mazfg Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Just been out for what will probabaly be the last spin of the year. Was fine on the drive out but on my way home, I found that I couldn't get overdrive in 4th. Goes in (slowly) with 3rd, if I then select 4th it comes out of overdrive? If i'm in 4th and then select overdrive, I get nothing? Relay is working ok/ clicking okCould it be the solenois or something more sinister?I'm about to take the whole thing out anyway and get it refurbed (again).Any help appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 Just to add to that..taken it out again and found that it will engage in 4th but as soon as i go over 40mph it goes in and out (judders) and then stays out. Obviously the higher speed is causing it to disengage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Is your oil level alright? Top it up and try again.Failing that it may be wiring chafing or loose; at higher speeds wind resistance or vibration may stress the wiring and cause it to lose connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 I'll check the oil, but never had a problem with the level. Been driving it all summer and this is the first time it's done this. I'm removing at the moment anyway, so i'll see how much oil comes out??? Otherwise will re-check the wiring continuity. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Checked the oil and it's at the right level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bonnett Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Well worth checking that the cable that passes through the centre of the gear lever hasn't worn through the insulation and intermittently earthing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 If it's an original Vitesse installation there is no wire through the gear lever - the switch is on the column. You can still get problems with the wire but they're not usually gear-sensitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 I have the lever on the steerign column. This all seems to work ok.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 With hydraulic problems, usually the problem goes the other way. If you push on to higher speeds in third does it drop out then too?If it does, possibly the strainer is blocked. The pump is driven by the mainshaft and varies with road speed. At lower speeds it may be able to just draw enough oil through. At higher speeds it will be trying to draw more but perhaps failing to overcome the increasing losses and drawing air from the top/cavitating.Would be a reasonably easy fix though the question of what was causing the blockage and why would arise...... Black "fur" from the clutch linings is the usual culprit.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Thanks for that Nick. I did clean the strainer out in the OD back in February. it was quite gunked with that silvery grey liquid..I'll have another look tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Just checked the strainer. .not clogged up.....oil again was quite silvery grey tthough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 silvery oil sounds like something is breaking up in the OD. The OD works on a Cam on the Mainshaft driving a pump, when the solenoid engages it lifts a ball bearing and lets the fluid into two pistons pushing them forward against springs and pulling the cone clutch forward.A low pressure may cause this, and this can be shimmed, could be your pump on its way our which to replace could be done from under neath. The manual talk of a special tool..... however i botched something with a 1/2" pipe union to remove mine. I would check the solenoid and electrics first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Do the simple first this sounds a classic case of inhibitor switch adjustmenttheres no conection between gearbox selection amd overdrive operation other than wires down the gear stick (not in this case) and the 3rd 4th inhibitor switchBet if you side load the gear stick you will make this worse or betterso remove a shim washer from under the switch and retest if the switch is bracket mounted it may need some gentle adjustentPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 I've buzzed through the cable and will try the switch again whilst jiggling the gearstick.....but it seems to look all good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 this switch can give lots of interrupted if not making good plunger pressure , its only a bell push inside and they can be quite corrodedif its a simple crimped case you can disassemble and clean but some later ones are sealed for life what ever that gives.the fact it plays up differently in 3rd to what happens in 4th is got to be selection related not overdrive relatedthe OD doesnt know what gear youre inPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 The switch has been thoroughly tested/ checked and all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 was that on the gearbox being operated by its cam or switch on bench ?Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Quoted from Pete Lewis was that on the gearbox being operated by its cam or switch on bench ?Pete Gearbox operating the switch. Once continuity was flowing I moved the gearbox aroundo, rolled it, bumped it and all stayed good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 Don't know... have trouble with my TC not engaging . Recent gearbox and o/d overhaul. Will engage when cold but that's about it.After 2 or 3 km''s gives up. Sure it's not electrics, checked everything out. Replaced the relief valve assy with no improvement. This morning I thought I'd found the problem. Removed the pressure filter, plug was loose and filter was full of crap. Cleaned it out best I could. Better but still not right. Ordered a new filter from Rimmers. We'll see what happens. Costing more on oil than anything else. (huh)Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 mazfg is Dtype on the 2000 its J type, i found the inner piston in the solenoid was sticking , needs a thin 1"af spanner to undo the sol, dont grip its case you can wreck it, and remove the small 10mm circlip inside and pop the piston out for a good clean and all intermittent mind of its own solved dont need to drain the oil either .mazfg, have you tested the holding coil current should pull in at 10 amps and the switch to 0.5 amps , theres a switch mechanism in the end of the solenoid can be very corroded over the years ( some later ones are solid state you cant service the contact) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted October 12, 2017 Share Posted October 12, 2017 I now convinced my problem is not electrical, I've stripped the solenoid (J type) cleaned it up and replaced the O rings. I'm sure that it's working as intended and my problem is hydraulic. I'll see if the new filter improves things. At the moment it changes normally for the first 5 minutes or so and then stops working.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 nang,Is it the same in both 3rd and 4th? I had a problem on a Stag where it would work when cold but not when hot, with different sensitivity depending on gear. It turned out a previous owner had fitted too many washers under the inhibitor switch. I removed one and the problem disappeared.Hydraulic problems that cause it not to work when hot are usually down to leaks and/or low oil pressure. They generally go through a phase of being very sluggish with a very soft engagement before finally giving up. The problem I had on the Stag wasn't like that - it worked great then suddenly it did nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Quoted from Pete Lewis mazfg is Dtype on the 2000 its J type, i found the inner piston in the solenoid was sticking , needs a thin 1"af spanner to undo the sol, dont grip its case you can wreck it, and remove the small 10mm circlip inside and pop the piston out for a good clean and all intermittent mind of its own solved dont need to drain the oil either .mazfg, have you tested the holding coil current should pull in at 10 amps and the switch to 0.5 amps , theres a switch mechanism in the end of the solenoid can be very corroded over the years ( some later ones are solid state you cant service the contact) It pulls in fine and holding current is 0.95 amps. It's rock solid and won't move at that and is in the correct position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Not much more I can dream up , it still has all the snags of inhibitor messing up ,how about you make up a bypass lead and toggle switch to prove its completely eliminated Just dont use it in 1 2 or reverese with the od engaged Nang did you remove the J solenoid inner plunger, it should rattle if you the shake the sol firmly.they only seem to supply O rings for the outer body not the piston valve one hidden insidejust a thoughtpete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Pete, I managed to get suitable O rings for the inner bits and yes the thing rattles !I'm waiting for a new filter to arrive before I go into the pump plug. Present filter was full of that looks like clutch lining bits and yes, the o/d was rebuilt recently.Although I've cleaned the filter the best I can, I'm still not sure it's enough as the gauze is quite fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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