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overdrive not holding when accelerating


Mollysdad

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Seems to disengage in that you feel it drop out in the same way that it would it you'd switched it out or more that the revs rise a bit akin to clutch slip?  If you back off, does it come back in?

Could be as simple as a wiring issue being tweaked by the torque reaction under power.  Gearbox oil level ok?  OD switch in gearstick or on the column?

Nick

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Had a 2500 that drove me insane doing this. Turned out to be the switch on the gear stick. In frustration one day I took the switch cover off, pulled the two wires out and drove down the road holding the two together. It worked  > All of my J type problems have been electrical.
Tony.

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Seems to disengage in that you feel it drop out in the same way that it would it you'd switched it out or more that the revs rise a bit akin to clutch slip?  If you back off, does it come back in?

Could be as simple as a wiring issue being tweaked by the torque reaction under power.  Gearbox oil level ok?  OD switch in gearstick or on the column?

Nick


Hi, yes oil level is fine but I haven't changed it and wondered if a refresh might help, suppose it can't 'not help'.

Will have a drive today and see if I can tell if it's more slipping than dropping out but I thought it felt like it was dropping out like I'd switched it off and came back in again as I backed off but now I'm not sure!

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Hi Mollysdad,
                   I don;t know the layout of the Vitesse but this can happen on the TR4A/5/6 cars if the rubber boot around the gearstick is stiff or badly placed.

Also if the switches on the top cover are only just making, any movement of the gearstick could cause that effect.

Does it happen in ALL the OD gears.

Roger

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ok, I changed the oil just in case and took out for a spin.

It seems fine in 3rd, holds in even under acceleration and cuts out at the flick of the switch (on stalk). In 4th however it seems to drop out on acceleration and cut in again when backing off so I assume there must be a wiring issue on the gearbox that is only apparent when in 4th.

Will have to pull the cover and take a look.

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I'm having much the same problem on my 2.0 Spitfire. I can hear the solenoid clicking when engaged (gear stick switch), and it will eventually drift in (slipping clutch sounds just right), but after a few seconds and quite reluctantly. Then under power, and usually when hot, it will slur out- but onlysometimes. Back off the power, and it'll go back in, and stay in for miles. Switching out will be immediate. I think happens in 3 as well as 4, but will check tomorrow. I reckon low oil. If it is, am I running the risk of damaging it?
Thx all. Steve.

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Could be any of the under tunnel wiring really but the 3rd ok, 4th not makes me suspect the limiter switch on the end of the selector rod.

Nick


correct yet again Nick. Thanks.

Have ordered a new one but the quality will probably be crap!

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MDofTW : That sounds like a different problem to Mollysdad's, most likely down to worn out hydraulics, low oil level or very old oil.

The very definite cutting out and back in sounds electrical, probably the inhibitor switch like Nick suggests. I had something similar on a Stag, which turned out to be due to a previous owner having fitted two washers on the inhibitor switch instead of one - the result being that it only just closed when cold and failed to close once the gearbox housing had expanded as it warmed up.

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Thx all; agree with you Iain, though can actually hear it clicking too (softwood, roof always down). Rob, agree too, Oil check to be made over the w/e, but I think oil state / level is the root of the problem. Will advise when poss. Cheers. Steve s

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the inhibitor switch is set with poor shim washers , or if nowt else bend the bracket a little

if set to just about make contact  it doesnt take much temperature and tower /cam / bracket wear and tear to allow drop out when hot

some of the SA range switches can be uncrimped and cleaned out they can be very 'green' inside

worth a try

Pete

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