James Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Now I know I put a quicker rack on mine, but...Having driven Tim's saloon it seemed to have much lighter steering - lighter than when mine had the old rack.Is there anything that can cause heavy steering on a big saloon? If it were a small chassis car I'd be out there with my grease gun oiling the trunnions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Worn out strut top bearings, particularly the thrust washers. Knackered bottom ball joints I suppose too as well as general suspension alignment. I guess your tyres and steering wheel are a similar size to Tim's?It may be my imagination but the steering on my car seemed a lot lighter after I renewed a worn out UJ in the steering column. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 I think Tim has roller bearing top mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzy Harris Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Get the gym and stop moaning ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Sorbs - might see about bearing top mounts as Jason says. His tyres are wider than mine. It felt like Tim's UJ is in similar condition to mine. For sure it makes a difference as I noticed it on the Spit once replaced. I have some new ball joints to go on - not sure about fitting them as I think its a bit of a job?Fuzzy - I only said it was heavier :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 HAving spent all weekend driving Russells Mk2 estate, I was amazed how light the steering was, especially compared to my Mk1PI and Mikeyb's pre-assisted Mk2PI.My car has NOS top bearings (can't afford Roller ones!) and new bottom ball joints. Standard Rack and Bus-sized wheel.Mke had evrything standard and a Stag sized wheel. That really was heavy!Russell has fat tyres as well.I think a lot of it is down to what tyres you have. Mky Mk3 spitfire is really light on it's 185/60 tyres, far lighter than when it had 145/80's fitted.James, what pressures in what tyres are you running??CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Well I am guessing there must be a relationship between grip and steering weight so I guess narrower tyres are holding the road more?My Spit with 145 was much lighter than anything I've driven with 185sI'm running 28 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Strut top mounts are the prime suspect I did the sheds just before the HCR much better but my strut insert had come loose in the mount on the RBR and shagged up the mount a bit ,running skiny 175/80 R14 tryes (because they came with the wheels and have lots of tread on them !) car handled bloody great (I had put ARB on for the HCR as well) lighter steering but nice feel when the corners tightened up on me a couple of times in Wales just put a bit mor lock on and a smidge of throttle and it kept gripping and turning in fine much much nicer feel than the 185/70 R13s with a dodgy strut top mount!Bottom ball joints are not to bad to do James -use a grinder to get the old one out slice the bottom off it and twat the f**ker ,refiting reversal of removal without the grinder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Cheers Andy - what are top mounts like to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 ajp wrote:use a grinder to get the old one out slice the bottom off it and twat the f**ker ,refiting reversal of removal without the grinder!That's poetry Andy, did you write the Haynes manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Mine has a quick rack and 225/50 x 15 sticky rubber with a 14 inch suede Sparco wheel. Parking is a bit stiff but on the move it is perfectly fine. Not much different in all honesty to my 2500 with PAS (which has a late 2500S PAS set up which seems infinitely heavier than some of the early Jag XJ6 style units)Tracking being spot on and new tyres help. Also I never run less than 32psi in the front tyres on the advice of an advanced racing driver instructor. This mucks up the ride a bit but reduces understeer and lightens up the steering no end.Funnily enough my mate has a TR6 with a 12 inch motalita , 195/55 race rubber and it has the lightest steering of any triumph I have driven above walking pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Mine has a quick rack and 225/50 x 15 sticky rubber with a 14 inch suede Sparco wheel. Parking is a bit stiff but on the move it is perfectly fine. Not much different in all honesty to my 2500 with PAS (which has a late 2500S PAS set up which seems infinitely heavier than some of the early Jag XJ6 style units)Tracking being spot on and new tyres help. Also I never run less than 32psi in the front tyres on the advice of an advanced racing driver instructor. This mucks up the ride a bit but reduces understeer and lightens up the steering no end.Funnily enough my mate has a TR6 with a 12 inch motalita , 195/55 race rubber and it has the lightest steering of any triumph I have driven above walking pace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 I've got new rubber and a 15" steering wheel. The tracking was done only a few weeks ago.I'll try increasing the pressure a little. (Which reminds me