WIMPUS Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hi!Yesterday morning i found some dot 4 fluid on the bulkhead (i thought it was the clutch master that was leaking .. ).Investigate it and found out it was getting out of under the cap.. Today it was again..The seal is still in good order, screw the cap on tight, when it's nearly tight it just turn over and it's back a bit loose :-/So guess the threads are gone.. Is this a problem with the alu caps? :)Going to order me a new cap & seal .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Wim, Don't fill the cylinder right to the top. Leave about 3/8" (10mm in your language ) clear space at the top. Fliud moves up and down a bit and expands with the heat. There is a small bleed hole in the cap to stop a vacuum forming.Hope this makes sense.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 nang wrote:Wim, Don't fill the cylinder right to the top. Leave about 3/8" (10mm in your language ) clear space at the top. Fliud moves up and down a bit and expands with the heat. There is a small bleed hole in the cap to stop a vacuum forming.Hope this makes sense.Tony.Fluid is around 8-10mm under the top, so .. :-/You feel the cap grabbing when you screw it on and then suddenly it's loose again :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 4526 wrote:Fluid is around 8-10mm under the top, so .. :-/You feel the cap grabbing when you screw it on and then suddenly it's loose again :oGoing to Stoneleigh this weekend..........do you want a replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 michael_charlton wrote:Going to Stoneleigh this weekend..........do you want a replacement?I can pick one up for you. Think it's better to get the plastic one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Agree, had mishaps with the copy aftermarket (cheaper) alloy caps in the past, flimsy and very easily bend the threads at the thought of overtightening..... a genuine OEM Girling alloy cap required, much stronger and work but they are fairly expensive, plastic caps are about £10 and will be just as good as the OEM alloy caps.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIRLING-CLUTCH-BRAKE-FLUID-RESEROIR-TANK-CAP-TOP-NEW-/140925866551?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20cfd61237 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 A few wraps of PTFE tape around it will stop leaks, as a temporary fix. Don’t over tighten the replacement, they’re only alloy threads - check them and see if there’s any dirt or corrosion that may prevent the new cap sealing. Copper grease helps prevent it sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 490 wrote:A few wraps of PTFE tape around it will stop leaks, as a temporary fix. Don’t over tighten the replacement, they’re only alloy threads - check them and see if there’s any dirt or corrosion that may prevent the new cap sealing. Copper grease helps prevent it sticking.I've seen that the threads on the master always rust a bit, and then the cap wouldn't go off easy .. (think it's because the master is metal and the cap alloy). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 4058 wrote:I can pick one up for you. Think it's better to get the plastic one?Do they have those for the regular old cylinders ? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 4526 wrote:Do they have those for the regular old cylinders ? :)Got one on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 michael_charlton wrote:Got one on mineI've been looking at the James Paddocks site and it seems the new ones have a plastic cap.. So will need to look out for a plastic one .. Shaun ?! :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Well friday i got a new alloy cap (i had it bought just before Shaun said he was going to look for a plastic one this weekend :B )When i looked at the old and the new i could see the difference..On the old the threads where gone !The new ones seals much better .But already had some paint damage around the clutch master :B :-/So last evening took the bracket off and sanded everything to metal, sprayed some zink on it and paint it black (like the rollings stones song ::) ;D ).Painted the bracket also and put it all together this morning with some shiny new bolts :PI only have seen that the hole on my pedal itself (where the pin goes in) is a bit worn.. So will look out for another pedal or otherwise weld it up :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hi Wimpy:Keeping nice paint underneath the master cylinders will be something that you'll be trying to do as long as you own the car.The worn hole in the clutch pedal is also typical, but only needs to be done every 15 years or so. It can be welded up, then drilled out again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 rotoflex wrote:Hi Wimpy:Keeping nice paint underneath the master cylinders will be something that you'll be trying to do as long as you own the car.The worn hole in the clutch pedal is also typical, but only needs to be done every 15 years or so. It can be welded up, then drilled out again.Yeah i know ! That's why i kept it black and not body color , so i could repaint is easy :PAnd i was also thinking of welding it up and drill it out .. (My neighbour has a problem with his front suspension bolts, the holes in the bottom wishbones are so worn out that he can't put a socket on the bolts/nuts from the shock and trunnion! The garage was going to weld them up for him also :) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadMitch82 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Had that problem on mine, had to cut through the trunnions and bolt, went through 7 saw blades on the two sides dont know why the steel tube eats blade teeth. was thinking about using a stout washer (similar thickness to the d washer in the hub) to re centralise the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanD Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Wim,Silicone brake fluid is your friend when it comes to bulkhead paint......It softens the pedal a bit, but combine it with braided hoses, which firm the pedal and it's about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 rotoflex wrote:Hi Wimpy:Keeping nice paint underneath the master cylinders will be something that you'll be trying to do as long as you own the car.The worn hole in the clutch pedal is also typical, but only needs to be done every 15 years or so. It can be welded up, then drilled out again.I learnt this last year. :-( I cleaned all the rust off, and spent 2 weeks spraying and clear coating teh bulk head. Looked lovely and matched the body colour. A few weeks later the brake master cycling seal went.....and so did my lovely paint job! :-( I am thinking of just paint it with black underseal and be done with it! :X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Underseal sometimes traps stuff under it that corrodes the metal.I think that the best way for someone who always uses the car is to just have a can of body color (or close) in a can to put on with a paintbrush. Every now & then you can wire wheel the bubble area, then brush on the paint. That area won't look perfect, but it will be "traditional" ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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