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Doug Thompson

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smithy wrote:
Top fuse would mean instruments (water/gas) off too nuh? I'm still voting for the switch.
You and I have our originals stockpiled though eh Colin,  ;)


Top fuse being out means, among other things
- no brake lights
- no indicators
- no rev counter

but the headlights will still work IIRC.

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All other lights are on another fuse, not the same one as controls brake lights, indicators, etc. And it's very common to have the fuse and/or fuse box contacts just build up a bit of oxidation, while just moving the fuse around usually will restore function!

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Doug_P wrote:


Top fuse being out means, among other things
- no brake lights
- no indicators
- no rev counter

but the headlights will still work IIRC.


Uh yes Doug dead right, and also immediately recognisably, water and fuel gauges - which is why I'm still voting for the switch.
Or was!
"forgot to mention don't appear to have any power to switch" may have me change my opinion......!
Checked the fuses yet then, DougT?

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Are you running Halogen headlamps??? If so then its the switch, and you will need another as the contacts burn out except the flash option. Chic doig has them in stock, second hand for £15. Check if its two position or three. Also once you have replaced the switch then you need to fit a relay kit. Here is the one my wife bought me.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250904682958#ht_2496wt_1206

Just speak/message the guy and ask for the Triumph spitfire version.

Chris.  

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2402 wrote:
Are you running Halogen headlamps??? If so then its the switch, and you will need another as the contacts burn out except the flash option. Chic doig has them in stock, second hand for £15. Check if its two position or three. Also once you have replaced the switch then you need to fit a relay kit.  



Why?  A 60W quartz-qalogen bulb will draw the same current as a 60W tungsten bulb.

Now if he was using UPRATED bulbs (of either filament type) then there will be a higher current through the switch, and adding relays would be a sensible precaution.

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bodders1 wrote:



Why?  A 60W quartz-qalogen bulb will draw the same current as a 60W tungsten bulb.

Now if he was using UPRATED bulbs (of either filament type) then there will be a higher current through the switch, and adding relays would be a sensible precaution.


Yes but a thirty year old dodgy lucas prince of darkness switch was shite when it was new and even shiter now, throw in some dust, cack, corrosion etc on the contacts - hot spots will  appear on the contact plating eventually vaporizing the conductive bits of the switch -and if you are Ellis running 5,0000w searchlights the cables will melt as well! old cars need new relays to protect old switches
...simples!

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Hello AJP,

"Yes but a thirty year old dodgy lucas prince of darkness switch was shite"

No I don't think they were, despite them being built to a price the car manufacturer was willing to pay. Lucas could and would build to any specification asked for. The blame for marginal equipment was the car manufacturer, also they were never built to last for thirty or more years without replacement, but many have survived that period.

Alec

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2402 wrote:
Are you running Halogen headlamps??? If so then its the switch, and you will need another as the contacts burn out except the flash option. Chic doig has them in stock, second hand for �15. Check if its two position or three. Also once you have replaced the switch then you need to fit a relay kit. Here is the one my wife bought me.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250904682958#ht_2496wt_1206

Just speak/message the guy and ask for the Triumph spitfire version.

Chris.  


bodders1 wrote:



Why?  A 60W quartz-qalogen bulb will draw the same current as a 60W tungsten bulb.

Now if he was using UPRATED bulbs (of either filament type) then there will be a higher current through the switch, and adding relays would be a sensible precaution.


Indeedy.

Anyhoo, I've got supper dooper halogens in the Herald, but standard rating. The flasher wire comes un-soldered now and then but everything else has worked without issue and in all weather for five years.

Any issues are simply coincidence or the result of 40+ years of use. And that's the only reason I'm fitting relays (eventually).

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