markcro Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Yes yet another oil thread I bet! I did a search and found loads of threads but just looking for a definitive answer. At the moment I have Castrol GTX "High Mileage" 15w-40 in my GT6. There is a bit of rumble/ bottom end knock on cold start up. She is due a change now so what oil should I be using? Stick with the 15w-40 or change for a thicker grade? Is Halfords "Classic" 20w-50 oil any good?Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy66 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 20/50 :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook1e Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 Definitely 20/50. I ran my GT6 on 15/40 for a while as I got a 20L drum of Chevron 14/40 on the cheap. However, the car ran hotter and used oil and was a bit smokey when it got hot, oil pressure was still good though.I now use either Halfords or Comma Classic 20/50. Oil consumption has improved considerably and the car runs a bit cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 Cheers! 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire1500 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Another vote for the Halfords 20/50. It's pretty cheap and is the perfect thickness :)Kind regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiggrr1 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 I have used the Halfords stuff for the last 4 years of GT6 ownership with no problems.You definatley need to use a minimum spec of 20w/50 it is what our cars were designed to run on.However on the recent 10CR i used Penrite 20w/60 and instead of my tired engine running at 35-40 psi oil pressure when hot it was running at 45-50 psi.I will certainly be using it again.Details herehttp://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Product-124/Castrol/Penrite/Penrite-HPR30I got mine a little cheaper (£25) from Max at Totaly Triumph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Chic Doig recommends the Penrite HPR30 (20/60) for any cars to be use on the motorway or used sportingly. It really is good stuff and at £28 it's price is good. However the Mutts Nuts is Valvoline VR1 20w50, it holds good oil pressure from cold and is thinner on cold startup than the 20/60 penrite so the car gets up to temp quicker and then holds the same as 20/60. The VR1 is £30 delivered? All your choice really, if you don't rag it then go for halfords if you do then you want top quality for longer engine life.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 2402 wrote: The VR1 is £30 delivered?If Eurocar Parts are doing a 25% or even 30% special you can get it delivered for free on orders over £50. Need to order 2 gallons, but its worth it at that price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 VR1 is the oil for me-top stuff that withstands heavy useage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Yep VR1 for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Millers CSS 20/60 . Retains a good oil pressure all the time.....Expensive but well worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 20 50 20 60 its all a 20 weight oil at cold. only gits to the 60 grade when it gets hot.and as the temp rises, it can go fron a 20 up to 50/60, in incrementscontrary to pop beleif, there is not two grades of oil in one can,so if your engine never gets hot, then you will be running about on a 20/30 oil.when the oil is kernakkerd, all you will be running on, hot or cold is a 20 weight oil. :-/[ unless you running a straight grade ]commas is the same and cheaper. as its made by comma.best is commas sonic 20/50,as its got alott moer anti wear additives in it as all the others,including the classic, and VR 1 Yet its rated as a SL/M oil. most oils in this category have very little ZDDP/phosphorous in them,if they had,they can not be used on Cat equipped things.generally motorsport oils dont fall into this category,so can get away with it.I ran some 10/60 RS, [ good price ] the oil consumtion was horrendous, so was the oil pressure. and as the oil temp never got past 85/90 degs, on normal driving. then it was never really into the 60 area, maybe 40 area. [ as said by the castrol boffins dept, when asked]not only that, but the oil light took alott longer to go off, when starting frae cold,after a while or so, as the thin 10 weight oil,had run oot the filter / bearings ect,alott moer than the 20 grade oils had.intresting sites for any one intrestedhttp://www.opieoils.co.uk/technicalinfo.aspxhttp://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.htmlits not a simple thing is the old black stuff. M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Comma Sonic is very highly rated and cheap in price but no one up here(scotland) will stock it as they have the comma classic 20w50(same as halfords) for sale and it's not bought very often at all. The company's have to order a couple of crates of the stuff which would just sit not being used so refuse to stock it. So VR1 gets my vote.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I swear by the Valvoline VR1 racing 20-50 and a shot of STP oil treatment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 STP oil treatment????? OOOOH whats this then??? ZZDP treatment?Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 2402 wrote: STP oil treatment????? OOOOH whats this then??? ZZDP treatment?Chris.No, it's a viscosity enhancer. Like clear treacle. Doesn't like to leave its comfy tin! Works too. Helps with oil pressure and oil consumption but if your engine is healthy anyway you don't need it. Mine isn't, so it does.....Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Yes I know the type I've used the WYNN's version before in an old motorcycle.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
npanne Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 2402 wrote:Comma Sonic is very highly rated and cheap in price but no one up here(scotland) will stock it as they have the comma classic 20w50(same as halfords) for sale and it's not bought very often at all. The company's have to order a couple of crates of the stuff which would just sit not being used so refuse to stock it. So VR1 gets my vote.Chris.Comma Sonic £25 delivered (on Amazon) - if that helps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 npanne wrote:Comma Sonic £25 delivered (on Amazon) - if that helps?Cheaper still on Ebay....£19 delivered:http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150649428092&clk_rvr_id=273133493474&item=150649428092&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev W Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Hi, I don't want to hijack this thread but I feel you've all covered off the different oils really well and I made my choice based on this thread. Anyhoo, I'd like to ask what the general concensus is on engine flushing products? Any good, waste of time or downright dangerous for the engine?! :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 VR1 is better.......In my opinion.........Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 ???Sorry Chris, lost me there? Or do you mean just use VR1 and don't flush?Anyway, having had a few engines apart over the years, all the ones that I haven't taken apart previously or known to be "recently" rebuilt, have a good 1/2" of tar-like crud in the sump. Seems to just sit there not causing trouble. If you use a flushing oil that does soften/break this stuff up it is bound to cause serious, if not terminal, problems. So i would say don't bother.Better to drop the sump and physically scrape it out. Shouldn't be a huge job, but a little messy. and drain the oil before taking the sump off ;)That way you KNOW the stuff is out and the sump clean. Of course, if the sump is off it is tempting to look at the bearings...........(Hmm, GT6 a bit trickier to drop the sump I guess, was thinking 4 cylinder cars) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev W Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 that was my concern, that crud would be removed and then get stuck in the oilways. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS211083 Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 cliftyhanger, sorry mate the question wasn't there when I started writing. Ha Ha. Personally I would also remove the sump too. The sump doesn't stay sealed for long anyway so you can reseal it aswell as remove the crap while its off.Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcro Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 2396 wrote:Hi, I don't want to hijack this thread but I feel you've all covered off the different oils really well and I made my choice based on this thread. Anyhoo, I'd like to ask what the general concensus is on engine flushing products? Any good, waste of time or downright dangerous for the engine?! :-/I have been recommended to stay away from flushing products on older engines unless you were doing it from an early time. As carbon build up/ gunk may actually be sealing bits and pieces, so by removing all of that you may end up worse off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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