Nick Jones Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 So, finally my gearbox is back together and ready to go in. I'm not looking forward to the next part.... :-/I'm thinking to adapt a block of wood to positively locate on the bottom of the gearbox and trolley jack at the gearbox balance point.It has been suggested that one can crawl under the car, wrestle the gearbox onto ones chest and bench-press it into place. I don't thing the height of the car or axle stand positions make that a goer in this case though.I also need to find some 3/8" dowel bolts (3 I think?) as it had the precisely zero fitted before. POs......!Second question - I have to fit a new OD solenoid (knackered and bodged like everything else), but I haven't ordered the new one yet as only noticed today - does this let the oil out? 'Cause if it does I won't put the oil in yet!CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'm told it's a lot easier if you suspend the gearbox on some rope through the gearstick hole, put a piece of wood across the hole on the inside of the car from which to suspend the 'box in the approximate height and position................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Nick_Jones wrote:I also need to find some 3/8" dowel bolts (3 I think?) as it had the precisely zero fitted before. POs......!Second question - I have to fit a new OD solenoid (knackered and bodged like everything else), but I haven't ordered the new one yet as only noticed today - does this let the oil out? 'Cause if it does I won't put the oil in yet!Try LD Parts for the dowel bolt - they do a special.If its a J type overdrive the solenoid valve only lets oil out when the car is in motion (ask me how I know) - you need a thin 1" (if I recall correctly) spanner to tighten the solenoid correctly - the spanner needs to be no thicker than the flats on the solenoid - you can grind one down to fit, if you don't and fail to tighten it adequately 350 psi (or so for a Stag) of gearbox oil spays everywheremike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 It's an A-type so no daft spanner - makes things a bit easier and cheaper for once.Are the dowel bolts supposed to be specials - 3/8" bolt shank seems nice and snug?Comment about the rope through gear stick hole duly noted.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikew Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Nick_Jones wrote:It's an A-type so no daft spanner - makes things a bit easier and cheaper for once.Are the dowel bolts supposed to be specials - 3/8" bolt shank seems nice and snug?Comment about the rope through gear stick hole duly noted.NickNo worries about oil leaks with an A type solenoid, it just moves a lever.You can use 2 3/8thsbolt shank, at about the 11 and 4 o clock position if I recall - there's a number of posts about this on the TR forum and the old Stag forum which detail the positions.mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Hi Nick,Balance the gearbox on the jack. If you you have one of the 2.5 or 3 ton units. Put it into gear so that you can rotate the input shaft from the rear. Ideally you want a second pair of hands to do the jacking up to get it in the right position; whilst you lie beside the box, pushing/twisting the gearbox & rotating the gearbox flange. ??)There are only two dowel bolts 180 degrees opposed.I sometime find a long bolt throght the gearbox and end plate to line everything up helps. Not to draw them together just keep things aligned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 I've got a 2.5 ton jack - fairly stable. Good point about putting it in gear - I'd have missed that until too late then done some cussing! Used to putting gearboxes in from the top.I've been round the gearbox flange checking out the bolt hole sizes. There are three 3/8" ones in that, plus the starter ones. I haven't yet done the same exercise on the back plate, but I will before I drag the gearbox under.Thanks for the confirmation on the solenoid/oil escape Mike. I thought it seemed fairly dry in that compartment even though it's below the "oil line"Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 One is in the middle of three (I think) above the starter motor, the other is just above the two bolts for the slave cylinder mounting plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 Thanks - that helps. The third one in the bell housing is more or less the mirror image of the the one above the starter. There doesn't seem to be a hole in the backplate for that one though.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJB_Harvey Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Not actually done it myself but a good tip I heard recently is to use camwheel bolts with there longer shanks to secure the engine backplate accurately .... Sounded a very good idea ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Must admit never had a issue manhandling 2500 o/d boxes in with a combination of bench press and knees on the overdrive - always in gear - Found it a damn sight easier than a cast iron single rail J type into a Herald. Best to have the drain plug removed and a few cans of something first. Coarse spline is a help I reckon. I think fitting a gearbox to a 2000/2500 is a very intimate experience which will teach you to fix gearboxes and clutches properly the first time round LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 7 years ago I invested in a proper transmission jack complete with the special cradle for holding the box. It has the advantage of tilt options, four caster wheels (for 4 way movement) , higher lift, wider chassis so more stable etc. Bought it to make fitting a Range Rover engine and transfer box easier - which it most certainly did.In my yoof when I was fit, agile and handsome(whistle), I used to 'bench press' gearboxes into place (including Herald boxes a couple of times), then progressed (?) to a trolley jack. Before I bought the transmission jack, when using a trolley jack I eventually started to have the box on a 1/2inch ply 'plate' to which I bolted Dexion angle supports to cradle the box, and put this on the saddle of the jack. Much more stable and safer.If you were nearer to me I would readily offer you the loan of my transmission jack but the mortgage required for the Bridge and the petrol would make it uneconomic..... :(Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I've made a bit of a cradle out of 1'' angle and fitted it to my trolley jack. A hell of a lot easier than trying to balance it on the jack when working alone ! I know, done it both ways.I also use a couple of old 6'' bolts to line things up.The best of British Luck to you sir! