willcolumbine Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Yup - that sounds like it'll work! Wiring stuff like that is generally so cheap that when I order it I just buy a few bigger and a few smaller - just to be on the safe side! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Hi,I've had loads of problems getting hold of a decent gas bottle without having to pay the earth for rental. I've found that a mix of CO2 and Argon (similar to Argolight from BOC) works better for me. Anyway I did find a supplier in Telford, about 50 minutes from me, who sold me a full bottle complete with a regulator for £150. The bottle is mine now and refills will cost me £50. On the face of it it looks expensive, but when you compare prices and delivery charges it's actually quite good. I'm in Telford fairly regularly so there's no extra expense in getting it.Disposable bottles really are a waste of money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/welding-gas-CO2-REFILLABLE-BOTTLE-/130419835327?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e5da0c1bfHeres one in Telford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Will - just seen your blogThat's pretty much what my bonnet looks like right nowGot any pointers for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Just keep plugging away at it! Measure it all up to start with and work out the panels that are scrap. Then clean up all the joints with a 'cleaning fleece' so you can find the spotfelds. Then drill them out with a spot weld drill bit on all the panels that are scrap!When it comes to welding up things like the cracks in the bonnet, you need to use a really low power setting and manage the heat you're putting into the panel to avoid distortion. I worked my way from the middle to the edges, welding for just a few seconds each time before leaving it to cool. When I got to the edges I clamped a much thicker peice behind to dissipate the heat and stop the welder 'eating' the edges! Then I just flushed the weld with a flap disc on an angle grinder and then finished off a few spots with a dremel. You can distort panels and weaken welds with a flap disc so be careful and don't be in a hurry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 It's a good idea to drill a hole at both ends of the crack to stop it going any further when you weld it ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 willcolumbine wrote:When I got to the edges I clamped a much thicker peice behind to dissipate the heat and stop the welder 'eating' the edges! Good idea, Will!But if you can, use a sheet of aluminium. It'll conduct the heat away much quicker that steel, and it won't weld to the back of the repair.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Sounds like copper would be better - if you could find something the correct size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I have a flattened out a peice of copper tube to use as a backing peice for filling holes etc but it was in my other workshop when I was doing the bonnet so I grabbed the first thing handy - a peice of 4mm steel plate. Seemed to work alright and was too thick to end up welded to the back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Did you remove the strengthener panel at the front for ease, or because it was shot too?I'm doing - wings, arches, and headlight panel thingiesI don't 'need' to do the strengthener panel, but wondered if it would make it easier whilst doing the headlight panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 What regulators are you guys using fir your welders?I'm looking at the SWP and HiLo ones right nowAnybody got any experience of these brands? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 1903 wrote:Did you remove the strengthener panel at the front for ease, or because it was shot too?It was shot, basically! I probably could have repaired it in situ but when I thought about it, I came to the conclusion that if you're going to take a bonnet almost completely apart, you might as well go the whole hog. I got given a few panels too which helped me make my mind up.At least if I do it myself, I can get weld through primer on all the panel flanges and seam seal it properly so it'll be all good under the paint - a guarantee you don't get with second hand parts!When it comes to regulators, you need to make sure you get one that can take the pressure - literally. Some of the older ones are rated to a lower pressure than newer ones. Also, I'd pay the extra and get one with two guages (bottle pressure and flow rate). It'll make life easier in the long run! