Herald rear hubs

[tomtrumpet]

Hello, I,m in the process of rebuilding the rear hubs on my 66 1200 Herald. I've tried everything at my disposal to pull the rear hubs without damaging either the hub flange or the half shafts, I have tried a very high quality Sykes hydraulic puller a slide hammer and adapted my old mini flywheel puller, non have been successful.

My choices now are to buy a specific puller, or take them to a specialist. Could anyone recommend a cost effective puller or point me in the direction of a specialist in the Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, Leicestershire area that could pull these damn things off!!!!

[nang]

Unfortunately you 'll need a proper puller or you'll distort the flange. Someone on here, near to you may have one to lend or you could buy one from Canleys or Rimmers. They're not cheap though.
Don't persist with any other puller though. The taper one the shaft and hub make it almost impossible.
Tony.

[Clive]

You may have already distorted teh hub, do check carefully. I have a t shirt from long ago. As above ONLY the proper puller will do the job without fear of bending anything.
There shoudl be somebody up that way able to do the job.

be aware if the bearing is noisy at all the halfshaft will also be scrap. The needle rollers run direct on the shaft

[Jonny-Jimbo]

If you can travel a little further, KD Triumph is in Coventry just off the M6, close to the M69 junction. Tell him Jimbo sent you...

[tomtrumpet]

Cheers chaps, Coventry is not too far so I may tootle up there.

Half shaft is not noisey but there is end float ie. The bearing carrier moves along the shaft about 1mm but not at 90deg to the shaft so hopefully the shaft is ok?

[johnmosborneuk]

Having recently had the same issue I would highly recommend the puller that eBay seller sponmon sells; his puller is very well engineered and worked a treat 😀

[tomtrumpet]

Once the hub is off is bearing replacement fairly straightforward? I've done most jobs on this car but never been in the rear hubs!

[RobPearce]

Usually, yes. The bearings normally come off easily (unlike on the Rotoflex hubs) and go back on with the usual bit of a push. Refitting the hub is very simple, except for the matter of holding it firmly enough to achieve the 120lbft torque (but you can postpone that until it's on the car, with the wheels on to hold it still).

[Rallyspit]

Is Worksop near enough for you? I have the correct puller which you could borrow. My technique is to tighten the puller onto the hub flange and - instead of getting a hernia - I put the whole lot in a vice and set an air gun (on the lowest torque setting) banging away at the nut. Heat also helps. It normally takes 10/15 minutes to shock it apart. Always use a new hub nut on reassembly. It may however be that you've already bent the hub flanges - in which case I could also have some spares, assuming they are the same as a Mk3 Spitfire. PM me if interested.

Mike

[tomtrumpet]

Cheers for the help chaps and thanks for the offer Mike that's very kind of you.

I've been in touch with kd triumph, Karl said he'd remove the hubs for me and I'll also be able to buy any bits I need once I'm there aswell.

Glad the bearings a easy once the hub is off, I'm presuming it's the ball bearing that controls end play so that's where the wear in mine must be.

[Hallum]

I went to do mine not to long ago to discover this horror 🤔  Needle rollers had collapsed this was the result to the half shaft. Still makes me shiver now 😉

[Scimher]

....My car is off the road, at the moment, making a noise from the rear off-side hub.....The annoying thing is that it is the same driveshaft & bearing that were replaced about 5yrs. & 15,000miles ago - said items being furnished by a reputable specialist...   

[tomtrumpet]

Still not got the hubs off, can't get in touch with kd, they seem quite elusive.

I may take you up on your offer rally Spit!

In the mean time I have compiled quite a list of parts I need and I was wondering if anyone had any advice on good suppliers?  Back 5/6 years ago when I had my spit i used trgb, rimmers, Canley classics and chic doig. Service from all 3 was fine but with varying price differences, rimmers being pricey. As long as I get good quality parts for reasonable cost and knowledgable staff I'm happy.

Anyone any advice?

[Clive]

i happily use James paddock and Canleys.
Paddocks handily do free postage these days over £10, which is always a nice bonus

[Rallyspit]

Hi Tom,

PM sent

[tomtrumpet]

Public thanks to rally spit!

I went to his house yesterday and we battled fo well over an hour to free the hubs. One came off in seconds but the other was a real pig.

The method that got it in the end was to heat the hub with the puller off as it acts as a big heat sink! And then use a air driven wrench rattle it and then a punch placed through the hand brake hole in the back plate with a couple of whacks off it came.

Again many thanks rally.

Will report back on shaft condition later today!

[tomtrumpet]

Oh I forgot to ask in my last post if anyone had any advice of how to get the trunnions off the shaft, my triumph factory is manual is missing that page!

My circa 1965 Haynes manual suggests some how pushing the trunnions further onto the shaft so a puller can be placed on the bearing? Don't quite understand that?

My thought its to put a puller on the trunnions and pull it off bearings and all?

Thanks Tom.

[Pete Lewis]

if always just put the shaft in a vice to support the trunion and used a soft headed mallet to knock the shaft out of the bearing housing

on refit get it close to its original position and refitting the hub and nut will pull the shaft through to its running position,
check the drum and back plate are in there respective positions as there is no register to position the bearing  ,, wonderful design

Pete

[tomtrumpet]

Ok I'll give knocking it out a go.

Yes it has occurred to me there is no positive location point for the trunnions, my factory manual gives a dimension measured from the end of the shaft to the bearing face of 2.625" which must be wrong as that would not allow the hub to even fit!

Looking again at the manual cross sectional drawing the front face of the hub is in contact with the inner bearing race so I'm thinking lightly locate the, knock the trunnions up to the face of the hub and then torque up the nut?

All in all odd design as the only thing that keeps the run ion in place on the shaft is friction from the ball race!!! Must work though.

[tomtrumpet]

Trunnions are off! I'm going to attempt to attach some pics of one of the half shaft as it has some marks where the needle bearing runs, i Think it's servicable but would just like to run past you fellas.

the play in one of the trunnions appears to be slight bearing wear but oddly in the other the ball bearing is loose in the trunnion! I'm wondering if someone has fitted the wrong bear or the trunnion has somehow worn?

very strange!

[Richard B]

I would say not servicable. The roller bearing runs directly on the shaft and that looks like the hardening has gone.

[tomtrumpet]

Certainly on the edge.

Like a fool I put a new UJ on before checking. If I get a new shaft I wonder if I could carefully remove the UJ and put it on the new shaft without damaging it?

[thescrapman]

That does not look reusable.

For refitting I am sure I read (from an expert) that you just torque up the hub and the trunnion housing ends up in the right place.

It makes sense if you think about it.

[tomtrumpet]

looks like it may be a new shaft then

The trunnion will only end up in the right position if it is fitted close enough to the end to enable the hub to push it to the correct position, if it does not contact the hub it cannot be pulled up by the nut and will require knocking up to the hub.......the question is which way is best?

[thescrapman]

That was. What I intended to say. Fit too close to end and let hub push it to correct position.