DazBock Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Hi allTook the spitfire out for a drive today (1975 - 1500). Now admittedly I drove it quite hard by it went well. Until the last few minutes. Then when I put my foot down on the clutch for more than a few seconds the oil light flickered on, stayed on for a few seconds then flickered off when I pressed accelerator. I checked and the oil level is fine with no leaks. So my question is where does the problem lie and how do I diagnose it?Thanks Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Good question. However you will need to tell us more..... If you sit at idle when the car is warm does it come on???No, then take it along the motorway at 70mph for 30 mins and then pull off and as soon as your off the motorway come to a stop with the car idling and see if it comes on then. Do this then get back to us.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 No it only does it when I put foot on clutch and has only done it twice. How does this motorway thing work? Sounds like it could potentially worsen the prob? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 DazBock,The long motorway run gets the oil as hot as possible and therefore as thin as it gets. Idling with hot oil is the most likely way to find low oil pressure. Was your car idling when you depressed the clutch, and got the oil pressure warning? If you have an especially low idle and pushing the clutch lowers it a bit more it could lower the engine speed to the point that the oil pump doesn't pump a high enough pressure to keep the light out. That is very low oil pressure if your car has the standard switch. Good luck, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Before getting too technical....has the engine been overhauled/rebuilt?A new oil pressure switch?If so....is it the right one/correct poundageIf not we take it from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Could be a number of things but best to eliminate the simple easy ones first. Wrong preasure switch is easy but i think he would have said, it could just have a worn spring. Do the tests and then we will give you more advise after that. By the way are there any knocking noises under any conditions??? Also what oil do you use and how often do you change the oil and filter???Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Until you fit an oil gauge and can see what's actually happening and when you'll be peeing in the dark. They're quick and easy to fit so if you don't want one in your dash you can plumb one in after a run and test the pressure on your drive at home. It'll always come in handy in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Does the idle speed drop when you put your foot on the clutch? This could indicate a thrust bearing problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 may be worth checking the crankshaft endfloat, just an outside chance here. Basically see if you can move the crank back/forward by more than a tiny tiny tiny amount.If not the case, ignore me :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Car was almost at idle when light came on as stopping at junction and had been driving for quite some time. I have a t piece and an oil pressure gauge so I plan on attaching this to test. Only had the car since October and I did the oil straight away with oil filter. Using proper mineral oil not the silly synthetic nonsense. Engine was rebuilt at some point but not by me. Car idles at around 900-1100 rpm and does not drop significantly when clutch pressed. Don't know if any of this helps. I will get car out on a long run soon but weather too bad today. Im also doing distributor and all plugs and leads this week and the front suspension as per my other threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 What viscocity and brand of oil are you using, and how long (mileage) has it been in there?Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 I would get some one else to press the clutch while you look at the front pulley on the crank and see if it moves. As putting the clutch in shouldn't effect the idle unless its worn. If there is movement then you need a new thrust washer. Let us know what brand and viscosity of oil you use as some are better than others with worn engines.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Can't remember brand but it is 20w50 mineral oil and has been in car for about 200 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 2866 wrote:Can't remember brand but it is 20w50 mineral oil and has been in car for about 200 miles.As long as it's not unbranded no-spec stuff, that should be OK.Putting your foot on the clutch will change the loadings on the crank, so it is possible that the switch is operating just at it's tipping point. Check for signe of excessive crankshaft endfloat as described above, but if that's OK and there are no untoward noises, try a replacement switch as they are prone to this mode of failure,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 17, 2011 Author Share Posted January 17, 2011 Well I bought the only 20w50 mineral oil available in the motorfactors I was in. Didn't want to use the halfords stuff as I know it is synthetic and heard bad things!Will check all the above. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 Halfords is ok but, your better off with Valvoline VR1 or Penrite. I personally use Penrite 20/60 as recommended by chic doig for use in engines that perform harder than just regular use. Its also good for the motorways when you dont have an oil cooler as it stays thicker.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_s Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Only bit i can add is mine had a problem where the oil light came on at low revs with new oil, i fitted a pressure gauge to double check and it was always ok apart from after a long run then brought to a halt, turns out my low pressure had some notches in it somehow, the spring was ok so just filed smooth and re-fitted, been ok for last 10k so nice easy free fix.rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Sorry what exactly had notches in? That sounds like the same problem Im having. Plan is to fit a pressure gauge and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Id check the pulley first.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 I have tonight fitted an oil pressure gauge rather elegantly I think! Which I am going to use to monitor the pressure for a few drives before removing. It currently reads 75psi at cold idle and drops to around 25psi at hot idle so I don't think I have a problem. Perhaps light was a lose earth or something! Driving 80 miles round trip on Sunday which should highlight any issues. Here is my work, anyone spot my rather stupid mistake?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Paterson Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 YepYou can't wind your window up or down any more ;D ;D ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DazBock Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Doug_P wrote:YepYou can't wind your window up or down any more ;D ;D ;DCorrect! Not without the door open anyway! Oh well! It's only staying for a few days anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 2866 wrote:Here is my work, anyone spot my rather stupid mistake?!Brown shoes don't really go with grey trousers??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 2866 wrote:Here is my work, anyone spot my rather stupid mistake?!You've only got one leg and should have bought an automatic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_s Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 2866 wrote:Sorry what exactly had notches in? That sounds like the same problem Im having. Plan is to fit a pressure gauge and go from there.if you undo the pressure relief bolt and take it out, behind it is a spring and a plunger type thing, looks a bit like a valve, it was the stem of this that had notches in on mine, quick few mins with a metal file and been ok since.On mine my pressure is about 75-80 when cold and 40-42 when driving along with a hot engine, hot engine tickover is about 20ish.rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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