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Yep, I've gone for one of the regulators with two gaugesGot a flowmeter too, but I doubt it's really neededHave you done your wings yet?How'd you attach them?I'm guessing you drill the wings and not the bonnet, then just plug weld them?Is that the same for the thin panel that runs down the length of the wing towards the bulkhead?I take it that's drilled and plug welded too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 1903 wrote:Yep, I've gone for one of the regulators with two gaugesGot a flowmeter too, but I doubt it's really neededHave you done your wings yet?How'd you attach them?I'm guessing you drill the wings and not the bonnet, then just plug weld them?Is that the same for the thin panel that runs down the length of the wing towards the bulkhead?I take it that's drilled and plug welded too?I've not done the wings yet. I'm leaving them attached while I do the headlamp panels and the stiffener panel. That way I can see how good a fit the headlamp panels are going to be with the wings. Once I've checked that out, I'll probably lie the bonnet down, whip the wings off, check out the fit with the inner arches and then clamp it all up.Then I'll just plug weld them exactly as you say!I'm not sure about those little reinforcement panels at the back of the bonnet - I haven't had a good look. I guess I'll find out when I go to take them off! They look like the back egge of the wing is folded over them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 What gases are you using?I'd heard 25% Argon Co2 was the one to useWeldingGases seem to have good prices, but don't do 25% without rental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Chaps please remember the most important piece of kit is your welding helmet do not buy cheap crap your eyes will not thankyou. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Ive got a Speedglas Auto Dimming helmetReckon that should do the jobCan't wait to get cracking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I've just seen that 'Welding Gases' have items listed on eBaySeems strange bidding for gasAnybody know the terms of this?ie, I assume the delivery and rental would still apply, and still be as usual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I did put a link in this thread for Shropsire Welding Suppliers 10LB CO2 GAS BOTTLE (FULL!). WHY PAY RENTAL ON A BOTTLE WHEN YOU CAN OWN THE BOTTLE AND CONTENTS!!. DUE TO CHANGES IN LEGISLATION YOU CANT REFILL PUB BOTTLES ANY MORE THIS OFFERS THE PERFECT SOLUTION AS WE CAN REFILL THESE FOR YOU(EXCHANGE FULL FOR EMPTY). THESE BOTTLE OFFER MORE ECONOMIC SENSE THAN THE DISPOSABLE CO2.BOTTLES. PAY THE FEE ONCE FOR THE BOTTLE AND CONTENTS AND IT BELONGS TO YOU THEN WHEN EMPTY SIMPLY BRING IT BACK AND PAY A FRACTION OF THE COST FOR A REFILL, SIMPLE!I have put the blurb that they have on their ebay site have a look if you want if not that's fine too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Cool, Thanks HughI completely missed that the first time :B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Can someone please enlighten me, why can a pub bottle no longer ber filled??I only ask cause I own a pub bottle, seeing as I normally weld with pub gas!! Have I now got a worthless bottle??Cheers,A slightly confuzzled Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spunkymonkey Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Pretty sure you've never been able to refill pub bottles if you go by the regs, Phil. Like most potential bombs (CO2, Argon, Calor gas etc) they're supposed to be checked on every fill, which is why they're done on an exchange basis. But depots won't usually exchange a bottle from a different supplier (eg: your local BOC depot won't swap your pub bottle for one of theirs). So you find a friendly local pub and you get them to exchange it along with theirs if you're not already doing that. May cost a few pints for the landlord of course :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Id swapping a cylinder at the pub, make sure he gets CO2 ones. Lots are now a CO2/N2 mix, useless foe welding. They do it to stop the cylinders being used for purposes other than gassingteh beer i suspect.BOC are now introducing ever more methods to foil people trying to get cheap gas.The bottles are now bar-coded, so if you return with a bottle with a barcode they did not issue to you, no swap.THis prevents you having 1 rented cylinder and a number of "acquired" ones, and swapping them all on the back of the 1 rented one. At over £100 a year rental it soon adds up.I note they also charge nearly £20 collection fee now if you go there to exchange the bottle. Still cheaper than £45 for delivery mind ??)Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Just finished with a gas bottle I was given to practice withSo, I've got to buy another bottle nowI'm going to buy a 200bar bottle.......will I need a 10litre or a 20litre bottle?I'll only need enough gas to do one car (and some more practicing) ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 thescrapman wrote:BOC are now introducing ever more methods to foil people trying to get cheap gas.The bottles are now bar-coded, so if you return with a bottle with a barcode they did not issue to you, no swap.THis prevents you having 1 rented cylinder and a number of "acquired" ones, and swapping them all on the back of the 1 rented one. At over £100 a year rental it soon adds up.I note they also charge nearly £20 collection fee now if you go there to exchange the bottle. Still cheaper than £45 for delivery mind ??)Don't expect any favours from BOC. I use someone near Twickenham who will swap out pub bottles. I also have one Distillers welding bottle (WELDPOOL). Looks like a pub bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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