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Front pulley bolt


greenmgf

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You don't need a socket to turn the engine over by hand.  Just grab the pully and turn that.  If you can't get the engine to turn by grabbing the pulley, you are either a 5 stone weakling or there is something seriously wrong with the engine.

On a 1500 (Spitfire I assume) the nut is 1,13/16"  (or 46mm in new money)  It is the same size as the hub nuts on a Metro, so the socket is readily available.

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you may be able to turn it by the alernater pulley as well, if it slip push your finger on the belt for tension and keep turning, like said above you should not need a socket for the pulley unless your removing the pulley - i have a cold chisel for that  :o

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  • 4 weeks later...

depends if the engine is in the car or out of it. Am ssuing its out cos you want to take the pulley off, I jam my crank by putting a rubber handled mallet in the engine, then getting a long torque bar and a 46mm socket

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Hi nige i have the engine out on the floor i have put a piece of wood in to stop the crank turning and using long torque bar and a 46mm socket it will not move next week end heating it up  with gas welding gear hope that will crack it!!

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spitty1977 wrote:
Hi nige i have the engine out on the floor i have put a piece of wood in to stop the crank turning and using long torque bar and a 46mm socket it will not move next week end heating it up  with gas welding gear hope that will crack it!!


hi.. either that or get a longer bar!  you could try hitting it very hard with a cold chisel and lump hammer to break the seal that forms.. often the shock of this is enough to make it easier to undo.. i konw all about how to shift high torque nuts.. i have a VW Camper!... it undoes the normal way.. no opposite thread BTW

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'Tis is a right hand thread.
To remove a tight nut, or bolt, as this is, use the correct size ring spanner or socket, with an extension if practicable.
Put as much pull on it as can be done by hand and then strike the ring spanner or socket bar AS CLOSE TO THE RING OR SOCKET AS POSSIBLE in the correct direction.
This will give the maximum shock to break the grip.
If you hit further out on the handle much of the energy will be absorbed in the spring of the handle and also jar the hand putting tension on the handle.
(Best to get someone else to apply the tension just in case you strike it too far out, it can hurt.)
A heavy hammer, a pound or so, with a forceful blow is the most efficient.

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Shock is the key to undoing them, sustained force is usually ineffective until you get to massive levels of torque. An air-powered impact wrench will have it undone in no time flat, no need to jam the crank either. Failing that, an appropriate socket 2-foot breaker bar will do just as well, use a snatch action rather than continuous effort,
Cheers,
Bill.

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I've not checked on my GT6 but doing this on my Toyotas is simple.  Put a socket on the pully nut wit ha  long bar attached to the socket.  Turn the bar until it jams against the frame.  Get in car and give the starter motor a turn.  The starter motor will loosen the nut first try.  As I said I'm not sure what direction the Triumph motors turn or if you can jam the long handled socket against the frame.  

I just thought I'd toss this out as general knowledge.  It works very well everytime........just run your motor first to make sure it turns in the right direction.

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Speaking of the heat treatment:
For those of us without oxygen and acetylene bottles, what is a good commercially-available solution?

Propane torches don't really heat big metal bolts red hot, but what about Mapp gas or the Mapp/Oxygen setups that are available?

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Without Oxy-Acetylene, MAPP gas & Oxygen is the next best thing, followed by MAPP gas and air.

MAPP gas is liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) mixed with methylacetylene-propadiene.

MAPP gas combustion temperature in oxygen is 2927 °C.
Acetylene combustion temperature in oxygen is 3160 °C.

MAPP gas combustion temperature in air is 2010 °C
Propane gas combustion temperature in air is 1899 °C

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