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 1526 wrote: Bought it to make fitting a Range Rover engine and transfer box easier - which it most certainly did.Now Landrover gearbox and associated lead filled transfer cases are quite a different matter!!! Saw a forklift struggle with that lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Thanks all.Andy, I can relate to your Herald comments - that single rail J-type with CI bell is flippin' heavy! I've fitted that a few times over the years. The ally case W58 in the Vitesse is alot easier and lighter.I think I'll be using a variant of the trolley jack + homemade accessories routine. A special treat for this evening maybe.... :-/ Ted - appreaciate the offer - but geography is against us.CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 lagerzok wrote:Now Landrover gearbox and associated lead filled transfer cases are quite a different matter!!! Saw a forklift struggle with that lotYep seatbox out, engine hoist in through the door, gearbox & transfer box fitted ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt6s Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 lagerzok wrote:Now Landrover gearbox and associated lead filled transfer cases are quite a different matter!!! Saw a forklift struggle with that lotDone a couple of 4x4 boxes on my own (bench press method) all that weight of the transfer box hanging off one corner, a pure ba5tard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete PiEst Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Hi,First time round with Tony helping we went for the bench press knees, crap in eyes, cramped, F*&K they're heavy but got it in ... next time round found 2 scissor jacks bolted to a board with 4 castors, welded a couple of bits box section to a form a V on the front jack wound it up to the correct hight lowered the back one for the angle, gentle shove and it was in. What was an hour + farting about sweating and swearing turned in to a 10 minute job which left 50 minutes for drinking beer!! ... ok so we did do all the other stuff and then had a beer !Cheers,Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Now that.... is a very cunning idea! Top marks! I'm just one scissor jack short of the makings...... but doubtless the scrapyard can provide :)Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Richard_B wrote:Yep seatbox out, engine hoist in through the door, gearbox & transfer box fitted ;DYeah right! after removing the 10 thousand bolts that hold the seat box on ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Richard_B wrote:Yep seatbox out, engine hoist in through the door, gearbox & transfer box fitted ;DSlight problem with this - apart from nang's comment. The floor on a Range Rover from the late '80s is solid ........ :-/And Pete's idea - excellent and a durn sight cheaper than my transmission jack. It is possible to buy the cradles use on the transmission jack separately, which while not cheap would turn this into quite a universal tool. Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Oh, does that mean my 1988 Glenfrome 6-door will have a solid (rusty) floor? I know the roof unbolts. ??) My error, I think you mean the P38 with a welded up structure, quite unlike a Herald. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Richard_B wrote:Oh, does that mean my 1988 Glenfrome 6-door will have a solid (rusty) floor? I know the roof unbolts. ??) My error, I think you mean the P38 with a welded up structure, quite unlike a Herald.Not sure exactly when the change was made from bolted to solid floor (ignoring the rusty ones ;D) on the 'Classic'. It was mid to late 1980s but you would have to look to find out. When I scrapped my 1988 3.5 a couple of months ago I actually found it easier to cut out the solid floor around the gear/transfer box and whip it out that way using an engine crane than scramble underneath - but as I was having problems with my back and shoulder which made scrambling underneath difficult, and scrapping the car, it did not matter! All the roofs unbolt on the Classic - changed a solid roof for one with a sunroof on one occasion.Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 Well..... it's back in. Chickened out on the clutch release - gone back as standard more or less - just an extra bolt in the fork.As helpfully suggested by Pete, I made a little trolley to help me get it in. There were some design issues along the way though. You lot must have taller axle stands than I, as even with a "low profile trolley" and fully extended stands - no way was it going under the car on the trolley so I had to slide the 'box under first, then the trolley, then wrestle box onto the trolley...... which was quite challenging in the space available.Once there it did the job pretty easily though, so I'm calling it a win for now. Second design tip is don't get "smart" and use the plate from your old, broken gearmount as the rear attachment to the trolley - a simple yoke is much easier to manage.... over-design..... :BAll bellhousing bolts done - with 3/8" dowel bolts this time. Rear mount, propshaft (after fitting new joints) and exhaust to go.Not looking forward to the exhaust - some meat-head :B has snapped all the down-pipe studs off - have to fit my TR6 manifold now....Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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