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What oil filter removal tool?


A TR7 16V

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Variant of the chain wrench that uses a fabric strap - less traumatic to the filter and fingers: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/It....._T7MgCFQfgGwod0M4Iyw
But the strap frays and breaks eventually.

This one uses a metal strap, but access may be awkward: http://www.toolstation.com/sho.....DT7MgCFacewwodg5gA9Q

OR, have you noticed the castellations on the top of the cartridge?  They are designed for this  wrench:  http://www.moorespeedracing.co.uk/motorcycle-tools/OFW65.html?gclid=CNiJ3crT7MgCFQrhGwodJS0D9g
But again, access may be difficult.

John

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Quoted from JohnD
have you noticed the castellations on the top of the cartridge?  They are designed for this  wrench:  http://www.moorespeedracing.co.uk/motorcycle-tools/OFW65.html?gclid=CNiJ3crT7MgCFQrhGwodJS0D9g
But again, access may be difficult.John

I did, and that type of tool. And I see I want one for 14 flats. But I'm not sure what diameter - 67mm?

Graham

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Quoted from vitessesteve
Two primitive but effective methods.

If... you do not mind making a mess you can stab the filter with a sharp object such as an old screwdriver and use that to turn the old filter off.

Fit a large jubilee clip around the filter and then hit on the buckle part of the clip to turn the filter.

I don't much care about the mess, but errindores gets grumpy. I like the jubbly clip idea, but It'd get used for somert else and never be there when needed.

I do like the look of those 1/2 inch drive ones, especially at the price they are from China. Shouldn't matter overly if they're a little bit crap.

Graham

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Only ever really needed to use my hands. Anything more than that and it's been put on too tight - normally happens when doing a service on a new to me car or a friends. In those cases I've used a strap wrench. Or in one extreme case a screwdriver and hammer. That filter needed changing as it had actually rusted through. I'm assuming that happened because no other bugger could remove it so left it on there for years.

I've also found that if a filter is defeating you, walking away and having a cupper can magically loosen it.

Keep in mind that the hexes on filter brands can be different.

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many have tightening clues on the can, spin up to  nip and add 1/4 turn is all thats needed

many seem to think its the sum plug from the queen mary.....my old chain wrench was modified with a motr bike chain many years ago
and that gives a good wide grip, takes  1/2" extention or ratchet so you can attack from a lot of odd angles

Pete

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For removing I check first whether a filter will come undone by hand holding it with a cloth them will use a removing tool because it inevitably will not!

For replacement I always screw it on by hand after oiling the sealing ring then give it a final tweak by hand with cloth around the canister.

MUT

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I didn't bother with the cloth tightening it up, just did it by hand. But I did do the best I could filling it with clean oil and then turned her over on the starter with the ignition disabled till the light went out. It's easier to fill the Sprint's filter housing, as it sits at a much smaller angle. But it did look like I got it screwed on before much of it spilled out.

I also used some low detergent "classic" mineral oil (Kroon 20/50). I've used ASDA's semi-synthetic in the sprints for years, and it don't seem to be a problem. But the Herald sounded tappety (done 'em, there gapped right), and leaked a bit much. Sounds much better cold and about the same hot. Less leakage when cold is to be seen.

Don't imagine we'll do more than a couple of thousand a year, so I'm thinking every MOT should do for oil changes.

Graham

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Quoted from JohnD
Am I right to say that the filter canister should be installed only hand tight?
When they are ultra-tight to get off, is it like the tyre merchant with the whizzie gun - too tight is right?
John


I think they bond on with heat over time, especially the metal threads that I usually oil as well as the rubber seal; but most of us give it the last little 'quarter-turn' when fitting that really isn't required and causes all the bother on removal.
It's just human nature to make sure things aren't going to fall off, and so over-tighten them...

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I was doing an oil change on a 2007 VW Beetle (MK4 Golf based) and the oil filter wouldn't budge. I broke a strap wrench, I tried the "screwdriver method" and still it refused to budge. I bought a chain wrench and it came off a treat. I do all my own oil changes and I've never had any problems with removing the filters I've fitted. I videoed the last oil and filter change I did on the Astra in August and I've stuck it up on YouTube.

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Well the tool's turned up and fits very well. It's not clear from the description, but it takes 1/2 and 3/8ths inch drive or a spanner - open or ring - the nut is actually a 1/2 to 3/8ths adaptor with 6 flats.

Obviously I haven't actually turned the filter, but I offered it up, and there's room to operate it with a full sized 1/2 inch ratchet, and loads of room with a 3/8ths stumpy.

Graham

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I suppose it depends on how much leverage is needed and how many turns before the filter will turn by hand.

The one I took off only needed two or three applications of the tool, which was probably well less than one turn. But to break the seal, it needed a bit more leverage than the Draper chain wrench gave comfortably. And I've never liked the way the chain is picked up by the handle, once wrapped round the filter - just too fiddly. Some of the other chain wrenches look much better.

Are the ones that clamp securely to the filter a pain if you need it to turn the filter many times?

Graham.

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