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James

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Must admit when I looked at it I thought your wheels looked "too tucked in" if you see what I mean-go to a MK2 rear end -are your revs 6J? should still fit- my cheesys are 6J -but do have a skinny tyre on

Hve you lowered it too much? CW does the spacers etc to compensate -cant remember the ins and outs or the rear geometry would have to read up on it

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So Greeks, you disconnected your power steering?

Oh, hang on, I just noticed your disclaimer!  ;D

Disturbing to hear all this talk of rear ends.  I spent a fair bit of time beneath a 2500S this afternoon, the rear end of which was being polybushed.

Top tip, use a twatting great hole saw to remove the old bushes.  It's far more fun than hi tech pullers etc!

Just watch out for the flying globs of molten, searing hot rubber!

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Indeed, and anything more than a couple of mm between tyre and arch at the rear is a waste :-) Widetrack suspension, Stag brakes, spacers to get over the Stag drums and I have an extravagant 2 mm after a little tickle of both t he arches and the drums with the grinder - the raised lettering on Stag drums was interfering with the wheel/spacer fit and the shape of the KN Gemini wheel clashes with the Stag drums but after some minor surgery, it all fits 8)

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ajp wrote:
only if you put them in the boot!


;D yes, very funny, honestly though, could I have a problem should I do some offset checking before I go buying tyres and getting wheel nuts made, I believe they used to live on a TR6 before I had them, swapped for a set of HS6s

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Yes you should check the offset before you buy some tyres. I tried some TR6 steel wheels on my Mk1 but they stuck out by a couple of inches (but my car has MK 2 rear suspension) so if you have MK 1 suspension you might be ok. My car now has 15 x 7J wheels with 205/60/15 Yoko tyres the clearance between the tyre & wheel arch lip is aprox 15mm. I brought my wheels from CW not cheap I know but at least I knew they would fit.

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Right, thanks guys, I too have MK11 rear suspension it's the only way to go, I used 6j x 14s and 195 70s on my MK1 saloon with MK11 suspension and thinking back they were a bit on the tight side, I think it was only the  negative camber that saved the day

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  • 3 years later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Recently greatly lightened the steering on my Mk2 PI (which also has 7 tooth pinion "quick-rack") by pumping up the tyres a bit more to 33 psi (were about 29-30) and checking tracking again which was slightly toe-out giving it a light vague feeling about the straight-ahead quickly weighting up as lock was applied.  Now it's slightly toe-in it feels less vague in the straight ahead and doesn't seem to weight up so much as lock is applied.

Nick

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Ah, yes..... parking/low speed maneuvers....... cheaper than joining a gym!

I have most bits to add PAS, but this involves effort, rethinking my trigger wheel arrangements (so I can add the PAS pulley) and it has also been suggested (correctly I fear) that the PAS rack will want to be in the same place as a corner of the TR6 exhaust manifold......  Enough to make me lie down until the feeling goes away!

Nick

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