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chazchas

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Its early in the morning cant sleep, so looking at the body mount kit that came yesterday, pretty  self explanatory except for the two u shaped washers, they are about a 1/4 inch thick, i remember removing these, but cant remember where from. my manual does not show them, any ideas.
    do you think my dogs ready for a walk

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They go under the bulkhead - the mounting points nearest the engine.

edit - Did you get that kit from JP? If so, the rubber strip will be wrong. The original is webbing based and a lot stronger rather than the stretchy rubber band in the JP kit. I was lucky as I wasn't expecting it in the kit so ordered one separately from CC at the same time. The difference between the two was startling.

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Yes the two thick washers are for the two front mounts on the bulkhead i.e. either side of the bellhousing.
Be careful with the rubber washers / spacers - they compress too much, far more than the original canvas spacers, and so can cause rattles or poor gapping as the sections move about. I take it they no longer supply the metal plates with the captive nuts, or do you have those already?

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The metal plates go on the two mounting points above the diff, with no rubber pads at this point. Early Mk2 cars may be different in this, I've not established the and fast rules on this, but by 1964 everything was being configured this way.
Every other mounting point received a single rubbber pad ,-  as already stated, the modern replacements are much softer than the originals. On no account should these pads be doubled to take up clearances.

In the real world, production tolerances are cumulative, so the body rarely sits level with just a rubber pad at each mounting. The factory used additional metal spacers to shim the clearances and adjust alignments, so when the mounting bolts are tightened, there is no twist introduced, everything sits level and true.

It may be the case that metal plates are often at the front outriggers, it's certainly not been true of any of the Heralds I've worked with in the past couple of years though.

Cheers,
Bill.

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and don't be scared to add as many , as many metal washer/spacers with the one rubber as when fitting a 40yr wonky body to a refurbished chassis can lead to alarming amounts to make the panel fits correct
and check there's no tub spread while its all off/loose.   or the door bottoms will stick out

Pete

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heraldcoupe wrote:

It may be the case that metal plates are often at the front outriggers, it's certainly not been true of any of the Heralds I've worked with in the past couple of years though.

Cheers,
Bill.


Now THAT’S interesting, and corrects a misconception I’ve had since my first attempts at Heralds twenty years ago. I remember vendors at TSSC Stafford selling a large aluminium spacer for the front mountings - I still have two, having used two on my estate - and these were huge, almost two inches across. The story was that the bulkhead was screwed down tight onto these and all other tolerances were then gapped from this static point. I had a great chat with Hugh Roberts in the cafe on the day I bought them and he spotted them sitting on the table and recognised them as solid front mounting spacers, so I always assumed, from that, that fitting these was correct.

(whatever happened to Hugh, by the way? An absolute gentleman and a pleasure to chat to.)

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It's true that the bulkhead is the key body component, (supposedly) immovable with everything else built around it. Spacers can be used here to adjust the height and angle of the bulkhead, but their use here and anywhere else isn't written in stone - they were/are used as required, to bring things level.
The metal spacers were originally produced in various thicknesses, the thinner ones up to about 1/4" with a slot, anything thicker usually has a solid wall. I've handled spacers as thick as 1.5", though I've never found anything this extreme on a Herald,

The last time I spoke face to face with Hugh was about 4-5 years ago, he was planning to build a villa in Crete. He is now living in Chania,  

Cheers,
Bill.

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8705 wrote:
Hi Thanks for all the info, so what i can see the best way is to lock the two spacers above the diff leave the rest loose, fit the doors and adjust as ness. with metal spacers.  


Correct, except for the bit about locking the mounts above the diff. Everything needs to be loose - you're not only adjusting the relative heights, you're moving the body fore/aft and side to side to line up the whole package. Move the body where it needs to be, then tighten everything, starting with those above the diff.

Cheers,
Bill.

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  • 3 weeks later...

ferny wrote:
They go under the bulkhead - the mounting points nearest the engine.

edit - Did you get that kit from JP? If so, the rubber strip will be wrong. The original is webbing based and a lot stronger rather than the stretchy rubber band in the JP kit. I was lucky as I wasn't expecting it in the kit so ordered one separately from CC at the same time. The difference between the two was startling.

Canley Classics sell the rubber strips now

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Hi yes your right, i fitted them over the diff, and the body would not sit properly, i then fitted them under the bulkhead and it was fine, i am now in the process of lining up. got the doors fitting nice but have to close the gap to the bonnet. the body has to go forward. my task for today.

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