thebrookster Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Can anyone help!!Having done various work on the clutch recently, I am still having problems, which has me rather stumped now to be honest.Having replaced the Master cylinder and the Slave cylinder, and after that discovered a missing clevis pin which has now been replaced. However when I bled the sytem through, and started the engine I still cannot get the cluch to operate. When I press the pedal I can see the arm moving, yet cannot engage any gear. If I try to engage a gear I just get a crunching noise from the gearbox. My first thought was there was not enough throw on the slave cylinder, so I modified it to allow it to move closer to the clutch arm. Still not luck.My next step was to replace the Master cylinder and see if that made a difference (I was working under the assumption here that maybe the new Master cylinder was a smaller bore than the original), however again no luck. After that I refitted the old Slave cylinder, so I was running on the original setup, and yet again still no change. I then tried starting the car in gear and she jumped forward happily enough.Seeing as this had had no effect, I then tried starting the car in gear but with the clutch pedal depressed. She started happily, but the revs were lower than they were out of gear, and the propshaft started trying to turn before desisting. This was the same in all four gears.Now my analysis of this so far is that I am either looking at a stuck clutch, or for some reason it is still not fully dis-engaging. However, I have no idea what to try next, so I am hoping that someone here can help. Please????Cheers,Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Have you checked the pivot pin that the clutch arm pivots on in the side of the bell housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Sorry Yeah, that is the bit I have called the clevis pin, as I have no idea what the hell it is meant to be called!! It is a replacement upgraded item from Chic Doig that has a decent head on it to stop it falling through the bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 Sorry, I thought you meant the one in the top of the pedal arm.Doesn't sound like a stuck plate from your description but insufficient travel.Could be due to air still in the system if all correct componentry correctly positioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 I had the same problem. Two things caused it.1. The clevis pin that connects the pedle to the master cylinder. was too loose because of wear in the pin itself and the hole it went in. A small amount of play affects the clutch travel a lot at the other end.2. The slave cylinder needed pushing further into the bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefertoo Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 can you pump the pedle to get into gear? if so prob still need bleeding. crank end float ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 Beef - No, pumping the pedal does not help. The clutch problem initially manifested itself only a month or so ago, so I should be surprised if there is any issue with crank float that quickly!However, Mr DannyB, I think you may well have moved me forwards a fair amount. I recall noticing on Monday the fact the hole you mention was somewhat enlarged, only 2 or 3 mm from gthe edge. If that does affect travel the way you say, then no wonder I am having this kind of trouble!! Looks like I will need to haul the old welder out tomorrow then, and do something about that a well.In terms of moving the slave cylinder, I have already moved it a bit, maybe it needs more taken off. Shall decide once the hole thing is dealt with.Will have another go at bleeding yet as well, allthough I should be surprised if this is an issue as I have never had problems with this before.Cheers guys, any other ideas please throw them at me :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Do what I did. Drill out the hole and put a bolt through but don't put a nut on it, drill the threaded end and put a split pin in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_s Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 I had a similar problem, the clutch did work but only had about an inch of travel, turned out to be the pin between the pedal and master cylinder was elongated, drilled it out, fitted a bigger pin, all fine now.rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 Well, that seems to be the problem solved now!! Suspect in the end it was a mixture of two things, bad bleeding on my part and a badly elongated hole on the pedal arm. So I welded up the hole and re-drilled it (had to do the welding in the living room, I don't have a extension cable long enough to rreach from my second floor flat top outside!!) and refitted the new cylinders. That, plus the modded Slave, and a new method of bleeding seems to have solved it!My top tip for the day, the method I used in the end for bleeding is as follows:Set up bleeding kit etc etc, but leave nipple in.Pump the pedal several times, then hold it in.Open the nipple to allow the clutch to push the fluid out.Close the nipple then release the pedal.Repeat until all air is out.Cheers,Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 My tip with bleeding is to add a piece of copper brake pipe to the bleed hole on the slave same type of connection as the pipe in from the master cylinder. Have the pipe come into the engine bay with the bleed nipple on the end of the pipe. You can then bleed the Slave from inside the engine compartment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Pedal went to the floor in Germany once. We stopped at a motor cycle store (mostly clothes) but they did have tiny bottles of brake fluid and using my air horn plastic pipe and a cut down Evian bottle we bled the slave cylinder in moments (GT6, you can reach it from under the bonnet) the whole thing, from stopping to getting underway, took 15 mins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Sharp Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 If any one else has this problem dont forget that the fork can distort with metal fatigue. Always check it whist the gearbox is out. As for bleeding here's an old garage trick that has never let me down. Once you have ensured that the system is not leaking leave the cap loose and chock the pedal down with a bar or jack and leave it overnight. with the fluid under pressure for a sustained period it will attempt to equalise with the outside world and any air bubbles will rise to the reservior. Just pumping the system does not always dislodge stubborn trapped air. This scientific dodge is also very effective with brakes. It has got me out of trouble when nothing ese has worked.Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Darren. that sounds like an excellant piece of advice!! Almost makes me want to jump out of bed now and go and do it, however I think it can wait until tomorrow!I think that there is still some air in there, every so often I do have to pump the pedal to get the smooth gear change. Seeing as I need to play with the speedo cable in the near future anyway I may also further modify the slave to allow it to move closer to the clutch as well, biting point is still a tad low for my liking (nothing wrong with where it is, just not to my taste!).Cheers!!Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiggrr1 Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Phil Darrens old trick as he calls it is a good bit of advice, I can confirm that it does work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicky Blighter Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Phil - daft question but is the bleed nipple in the hole above the pipe on the slave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Yup :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 darrenspitty wrote:As for bleeding here's an old garage trick that has never let me down. Once you have ensured that the system is not leaking leave the cap loose and chock the pedal down with a bar or jack and leave it overnight. with the fluid under pressure for a sustained period it will attempt to equalise with the outside world and any air bubbles will rise to the reservior. Just pumping the system does not always dislodge stubborn trapped air. This scientific dodge is also very effective with brakes. It has got me out of trouble when nothing ese has worked.This is a good tip! In my experience, there is always a little trapped air in the slave cylinder! There's another way to do it too which is quicker!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 In other words if the clutch pedal (when on the floor) isnt pushing the master cylinder all the way, after bleeding clutch normally, with a full reservoir of fluid, disconnect the rod from the pedal and push using your fingers the full piston travel and watch for bubbles/air then close the bleed nipple, release the rod/piston fully filling (purging) the master cylinder with fluid, refit brake pedal...no air in system.Brilliant, advise...cheers..! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Or just buy a hand pump preasure bleeder. No more spilt fluid etc. Makes the job take seconds, you can also reverse bleed the system which is the best method as air travels up.......Phil you could of had a lend.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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