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Doors not shutting due to new door cards !


JP

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I just fitted out my car with a new interior and door rubbers and am finding that where the door rubbers meet the new door cards there is too much resistance and door won't shut...  anyone else had this issue ? what did you do ?


All I can think to do aytm is trim the door rubbers down.

They don't even shut with a good ol push so I don;t think it's a case of bedding down, they do go to the latch position but not proper closed.

Also I have fit some nice thick carpets+sound deadening and new seat foam etc and my head now touches the soft top ! is that normal? I'm avg height 5'10" should I cut the carpet/sound dead to sink the seat runners!



thanks in advance.


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If you were the average 5.6ft your head wouldn't be rubbing on the roof ;)
These new cards, is the carpet on them thickish ..Wilton shag pile sort of thing, as the ones on my GT6, has a sort of brushed fabric/hair on the bottom, and it's not very thick, it may be the new ones have gained in size :-/

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Hi JP

I had same problem when i restored my door cards and seals. I was about to uncover the edges of the door card and trim about 5mm off the sides and bottom. However, I managed to get them fully latched closed and left them for 2 weeks. The door seals did compress down and the doors although still binding a little, do close much easier now.

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Do your seals have a lip profile, or a bubble section? The former is correct, the latter isn't.
If you have lip seals and the doors still won't shut, then look at other possible causes. There are very few sources for lip seals and I've yet to see one which caused a problem (first time for everything though). Many suppliers offer an oversize bubble profile instead and this is usually problematic,

Cheers,
Bill.

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lip seal is essentially a top flap (ie like bubble seal but with the lower half of the bubble missing) that acts as a 'gasket' does on say soe double glazed window openers. Flap only has half the material that the bubble type does. Hope this makes sense.

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3122 wrote:
Can you get the right ones? I've got original seals, but they're quite a long way beyond their optimum performance days!


You can get a very good match for the profile, but without the fabric finisher. The finisher itself is available (woven up to Mk3, plush for MkIV & 1500) but has to be stitched and/or glued to the body of the seal - one for the masochists,

Cheers,
Bill.

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JP wrote:
I have bubble ones so hopefully that explains it.




The bubble makes the doors bounce (air can't escape fast enough) when you shut them, but you should still be able to close them with a push.

My car had them fitted when I got it and being the tight bastard I am I can't a slither out along their length. Took two minutes and is "good enough".

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heraldcoupe wrote:


You can get a very good match for the profile, but without the fabric finisher. The finisher itself is available (woven up to Mk3, plush for MkIV & 1500) but has to be stitched and/or glued to the body of the seal - one for the masochists,

Cheers,
Bill.


When I do my door seals I'll have to get that piece of fabric then?

Bill, I don't suppose you know of a supplier? ;)

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JP wrote:
The rubbers were from a stall at Leatherhead many moons ago he did 'all' the rubbers I'd need for my complete resto. Seem to know his stuff as he was prompting me for what I'd need.


In other words he was steering you towards what he had....... ;D
I used the lip seals on my Herald, second time around after first trying bubble, and the doors shut first time every time, unlike the 'bouncing' they did before. Gaps aren't bad but then the welder didn't know to twist the skin on the frame before welding to give the correct alignment.
BTW I'm 6'4, and fit in the GT6 and Herald quite easily... although I needed a smaller steering wheel on both.

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