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GT6 Electrical "Bits"


john2502

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Hi all,

So couple of little electrical bits to sort on the car over the little winter break.

Firstly, I think i need to renew the wire for the overdrive on the gear stick (GT6 MK3) as whenever i am in 4th without O/D it sort of clicks and sounds like it's trying to enable so i get a quite quick click click click click as i go along. I assume this is just that the wire inside has chafed through and is trying to enable when the gear stick is in that position. How do i start taking this apart? Or does it sound like something else?

Secondly, when running the car up last time i was tried to scare the crap out of my mum tidying the garage but the horn has stopped working, which are the steps to go for first?

I know they're fairly simple and i have a bit of an inkling where to start just wanted to check.

Thanks

John

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Wiring is easy enough for the overdrive - take the gearbox cover off - look for any obvious signs of damage first. They are often the main culprit. If there is nothing obvious (you may have to wipe wires down with a clean rag to get rid of oil and dirt), then pop the top off the gearknob, you should see a little lip on the front for where to pry it up. Avoid a screwdriver as you can damage the plastic. A strong thumb nail will usually do.

Gently feed the wire back up the gearstick from by the gearbox body. Again, check the switch body for burning or signs of damage. If there is nothing, carefully pull the spade connectors from the switch, with age the connections can become brittle, so it may be worth changing them anyway. You should now be able to withdraw the OD wiring from the stick. Again, inspect for signs of damage and replace as needed.

In almost all cases I have seen, the wiring has worn though on a bolt head and chaffed through the insulation. On my 2000 Mk1 however it was because the wiring has poorly positioned and it chaffed through on the gearbox cover.

Horn will be similar, but a common fault is the push on the steering wheel.
An easy test it to just put a known good feed onto the horn spades directly to see if it sounds. If it doesn't, give it a knock with a dead-blow or something, sometimes they just seize up.

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If the wiring in the gear lever is original, they it will probably became brittle and the insulation just brakes of & wires eventually to.. (don't ask me how i know this.. )
But if you need an NOS wiring for the gear lever, give a shout, got a few of those  

Or you can make your own wiring and just soldering the old connectors onto the new wires (how i did it on mine).


As for the horn, check i you got 12v at the horn first , then you can maybe check the horn brush etc 🙂

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The wire through the gear lever shaft to the O/D switch on the gear lever knob, should have an outer insulating sleeve. These often wear through or are not replaced by the PO- this usually manifests itself with a comedy intermittent electric shock through the hand to the gear lever shaft!
The OD selector swicth itself in the gear lever can also be problematic. I seem to recall it was easier to buy a new replacement switch with its specific matching connectors to the switch (quite a strange type: are they still available?) on the short electrical wire tails.

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Denis Welch offer this gearknob arrangement, being a copy of that fitted to BMC Works Healeys and BLMC Works 2.5Pi world cup rally cars (I believe).
Extract from their website:

'WORKS TYPE GEAR LEVER KNOB
This Gear Lever Knob is made in aluminium and has a built-in switch to control the overdrive. This enables you to change gear and operate the overdrive all with one hand. Polished finish.

Gearbox
GEARKNOB + OVERDRIVE SWITCH   3D View
CELS123     
£34.97 + VAT'

I have used one of these on my GT6 for years and have found it reliable and easy to use, even in the heat of the moment. The wires pass down the outside of the lever, therefore enabling one to get rid of the hollow gearlever, seen a few of those break when being used 'enthusiastically'.  I have always thought the slider switch in the knob head (so to speak!) is poor. One snag is that the tread is different than that on a Triumph gear lever, I reduced the diameter of my gear lever at the top to suit.

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Thanks for the info guys. Will let you know how I get on!

Yes that's it Bruce! I had totally forgotten to mention my couple of electric shocks, haha, i laughed so hard the second time. Both were when i had my other arm out the window slightly (hot days at the end of the summer, I'm not that much of a wide boy!....) and i believe when i switched the O/D off. so i guess instead of the current going through the switch when i turned it off it decided i was a fun alternative to go through.

Interesting sounding mod Tim, thanks for pointing out. Here's the link for anyone interested. Reckon i'll keep standard for now and might see if i can work something in that will avoid this happening at least for as long as possible with the existing setuo when i get it apart.

http://www.bighealey.co.uk/aus.....drive-switch-cels123

Cheers!

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Re the horn, check it actually works when powered direct from the battery (either a long test lead or take the horn off and short lead!) they do get unreliable, and often only one of a pair seems to work.
The original horns are good, and can be played with I think to get working. However, on my spit I have fitted one of these http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/steb.....gMRh26e6qhoCJRnw_wcB
which is a seriously loud horn.... (it was a gift too)

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