Raider Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 My 2000 MK2 has the usual overdrive switch on top of the gear knob.The wiring was all broken in the stick so I replaced it but I can't get the switch to "stick down" properly onto the gear knob. Now I know why there's often black insulating tape round them!Anyone got any tips? Quote
WIMPUS Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 Is it the same switch as on a Spitfire mkIV/1500 ? Those are secured to the cap with 2 screws... Quote
StagNL Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 Reckon Martin refers to the cap not staying fixed to the metallic part of the knob. Mine was like that for a while when the wrong type of switch was fitted.Julian Quote
heraldcoupe Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 Many of the replacement gearstick looms have terminals which are too long, they bottom-out against the alloy knob and push the cap upwards. The plastic cap can also lose it's plasticity with age, decent quality reproductions are readily available,Cheers,Bill. Quote
TedTaylor Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 Our solution on the RBRR when Gordon got fed up with the top buzzing (but not falling off) was to use brown insulation tape because it was handy in the glove box. At first glance it looks like a wooden gear lever knob ........ ;DMUT Quote
AlanChatterton Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 You need the proper connectors as standard ones are too long, this is why your switch is not going down.Rimmers do the new piece of cable up the gearlever, complete with the correct connectors for about £10, not worth mucking about trying to make one. Quote
Raider Posted December 27, 2014 Author Posted December 27, 2014 It is a Rimmer Bros replacement Alan.I can imagine the connectors are too long tho Quote
heraldcoupe Posted December 28, 2014 Posted December 28, 2014 Raider wrote:It is a Rimmer Bros replacement Alan.Only as good as whoever makes them for Rimmers, connectors have been too long on every aftermarket loom I've ever seen.Easily trimmed-down so they fit properly,Cheers,Bill. Quote
Raider Posted December 28, 2014 Author Posted December 28, 2014 I have trimmed them back and the switch might be OK now.I am taking nothing for granted with this car any more Quote
don cook1 Posted December 29, 2014 Posted December 29, 2014 I bought a perfect fit loom from Rarebits in Calne! Quote
Velocita Rosso Posted December 30, 2014 Posted December 30, 2014 Raider wrote:I have trimmed them back and the switch might be OK now.I am taking nothing for granted with this car any moreDid you also use thin wall hi rated cable?This also allows the switch top to go down furtherGot it on the Spitfire..........and P will tell you you how he improved the terminals Quote
Nick Jones Posted December 30, 2014 Posted December 30, 2014 Noticing the howls of anguish on the blog...I remember that feeling well. Must be a big saloon thing. You spend ages chasing down a fault with it persistently popping back up or evolving. Then when you finally seem to have fixed it, some other random thing pops up to rob you of any satisfaction. Then the original fault will probably recur later on, perhaps due to crappy repro parts or perhaps just sheer cussedness.Mine's gone to live with someone else now. I had a long talk with the new owner recently and he tells me that he has used it more or less daily, covered more than 6k miles and, apart from a deep pothole dislodging the inertia switch, it's been faultless.....Guess it was me it didn't like..... :-/Nick Quote
Shed 1969 Posted December 30, 2014 Posted December 30, 2014 Oh dear...You can tin bash a new knob out of some thin sheet ally and put a 30 amp toggle switch in! - its what I did!The heater - I am sure some softly softly catchy monkey shed engineering will get the valve rotated to hot..and just leav it there! and just use the flap to stop your feet meltingThe missfire - bin the bloody pionts then work off the theroy of- if it feels like fuel its an electrical fault,and if it feels like an electrical fault its fuel...So how much would you sell it for !? :) Quote
mikew Posted December 30, 2014 Posted December 30, 2014 If you are careful you can get a small pair of molegrips on the end of the brass heater valve and rotate it - but if you pull you will end up with the contents of the water jacket and radiator inside the car ??) as its only the actuating leaver that retains the valve in the radiator pipes Quote
Raider Posted December 30, 2014 Author Posted December 30, 2014 Nick_Jones wrote:Noticing the howls of anguish on the blog...I remember that feeling well. Must be a big saloon thing. You spend ages chasing down a fault with it persistently popping back up or evolving. Then when you finally seem to have fixed it, some other random thing pops up to rob you of any satisfaction. Then the original fault will probably recur later on, perhaps due to crappy repro parts or perhaps just sheer cussedness.Mine's gone to live with someone else now. I had a long talk with the new owner recently and he tells me that he has used it more or less daily, covered more than 6k miles and, apart from a deep pothole dislodging the inertia switch, it's been faultless.....Guess it was me it didn't like..... :-/NickThanks for that Nick ;D Quote
Raider Posted December 30, 2014 Author Posted December 30, 2014 8861 wrote:Oh dear...The missfire - bin the bloody pionts then work off the theroy of- if it feels like fuel its an electrical fault,and if it feels like an electrical fault its fuel...So how much would you sell it for !? :)Food for thought there - I always think 95% of the time it's an electrical fault but this time I have 2 new theories as well. ;D1. I have noticed the choke doesn't go all the way back in. Could it not be shutting off properly? Then when I was faffing about in the layby the car was ticking over with too rich a mixture (cos the choke wasn't fully off?). Then pulling away it's not happy. Not sure about that theory.2. Whilst faffing about and the engine running it got a little warm and the electric fan cut in. When I managed to get the b****y thing home I did take a look under the bonnet and noticed petrol in the clear bowl of the fuel filter "percolating". Fuel starvation due to too much heat there? Not sure about this theory either ;D Quote
Shed 1969 Posted December 30, 2014 Posted December 30, 2014 Are you running SUs or Stromies? SUs - next time you fire it up and its warm check the jets are fully pushed home with the choke cable in..if the cars not been in regular use? the jets/linkage can stick a bit for the first few hundred miles or so (along with loads of other stuff that will play up... then fix its self so keep persevering!) Anyway I'm not offering any help on fuel issues until you bin the Chinese points and condenser! :) :)Throw an Acu spark in or similar in and go through all the obvious HT /LT, timing stuff - then worry about fuel if it still misfires The fan will kick in if it has been ticking over stop starting etc so don't even worry about that at the moment Ignore the heater/overdrive issues - just get it running sweet first then worry about the nice to have working stuff! :) Quote
Nick Moore Posted December 30, 2014 Posted December 30, 2014 Could the bubbling in the fuel filter indicate a partial fuel line blockage? And is your fuel tank venting? Quote
TedTaylor Posted December 31, 2014 Posted December 31, 2014 As Nick says, bubbling in the filter can indicate it is blocked.What happens is that the low pressure created by the pump having to pull against the partially blocked filter causes the 'lighter' elements in the fuel which burn more easily to vaporise and form those bubbles.MUT Quote
ferny Posted December 31, 2014 Posted December 31, 2014 The same can happen if the fuel lines are kinked, have bends which are too tight or not de-burred. Quote
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