zhcj Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 any help appreciated heremy vitesse 6 runs and starts great when cold after about 20 mins driving it starts to splutter misfiring then cuts out.the engine will not start again until its cooled down at least 45 mins ive replaced the Coil, plugs, points, condensor rotor arm dis cap all HT leads.there is fuel pumping from the pump when the engine turns over but will not fire. there seems to be a spark at the points when the ignition is on.could this be the distributor itself or a fuel problem, it does run rich and the plugs in town driving are black but are a brick red colour on a run.i was told there are loads of faulty rotor arms around that break down when hot but ive got a few it cannot be all of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Just a thought, I would check the carb float valves. I had a similar problem which got worse over time and would not start at all due to the valves permanently stuck open. It may not be cure your problem but worth checking to eliminate a possible cause Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 thanks i can check that the carbs were overhauled two years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 could this be over fueling it certainly uses a lot of fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Are you sure the choke is returning fully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 not sure i can check would that cause this problem after driving say 15 miles but then having to let the engine cool down before it would re start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spider Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 The float valves may not be sticking open all of the time just over fuelling until it comes to a stop then the excess fuel evaporates during the stopped/cooling down period enough to start again. When it stops lift the bonnet and see if there is any fuel dripping from the float bowl or a strong smell of fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Is the run of the fuel line original? Could be vapour lock if pipe is too close to the hot bits.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elma fud Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Sounds like over fuelling, had this on a Fiesta and as you did l changed everything even had it check a at an auto tuner, wasn't until l stripped the head of in desperation l had the inlet manifold off and turned it upside down and the emulsion tube fell out :-/ screwed it back in and all was fine ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 sounds like fuel then maybe theg problem spoke to someone who rebuilds distributors as i thought that may be breaking down when its hot inside under the base plate but apparently im informed there isnt that much in there that could cause this problem.i did have the carbs re-jetted couple of year back by a triumph expert it didnt do it before then. so i wonder it does seem to use a lot of fuel i checked its MPG and it was 17 MPG which isnt good around town Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I very much doubt this is anything to do with fuelling. But....does your rotor arm collection consist of black shiny ones with the brass bit riveted on, that came in a Lucas box? If so, before you do anything else at all, throw the whole lot straight in the bin and get yourself one of the quality replacements that the distributor doctor sells, which are made to original spec. I think you'll find that this will solve your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 yes they are someone said that these are no good and are breaking down. ill check whom you say but i think i did check this in the past and as mine is a delco distributor he didn't do one.i have at least half a dozen of these rotors they cannot all be faulty can theyas another thing when i had the new jets fitted he same person fitted a replacement fuel pump as the original was thought to be weak but its not a vit 6 pump it had to have the pump lever arm modified to fit . its all silver with no glass dome on top . its for another triumph not sure which it was maybe a 2 litre. could this replacement pump cause over fueling, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougBGT6 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I had the same symptoms, I'd 15 miles or so and the engine would die, then after 10 - 20 minutes I could start again.What was happening was an accumulation of sludge was trapped in the fuel line, this slowly moved around blocking the flow and starving the engine of fuel. Then after 10 - 20 minutes the sludge would settle enough to re-establish the flow and off we'd go again. I got on the trail of this after fitting a plastic fuel filter and realizing it was empty when ever it happened. :)I replaced all the rubber sections of the fuel line and dyno-roded out the metal pipes with strimmer plastic flex. Sorted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 thats interesting thanks for that ill check the fuel line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Its very common for slivers of rubber shaved off when pushin onto metal pipes float back and fort then blocking the back ofnthe needle valve, when the pressure dispates the bits float clear and of you go tillmthe next timeare running strombergs or solex downdrafts on your 1600 ??if you have a delco dizzy the