etch primer will give no extra benefit as it is porous.If the panel does get any flash rusting then wash off with something like DeOx-C.Grit blasting/abrasive paper will not remove deep seated rust - all rust is deep seated (intergranular) TRy and keep the tub dry and airy.Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partsaver Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Also soda blasting will not remove most rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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