Alex Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Title pretty much sums it up.....I need to run in my freshly rebuilt engine,do I just use the cheapest 20/50 I can find for 500 miles drop n change for valvo line or should I use something else for the running in?Any advice for best running in procedure?ThanksAlex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32valves Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Wilkinsons el-cheapo 20W50 for the first 500 miles, don't labour or thrash it. Change the oil for something a bit more decent for the next 500 to 1000 miles and press on a little more this time. Change once more with the good stuff then take it out and wring its neck ! Job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 What he said :)Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Thanks Carl and Nick!It's nearly there now,just needs carbs fitting,dizzy,starter,radiator and oil.Then I find out what and if I've cocked up...... :-/Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Nothing like a little cocktail to get a relationship going, so how about one for your new engine?Four parts B&Q's CarLube Daytona (Mmmmmmmm! Superbe! (Kises finger tips!)(Only £12/litre!) to one part Lucas Oils Engine Break-In Oil Additive, with TB Zinc Plus! Pour, shake, pour. Add ice cubes (outside the can), garnish with an oily rag. Even with Lucas' finest at £20, (DON'T buy from Amazon US - more than twice as expensive as UK eBay!) this cocktail costs no more than than a litre of, say, Castrol Magnatec, the most highly promoted engine oil. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Carl and Nick, is this the stuff or is this too cheap :-/http://www.wilko.com/car-maintenance/wilko-multigrade-20w50-motor-oil-45ltr/invt/5691540?VBMST=20w%2050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Cos I'm paronoid. I usually give a rebuilt engine an oil change after running it for about an hour on cheap oil.and then another change after 1000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Do you change the filter after the hour too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Mmm food for thought. I wonder if an oil and filter change after an hr is overkill though ;DHaving said that an hr in your stag Richard was about a year :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32valves Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 That's the exact stuff I used for the first 500 miles on my current Sprint engine, although 6 years ago it was half the price ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Thanks Carl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Richard_B wrote:Cos I'm paronoid. I usually give a rebuilt engine an oil change after running it for about an hour on cheap oil.and then another change after 1000 miles.Wot he said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Strong logic to this as most of the bedding-in (and thus metal particle shedding) will occur in the first few minutes of running, mostly from the rings/bores and maybe a little from the cam/followers plus timing chain & tensioner. If anything larger than the finest of powders is being shed after that...... something bad is happening.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 In't old days, they always said run it in!Remember seeing signs in the rear windows of some cars "running in" Now when you buy a car they don't tell you! You can gun it as soon as you buy it! So what's changed?? They are still the same!A work colleague of mine many years ago bought a new car, (Toyota corolla twin cam) so it shows how long ago it was!He thrashed the pants of it as soon as he drove out of the garage! Red lined it most of it's life, the car never missed a beat, never leaked oil, was always powerfull, and gave good fuel consumption (when he did drive it normal! ;D) the engine is now in a lotus 7 style kit car, and he never rebuilt it!What about the race guys! New engine and it's thrashed all season! Probably more than one season! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIMPUS Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_s Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 a few years ago back in my days of being in a motorbike owners club there were discussions on this fairly often and there seemed to be 2 schools of thought, the normal one of take it easy and no racing etc and then the other way of ride/drive it a bit harder then normal initially, the theory being that in order for all the metal to bed in you should push it hard while the edges are sharp and able to cut into each other.......have only ever had to run one engine in and i did take my time, but since then have thrashed the arse off it and its always been fine.you pays your money and makes your choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve AKA vitessesteve Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 A while back somebody told me about running in large diesels for earth moving equipment - he said they used to add some talc to the oil to get things bed in properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 My old Audi A6, aka the Soot Monster, now on almost 256k miles was originally a company lease car driven by my boss. He's always happy to tell me he caned it from day one..... Didn't seem to hurt it - uses very little oil even now!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Modern engines are made to enormously smaller tolerances than 'ours' were.Running in was to deal with the imperfections in bearings etc that don't exist now.Can't say how bores and rings are different - Nick?Running in for racing - I try to road drive a new engine as far as possible without stopping, in as few sessions as possible, until I've done 500 miles or so.Most new cars, then and now and just used for commuting.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Diesels need a good flogging to bed in properly - I had a new Landcruiser for a gold minesite to drive up from Perth and my then Project Manager told me to drive it as if I hated it for the 900kms to site. My defence to any cops would have been "I am acting under instructions" but luckily I wasn't caught. That landcruiser was always the sweetest, fastest and most economical on the site - all the others were delivered by transporter and were "run in" trundling around within a 40km/h speed limit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughbert Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 All modern engines get a run test on the test bed before they are finished off here is Bentleys engine build it shows the test in progress a bout 4 seconds in as you can see all are hand built. :) Then once in the car it goes on a rolling road test room and run right through all gears to top speed and full revs.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOngOoNN4Xohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aohcTDV5l2Ihttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slQ9E1s1FuQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Thanks Hugh, excellent vids. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Lovely videos. I think I preferred the V8 - that W12 is a monster of a motor, and looks as though it belongs in a locomotive. Mind you, it must sound nice without the mufflers... I loved the fact that the V8 is built by one bloke, whereas the W12 is assembled on a typical production line. You can see him checking his work as he goes along. Tighten a bolt, turn the crank to check for tightness. Tighten another bolt, check again. Out of all the jobs in the factory, building engines and then seeing them on the dyno must give the most job satisfaction. When the car leaves the factory, there are two names on it. W.O. Bentley's, and his.Still wanna hear one without the mufflers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Hand built Bentley engine?You mean like the engine my Triumph, then?And like the engines in most other Triumphs these days.Are there ANY Triumphs that are still running on their original production-line-built engines?Someof good tips for engine builders there:Numbered template to guide the order of tightening, used on the flywheel bolts but applicable anywhere.And long cushioned pins in the big end bolt holts, to get them installed with no risk of damaging the journals.The adjustable height engine stand would be heaven, but I'll just have to do without itAnd balancing the whole engine, less cylinder head! Nice one! But without a pressurised oil supply, another I'll have to do without.But balancing the pistons and conrods should go quite along way in the right direction.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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