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Flushing Petrol Tank


DougStag

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Hi All,

So i need to drain the fuel from the Stag as she's been stood for far far too long for it to be of any use. I don't have a pressure washer so i was wondering if there are any chemicals that i can use.

I understand that obviously any chemicals used would have to be thoroughly washed out of the tank.

Many Thanks

Doug (Formerly Skooby6)

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Unless you have solids, rust, internal paint etc, in the tank, then all you will have is old petrol with a lot of volatiles evaporated, and if it was old alcohol containing fuel, water.    Drain it, use it on the lawn mower.   Replace with fresh fuel, and off you go.

How  much old fuel will be left if you drain it?   Less than half a litre, surely?
A Stag holds ?17 gallons?  64litres?   So a tankful will dilute anything that shouldn't be there nearly 400 times!
It'll be in a homepathic dose after a few more tankfuls!

Even better, put a few litres in and run the car about, to ensure you mix it well in and use up that splash of fuel.   Repeat.
This multiplies the dilution effect by the number of times you do it.
EG  Add 5 litres, the old fuel is diluted ten times.
Repeat, 100 times.
Repeat, 1000 times
Repeat 10,000 times  etc etc etc.

John

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I agree with John, just;

Make sure you have an inline fuel filter, keep checking it for rust and be ready to change it for a new one (maybe a couple of times).


I'd be more concerned a the half of the tank that was empty (condensation & rust) rather than the half of the tank with stale petrol.

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Hi John,
            so what your saying is that by creating a 'homepathic' mixture you will be healing whatever is wrong with the tank - I didn't know it worked on rust!! :)


Doug,  be careful when/if looking in the tank, most torches are not vapour proof (perhaps thats why they call them flash lights)

Roger

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908 wrote:



Great tip but you end up with a lawn mower with a ruined engine  :-/



Don't see why it would ruin the lawnmower engine.  Briggs and Stratton engines are damn-near bullet proof.
If it starts at all with the stale petrol, it will run smokey and under-powered with a propensity to stall instead of idle, that's about all.
If you're worried about rust particles etc going through the engine - they'll get stuck in the carburetter just like they would on the car -and the jet clearances in a lawnmower carb are much smaller than in an SU HS4, so they will naturally filter out more of the crud.

(I spent a large part of my formative years stripping and rebuilding lawnmowers in the workshops of our local lawnmower retailer)

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bodders1 wrote:


Don't see why it would ruin the lawnmower engine.  Briggs and Stratton engines are damn-near bullet proof.
If it starts at all with the stale petrol, it will run smokey and under-powered with a propensity to stall instead of idle, that's about all.
If you're worried about rust particles etc going through the engine - they'll get stuck in the carburetter just like they would on the car -and the jet clearances in a lawnmower carb are much smaller than in an SU HS4, so they will naturally filter out more of the crud.

(I spent a large part of my formative years stripping and rebuilding lawnmowers in the workshops of our local lawnmower retailer)


Yes I have a couple of these engines and I would not want to put petrol full off crap in them but that's your thought,s on it and you have the right to do so if you want. Me I would not do it to my car or lawnmower. I have never worked in a lawn mower shop but if I took my new lawn mower back and they found I had used petrol with water and other crap in it I think my warranty would be up the spout.  :)
Cheers
Hugh

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Hi Hugh,
                  if you are concerned with lumps in your fuel then simply filter it. Garden funnel and some layers of scotchbrite will filter most things.
If this is still too coarse then get some filter paper.The original idea of using the lawn mower is attractive

Roger

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Just keep the old fuel in a can and drop a bit into fresh fuel now and then and get rid of it gradually. My old VW Golf ran quite happily on water contaminated with a bit of diesel on one occasion and with sea water on another.

Not sure about using it in my mower though! That's got a 6 1/2 horsepower Briggs and Stratton, K&N filter and a sports exhaust. It's a performance machine!  :)

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Provided the petrol tank has been kept in a sealed state (i.e. with the filler cap on and no holes in the tank) the saturated (petrol) vapour present in the space above the liquid should keep out any water vapour and the tank should not corrode or even get a light tarnishing of rust.  Even draining the tank, provided all holes are sealed immediately, should have the same effect.

The greatest problem as has already been said is because the octane rating of the petrol reduces as the 'lighter ends' of the petrol evaporate into the vapour above the liquid fuel over a very long period of time turning it into pretty cr*p fuel.

I acquired a PI that had had stood for 2 years.  It had about a gallon of fuel in the tank so I put in another 2 gallons and it fired up fine once I had done taken out the plugs and spun it over a bit to get the oil pressure up and move the fresher petrol mix through the system.

Ted

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Oh please no I have a self propelled QUALCAST 55S 16" Suffolk Punch cylinder mower with steel back drum and quick change cassette scarifier with 3.75 hp Briggs and Stratton engine. I would never put anything but the best in it no old petrol with crap in it ;D I have had 2 others and I always keep engine when the rest of the mower is dead.

Now because of my injuries I am unable to do any gardening so I bought my wife a hover mower and she mows the lawns. ;D

Just throw the old crap petrol away down your local dump why take the risk petrol an,it that costly you would risk doing your beloved lawn mower engine in. :)

Hugh

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This has actually turned out to be very informative. My dad has a collection of Briggs and Stratton mowers, he takes things down the tip and comes back with another mower...i shouldn't comment really i am from the same DNA so it's inevitable that i too will be doing that some day.

The fuel tank has been sealed for the entire time and actually doesn't seem to be any crud in it at all which was surprising so i'm going to syphon out the fuel and top up with new fuel, i might put an octane booster in it as well oh and i'll be replacing the fuel filter as well.

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908 wrote:
This is good stuff and works well
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Tank-Sealer-High-Performance-Rust-Prevention-236ml-/380359661708?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item588f33d88c#ht_754wt_901


Paint = £10
Postage = £9.
I feel a few Christmas prezzies coming on to get an order to fee postage stages...

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I used an Atco for years.  I bought it at the closing down sale of an agricultural merchants, for a fiver.   It had a little cigar shaped fuel tank, and a clutch whose friction material was corks.   Not 'cork' (though it was) but corkS, that you pull out of the top of wine bottles.  I know, 'coz I rebuilt it, with slices of wine bottle corks, and it worked fine!

Eventually, the cylinder, the part that cuts the grass, was so worn down that it could not be sharpened any more, and I gave it to the British Lawnmower Museum, in Southport, where it is on display to this day!

My wife was relieved to see it go.  It was so unreliable that the neighbours would complain about my swearing at it.

John

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