Talkwrench Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Guys how hard is it to pull the rear hubs? Seems like there is two 1/4" nf holes do you just use a standard puller? Are they on a taper and key like an early Ford? How much torque is it to do them up? I want to replace the wheel studs for larger ones as I lost 3 wheels studs at over 65 mph and it was a bit scary.. Can someone suggest where I might buy the studs? Also I need to use those stupid sleeve nuts ( for mags) to go with.. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 To pull the hubs you MUST use the Churchill tool, buy/borrow one or findsdomebody to do it for you. Trying almost an other tool will bend the hub.The 2 holes are probably the ones that are meant for the drum retaining scrtews?If you just want to put bigger studs in, the origals will knock out OK, but you can drill a hole in the backplate to fit the larger studs, blank with a grommit after.I used foird 12mm studs, but I believe the freelander versions are a better fit. Available lots of places. EBay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Yes, Freelander studs will pull straight in, done it on my Spit. As Clive said , leave the hubs alone unless you have the correct puller. I used MGF nuts as I fitted MGF wheels.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu 1986 Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 You don't even have to drill the back plate, remove the brake parts & there is enough room to knock out & install the studs. Use an old wheel nut to pull them through. This is what I did on Rarebits Bill's recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 1953 wrote:You don't even have to drill the back plate, remove the brake parts & there is enough room to knock out & install the studs. Use an old wheel nut to pull them through. This is what I did on Rarebits Bill's recommendation. This is true for the standard studs only. Anything else will need a hole drilling in the backplate. Drilling a hole is best done from the back and will be less aggro than removing (or trying to remove) the hub.Assuming you can get suitable sleeve nuts with M12 threads (size of holes in the slot mags may prevent this) then Freelander studs are a very good solution. Otherwise 7/16" UNF as used on TR7 /later Dolly Sprint will probably do it.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talkwrench Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Ok well maybe I'll go down that path. SO you just knock them out [one is loose already] when you put them in from the back is it then just left up to doing up the wheel nuts to press them in. Thought it would have taken more than that..? Front you just remove the disc and pull apart , no probs there , I have a press for that side of it?Yes I will have to double check the sleeve nuts available, nothing worse than doing all that and finding nothing will fit ..pft! Is there any particular pitch on those M12's [freelander]? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Grayston engineering do a wide variety of nuts and adapters to suit most wheels.Not available direct from them (I have tried!) but they will point you to local suppliers, who then get them in.http://www.grayston.biz/wheelnutmenu.htmand freelander/ford/mgf etc are 12x1.5, very common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 What about unbolting the brake backing plate and just angling it around as needed? Is that possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talkwrench Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Maybe you can pull the backing plate away? Might use a stepper drill and drill the hole if required.. Found a place online in the UK, some 4x4 shop that sells the studs for $13.75 AUD for 5 so I sent an email to see what price they could do 16 for. I think I have found the right sleeve nuts here in Oz for $45 inc the washers plus shipping.. SO getting somewhere.. Attached is the result of my flogging the red devil.. think it was the sideways around the roundabout that did the damage ; o P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu 1986 Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 I have a set of cobra superslots (slot mags) which I've had restored and fitted to the car using a brand new set of nuts from Mister Tee. Here is his site: http://www.mistertee.co.uk He is uk based but has a good selection of types & styles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Hello Talkwrench, carefully inspect the rear of the wheel to ensure that it goes over the raised centre of the hub, and seats firmly onto the brake drum. That was the reason I broke a couple of studs on my car.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 You can get Freelander studs for about £1 each in the UK.Not sure what the AUD to GBP rate is at the moment.CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Lug nut king on oz ebay is pretty good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talkwrench Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 Managed to pick up the studs locally Andy from rovacraft should get them in the mail in afew days $3.50 each. The sleeve nuts $60 from the auto store. I'm sure the mag sits ok Alec but I will double check when refittingSo how do I press the studs in the rear hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 26, 2014 Share Posted August 26, 2014 Put stud in, then use a stack of washers or a spacer and put a nut on and do up. Simple as that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talkwrench Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Ok nice and simple.. Now could I trouble someone that's put a hole in the backing plate to take a picture of where it was done... Im looking and I don't quite get where the hole should be drilled there a ridge in line where the studs are ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 piman wrote:Hello Talkwrench, carefully inspect the rear of the wheel to ensure that it goes over the raised centre of the hub, and seats firmly onto the brake drum. That was the reason I broke a couple of studs on my car.AlecAlec is correct. When I fitted MGF rims to my Spit I turned about 20 thou off the hubs, wheel was too tight. Only turned the outer bit so as to leave the brake drum centred. (Hope this makes sense) Mind you I had the hubs off ;D Maybe your rims are ok.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 9016 wrote:Ok nice and simple.. Now could I trouble someone that's put a hole in the backing plate to take a picture of where it was done... Im looking and I don't quite get where the hole should be drilled there a ridge in line where the studs are ?Right next to the flange, at 3 or 9. You may be able to get away with it being slightly away from it but mine are a little bit longer than the long studs so I haven't got a lot of wiggle room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 This help at all? Remembered to take a snap as I was putting the back end together. Excuse the mess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 just to add , the front ones depending on the size of the forged head can in some cases pitch on the machined register on the back of the hub, simple to file or grind a small chamfered relief to keep t clear or the stud will be pitched at an angle,when you split the discs off make sure the hub and disc mating surfaces are clean and 'flat' or you will likely get some disc runoutPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talkwrench Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 All helps guys.. I have all the stuff I need now so will get into it soon and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talkwrench Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Look at the size difference in the studs! Just doing the front at the mo'. what is up with the dust cover for the hub nut, what bright spark came up with the idea of not putting a lip on it so you can get it off, Bashing, crashing, punching it around I finally got it removed I think I wasted half the time just trying to get that simple part off... Pfft! unbelievable.. Anyway one wheel is done phew... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Brazing a nut (I used 1/4" UNF) on the cap, then tapping through, will make future removal easier.Fitting a short machine screw when not pulling will keep muck out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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