wukkie1 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 hi if I took the gearbox out from inside car could I then check the condition of clutch plate regards bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidb5964 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Yep, you will just need to undo the 6 bolts holding the cover assembly to the flywheel.If you are using it again undo each bolt a bit at a time and move to the next one, this avoids distorting the cover which could give you clutch judder when reassembled.Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wukkie1 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 nice replt thanks. in my maual there seems to bo an adjustment on the pressure plate would this give me more clutch clearance bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidb5964 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Not sure about the vitesse but if it is a coil spring clutch then you can adjust. If it is a diaphragm then it is what it is without using a tool to reset the fingersThe coil spring clutch has 3 levers and 6 springs, the other has from menory 12 xfingers.Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 IMHO the clutch pressure plate is not an adjustable or serviceable item. If faulty buy another, and a new friction plate - they are packaged as pairs. But clut h problems are far more likely to be to do with ths hydraulics of mechical linkages. Look at the first first, because it is external, then the lever system when you have the box off.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidb5964 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 I agree with John d. I have never adjusted a clutchmyself but know people that have tried. I know the manual shows you the coil spring clutch in its component parts but you should see the rigs that are used to set them up to give a judder free condition. How you would do this in a car I have no idea. As for setting the finger height and release load on a diaphragm spring clutch I could bore you for hours ????. We did used to reman clutches until about 3 years ago but this was mostly Volvo lorry clutches up to 15" but the amount of new parts that had to go into them it is cheaper to build new.As johnd says it could well be the hydraulics that are your issue with your plate dragging or not releasing (guessing that this may be your issue.)Daveps the hydraulics on my herald are Girling so not our fault ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wukkie1 Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 thanks going to take box out and will check all thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 there are thin throwout bearing at 15mm thick the orig was 19mm thick this makes the lever late and you loose mechanical advantage, cure is new brg or remove the spherical post and sit a washer under it to raise the fulcrum point a little.in general the Vitesse6 1600 had spring clutch and Mk1 Mk2 had diaphragms dont mix the plates up diaphragm has a thinner disc plate than the coil unitnipped in a vice diaphram disc thickness 20.270/0.290" GT6 wound yarn vitesse raybestoscoli disc 0.330" wound yarn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 HiPete, Daft question maybe but what size roughly would the washer be to fit at bottom of S/C push rod please.Cheers, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 No not the push rod, you need to pack it behind the withdrawl lever pivot postthis is a light tap in fit inside the clutch hsg.this raises the sperical pivot and compensates for the brg being too thin.one or two plain washers under it makes a lot of differencepete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Thanks PeteThought "spherical post" might be another name for the push rod and a washer might pack it out a bit. I understand some folk have welded a section in the push rod to compensate for the shorter bearing and I thought this might do the same.The technique you mean, would be a gear box out job I guess?.Cheers, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Actually, you might manage it with the gearbox in, though there could be a bit of swearing. Worth a go before you take the 'box out. Check the condition of the arm itself as they do sometimes crack and even punch through where they bear on the ball. Also be sure the hydraulics are good and fully bled (bleed nipple uppermost!) and that the pivot point on the end of the pedal is good before doing anything drastic. Can be a bunch of small issues ganging up on you sometimes.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wukkie1 Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 I had the gearbox recond, and got another clutch fork mine didn't have the fork bit on so not holding in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgetone Triumph Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Quoted from wukkie1 I had the gearbox recond, and got another clutch fork mine didn't have the fork bit on so not holding in place Hopefully the new fork will cure the problem Bill, I thought the retaining spring on the fork was fooked 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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