mikew Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 The "can" is a cv joint - not really repairable - could repack and regrease it, but it will still have play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Should I feel any rotary play at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Recon prop ordered from Canley's. They have to be made to order. I believe they change the can end to a sliding U/J fitment.It's should take 7 working days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegt6 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 should be pretty much zero - machine tolerance only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 8735 wrote:should be pretty much zero - machine tolerance onlyI would say there was about 1/16 inch play so it hopefully it will cure the noise. I take it a CV joint has a bearing which is probably breaking down, as the noise sounded like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegt6 Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Typically bearings, yes. 1.6mm is quite a bit....New prop sounds like your 'normal' sort - uj each end and sliding splined joint.Hope it does the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 New prop arrived today from Canley's. not bad as it was a 7 working day turnaround and I only ordered it on Monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 New prop now on :)Took it for a ride, The rumbling noise has gone :) but still getting gearbox noise :(Looks like I had two noises.The noise now coming further forward , It's only there on hard acceleration, Sounds like engine pinking but from the gearbox. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Got hold of a good gearbox and overdrive together with the bell housing and all the auxiliaries from a car restorers. They had to cannibalize an A1 condition Spitfire for the tub and bonnet for a customer who’s own spitfire he had owned from new could be restored.It now drives without the ticking/rattle noise on hard accelerating. When time allows I will take the old one apart and see if I can find out what was causing it. Possible bearing noise. Never done a gearbox before so should be interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Quoted from Guppy916 If you change uj's fit Freelander units they are a lot stronger, Rimmer's sell them BUT my local Land Rover garage were half price, all four of mine are Freelander units Can someone confirm that late Freelander UJs are metric and therefore not a great fit in the yokes? I've heard this only recently but if it's true it's worth highlighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Tssc shop sell them as direct replacements, many have used the LR units as better and cheaper the only metric confusion may be the greaser tapping threadspete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Choice of different brands/quality....https://www.lrdirect.com/TVF100000-Universal-Joint/?sfi=TVF100000&keep_https=yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Christ thats a big range of prices! I wonder whats different in the manufacturing to warrant it........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Well, the original Land Rover one will have had thousands of hours testing to make sure it is up to scratch and the £2.50 Britpart one will be made to look a bit like the original.That's the basic gist.There will also be extensive legal paperwork and engineering reports into the Land Rover one.Personally, wherever possible, I use original manufacturer on my cars, obviously not possible on a Triumph mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 In this case, The OEM one "should" be identical to the LR one, as that is what is implied by OEM.Me, I would buy the GKN or HArdy Spicer one if the car was being heavily used, or the Britpart one if it was going up for sale soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyb Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 interesting to see that the cheaper GKN has a 2 year warranty, the rest only one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Exactly why I use lrdirect - you make your choice. From personal experience I wouldn't buy Britpart. I tend to find all-makes and bearmach quality good and very good VFM. For heavy duty parts (like a UJ) I'd be prepared to spend on GKN or Hardy Spicer.For wheel studs (for the spitfire) I stuck to allmakes as they had the correct chamfer on the head to match the triumph hubs. (CLP9037L) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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