riveted rotor problems dosnt applyand what air cleanersif strombergs are on make sure none of the front face ports are covered by gasket or cleaner box pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 they are strombergs ill check the filter housing but i dont think the gasget has fallenwhy do you say the delco rotors and the rivets which is much documented don't apply to ive ordered an expensive rotor from the DD to see if that makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 907 wrote:it does run rich and the plugs in town driving are black Had a similar problem on my wifes 2000 Estate. I was convinced that it was ignition, which it was in a way.The spark plugs were so choked up, that it could not fire properly when hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 Its only lucas repro rotors that fail delcomare generally ok.you can test rotors easytakenoff dizzy caphold coip ht lead 10mm above the rotorget engine cranked overif spark jumps to the rotor its stuffedif it doesnt its okpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 ill check that thanks ive got this new one now from DD the rivet is in a different place on this one.i dont think its the rotor though ive got to many of them for them all to be duffers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 sorry about the typo's its old fingers on tablet ... not good.do the pistons with the dashpot out drop with nice clunk ??do they have what i call the thames barrier choke or a stating valve on the side of the front one ??a 1600 should not have piston springs just a heavier weight holding the diaphragm in place, ??springs make mid range to rich do you know what needles are fitted ||???Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Hi petethanks for your reply all techie question for me im afraid im no expert on the carbs on this car.the pistons do drop with a clunk when you press something on the side of each carb excuse my ignorance here on what it is i press.re the barrier choke i dont know i could send you a picture?the needles were replaced by a guy called max totally triumph in Cheshire he knew what he was doing do im assuming the correct needles are fitted it doesn't say on the invoice which ones. he cleaned the carbs out at the same time im convinced its running rich the plugs are black and it doesn't need much choke after it has started . needs the choke to fire from cold and thats it. its an odd choke as it doesnt increase the engine revs just makes it richer to start the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bxbodger Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 If you're pressing what's called the lifting pin on the side of the carb (with the damper out) and the piston is dropping back with a clunk then the jet is properly centred, one less thing to worry about. Thames barrier type choke is sort of self explanatory, when you look down the carb throat and get someone to pull the choke out, you'll see a bar rotate round and come up, just like the Thames Barrier does. I'm still not convinced its anything to do with fuelling though, fuel issues related to heat normally sort themselves out pretty quickly, whereas with ignition problems it can take forever to restart. I still think its ignition related, just because parts are new doesn't .mean they're any good- coils for example, they seem just too cheap these days.One other thing, a long shot at this time of year......you haven't got a kenlowe or similar fan fitted? My car did, it caused all sorts of bother with fuel vaporisation in heavy traffic, all sorted the instant i binned the dreadful thing for the standard crank driven fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 hi peteno its a standard fan ill try this new DD rotor and maybe another coil even though the one on isnt to old do you know if the coil is a ballast type i think is the word just checking i was sold the correct one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 1600 wont be a ballasted feed, should be std 12v 3 ohm coilbeware some balled 6v coilsmare actually marked as 12v just to makenconfusion.make sure the coil is wired with correct polaritythe lead tomthe dizzy must be on same polarity as the battery earthif battery is neg earth then dizzy wire goes on the -ve terninalif its +ve earth then dizzy to the + on the coilhaving it reversed gives good unreliable frustation.the choke must open the throttle to around 1200 when full, outon the side is a cam which operates a short adjustable bolt that shouls have a small gapwith choke off, but as soon as you pull the control the cam must hit the bolt head and startto open up your idlethe small bolt has a locknut have a read of www.buckeyetriumphs.orgnever mind thr TR heading look at technical and scroll to strombergs the pictures and script are excellant , wont cover exactly what you have but has all the clues to enlighten .petepete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zhcj Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 thanks petetoday i have changed the coil , a new rotor from the DD expensive but that may the the cause and replaced the fuel line from the tank to the pipe it was a bit wet at the tank end and maybe sucking in air?ran it for 20 mins down a motorway all ok, im certainly not confident that's the ens of this but you never know it needs a longer run to be sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.