glang Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Hiya, has anyone found a real solution for fuel vaporisation in Vitesse carbs? I'm thinking heat shields, bonnet vents, exhaust manifold tape etc. Mine's going to live in southern Spain for a while and I would love to find something to help the old girl..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Well in my case the solution was easy, junk the useless kenlowe that a previous owner had fitted and fit the proper factory engine driven fan, end of problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 sorry u must have a special one as that didnt work on mine which with its recored rad runs at a good temperature. Have u removed the valences or done any other mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 No, that's all I did, it was always a pain on a hot day, the other issue being K&N filters, constantly slurping hot thin air....when I pulled the rad out to get the kenlowe off it was obvious that when it wasn't running it was blocking a sizeable amount of airflow through the rad. I returned the 'improvements' back to standard and that was the end of hot-day fuelling issues- the PIC shows just how much rad is covered by a kenlowe..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 My problem is when the car is stationary as the fueling is fine when moving. I stop and whether I have the original mechanical fan or an electric one the idle drops very low and if allowed to stall the engine is quite difficult to get restarted. When u think about it on stopping the heat off the exhaust must be considerable and it has no easy escape route which is why I was wondering if anyones has tried the various mods I mentioned.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Carb or fuel cooling...or both. I re-routed my fuel supply lines across the dash (Huco electric pump) and it feeds the rear carb. Hopefully that will solve problems I had in the sweltering Alps. If you need cooler air to reach the carbs then perhaps bolt-on K&Ns aren't the best choice. I had, for a few years, an adapted 2000/2500 air box that had a large flexi-tube running to a cone K&N alongside the rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Thanks interesting idea Don. I've got the standard filter with the hoses fitted to take air from alongside the rad but maybe I need to investigate more to pin down exactly where the problem is..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 sounds like she's just too richwhilst Im not in spain we had a 7 blade plastic fan on the 1600 with unwrapped 6-3-1, manifold ans std rad , std airbox used 1/.5" sink waste to make better air flow in the to the airbox and she never suffered a missed beatuse 97+ ron fuel advance as close to factory 10deg as possible never use plugs with an R in the suffixvapourisation seems more of a myth to hide more basic problems than blame the fuel from gassingPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Pete's point about possibly being a bit rich to begin with is a fair one but I do think vaporisation is a real issue, made worse by the witches brew which is modern fuel, designed for injection engines.Heat shield(s) and a cold air feed are about all there is without drastic measures. The standard airbox with the extension pipes is a fair start point for the latter but can be improved on. Blocking off the warm air slots along the bottom of it (bit of duct tape!) helps on it's own! Problem with the Vitesse compared to GT6 is where to find the cold air as it doesn't have the relatively cool area on front of the rad.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Thanks for the suggestions guys but it looks like there's no easy magic solution! I'll probably have to stick with a bodge that I saw in an old Alfa Romeo: it had a tick over adjustment lever on the dash (separate from the choke) that allowed the driver to pick up the revs a little if it started to struggle. I'm not going to install this in the Vit but have set up the choke so that by pulling out the knob just a little the throttle is opened without changing the choke position....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 spark plugs with an R in the suffix are 'resistive' made for modern radio suppression and require a much higher HT than our car coils produceour cars are about 22kv and resistive need over 32kv , so fine in a modern car with modular coils but can give understandably poor running on the general tin can coil we all use if you have these then your very likley to get some weeny sparks at the pugs and some general misfirePete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.