I want to buy myself a decent pressure gauge) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sorbington Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Resto Virgin wrote:Tell James he should be running at least 34 p.s.i.James, you should be running at least 34p.s.i. :)Maybe, like Resto, Tim is a bit of an economy freak and has lots of air in his tyres?The top mounts are easy enough to overhaul although if you can stand the cost the roller bearing type are probably better. You'll need spring compressors, and as I say, renew the thrust washers. From memory I think they act as the bearing surface which allows the strut to rotate against the top mount. I normally find that the rubber part of the mount with the 3 threaded bits which poke through the turret is good enough to re-use. You can press in a new bush if the mount is a piss fit on the damper rod so provided the rubber bit of the mount is OK you may get with just renewing the bush and washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 yep top mounts dont need a grinder or a good twating as the dark lord says thrust washers act as rotating surface,use a little graphite grease when putting back toggether if you have shortened springs you may not need a spring compressor original insert nuts tend to be castle jobbie with a split pin,replacements tend to use self locking nuts,replace these self lockers or pien over to make sure they dont come loose causing the insert to rattle about in the top mount- good exploded diagram in the haynes manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 rule of finger when put back toggether correctly should be able to just about rotate the top mount using one finger and should be zero play left right/up down etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 lagerzok wrote: a 14 inch suede Sparco wheel.You big poof! ;D... but I agree with the comment on the higher tyre pressures (although not with resto-sorbs of course) - I was advised to do this and it helps I run 32.If you can't be arsed to renew the top mounts try squirting some lubricant through the top of the strut mount... that's what i've done. I thought you replaced yours relatively recently though... maybe I dreamt it :BI was warned off the roller bearing mounts 'cos they'll be twitchy on the rough stuff :-/ not a problem for you fellas in ring-road land I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Oi ... don't you have Poof assisted Steering? ;D ;D ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 oh cripes I've been outed! :oActually, I detached the belt years ago intentionally*. I have SR steering now (Spinach Replacement).* not really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Greeks shut up you big assisted knocker the only thing making your car twitchy is the nut behind the wheel ;DAs an aside I have a nice 14" flat steering wheel lifted from a Morgan covered in cream "snow tiger fur" it compliments my efeminate black buckskin string back driving glovesBeen running these 175/80/R14 Firestone tyres @ 28 psi all round- what is the recomended pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I need to get my rear alignment sorted!I always run 29psi in the saloon.I find the turn-in on the saloon to be fine, the car handled superbly in the torrential rain in Wales on the last RBRR, actually surprised me, I was able to brake quite late for corners, sling it down a cog and power out. Well sort of 'Power Out'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 ajp wrote:As an aside I have a nice 14" flat steering wheel lifted from a Morgan covered in cream "snow tiger fur" it compliments my efeminate black buckskin string back driving glovesThe scary thing is... that's all you wear when you're driving (apart from a flat cap of course)ajp wrote:Been running these 175/80/R14 Firestone tyres @ 28 psi all round- what is the recomended pressure?In your car I recommend 55psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mj17 Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 ajp wrote:Bottom ball joints are not to bad to do James -use a grinder to get the old one out slice the bottom off it and twat the f**ker ,refiting reversal of removal without the grinder!Or if you have a friendly garage with a press that you can get to without your 2000, drop the lower wishbones and winder down. Five minutes later you will be heading home with two nice new balljoints in your wishbones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 timbancroft61 wrote:I need to get my rear alignment sorted!Oh dear Tim I find with the onsett of age a couple of pads help....whats wrong with it? take you have superflex bushing? and the Datsun drive shaft mod? if not do it -transforms the car Greeks and Ellis have complimented me on my tight back end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Not sure I can fit the datsun shafts and keep the Revolutions?Must say I find the rear shafts ok, as long as well greased!Nick Jones thought my car is showing some poor rear alignment when he followed me to Southwold the other day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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