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Triumph Stag Rescue


Matt306

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17 hours ago, Matt306 said:

Nick I was reading an earlier posting of yours this afternoon about a Spit your son took on! 

🙂 Yeah….. but the Spit has a chassis to use as a jig…… and ours was in good shape. Anyway, I think the Stag might be a bit rustier…..

Respect!

Nick

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1 hour ago, Nick Jones said:

🙂 Yeah….. but the Spit has a chassis to use as a jig…… and ours was in good shape. Anyway, I think the Stag might be a bit rustier…..

Respect!

Nick

I read a book on stag restorations which say the T bar provides loads of strength. Nevertheless I braced the door opening.

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Moving to the suspension mounts I have this problem and the cross member rusted below. My solution was to drill out the spot welds on the closing panel at the top. This allows access to repair the cross member and rear chassis outrigger. 

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Today's job was repair the heel board. This will allow strength across the car and support the floor. I can then fabricate repair panels for the cross member before thinking what I'm to do with the bracket then I can put the closing panel back in. 

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54 minutes ago, Ben Hutchings said:

This is just... huge. I have no idea how you fathom where to start with something like this.

Well done Matt, I shall watch with awe and interest. 

I picked the worst side first as the other would have more strength.  It would be easier to weigh it in but I repair the cars for a hobby and fun. All my cars came in varying states of rot.

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I am back to work today so work will be rested. I think next plan maybe to put the sill Outer on. 

 

Thanks for all the comments it's good to read. I'll keep adding the pics.

Bear in mind I am self taught with pretty basic tools so if I can do it ... have a go .

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I note you said you had braced the door gaps  - absolutely essential in my view - but does your bracing allow you refit the doors to check the fit?  Also very highly desirable in my view.....

On the Spit we did go to some lengths to make sure the doors could be refitted and the brace design even incorporated a jack screw so we could move things about to improve the fit - necessary in our case because the rot was bad enough that the shape of the car had been lost - but hopefully not in yours!!

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 30/07/2021 at 17:07, Matt306 said:

Moving to the suspension mounts I have this problem and the cross member rusted below.

My Stag had that problem on the 2000 RBRR. We got to Fleet with one end of the rear subframe hanging off, leading a bystander from another team to say "That's not supposed to be like that". Since we hadn't noticed any seriously bad behaviour, and since Fleet was the last control before the end, we carried on and completed the run.

Your repair work looks excellent.

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Cheers all, lovely to read the positive comments, when my back is aching and I feel like whacking it with a lump hammer it'll keep me going. 

 

The Stag has had a bit of a rest this week as I had to fix the TR7 rear wheel bearings and fitter better brake cylinders.  I'll be posting more soon.

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Small posting today. The drivers door was always bigger then the passenger door so the door gaps were tiny. I guessed this is because of a resin of the door at some time. I attacked the inside edge of the door. 

I found the door frame and a huge over lap before the fold. Both doors need work so this was an exploration. Included is a comparison with the passenger door. I drew a black line to highlight the door frame edge.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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