mazfg Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 I'm about to take my Diff out. The propshaft is out and I removed the nuts n bolts attaching the driveshafts to the Diff. Is there an easy way to get the diff out without having to remove the driveshafts/ hub complete? They're still up against the diff flanges, but have moved down since I lowered the car again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 on my mk1 Vit I do what youve done then remove a small cover plate in the boot to undo the leaf spring holding plate bolts. Lastly theres the actual diff holding bolts to take out (two at the front and a long cross bolt at the rear) and gently lower the unit out of place. It weighs a fair bit so I do this last bit on a trolley jack and obviously you need to have the car jacked up high to improve access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Thanks for that. My only concern is that the flanges on the driveshafts are still up against the flanges of the diff..but have slipped a bit..but can't see how to seperate them enough for the diff to drop down. I'll probably be removing the drivehsafts/ hub at some point anyway as I'd like to renew the UJ's. In the mean time though I rathe the car sat on 4 wheels rather than axle stands... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 you should be able to just lever the flanges apart or once you undo the spring they separate automatically. However then the spring is free and the car shouldnt be lowered back onto its rear wheels as there wont be any suspension support..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 The spring is still attached to the vertical link. The flanges are still togetehr but have slipped sideways slightly as I had to push the car forward.The top ,mounting for the diff shows 6 studs. In the manual it says just removed the rear 3 studs? Do all six studs have to be removed though or just the nyloc nuts. I'm guessing it'll be easier if all studs(6) have been removed? rather than pushing studs through the spring plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 You can lift the spring plate off. But you still have to remove the rear studs, and easier if they are all out. And yes, lever the shafts out of the way.I have done a few diff swaps, but to be fair mainly late spitfire rear suspension in the last 10 years. So my memory may be shonky.However, if you intend taking the shafts off, you might as well do it now. Don't forget to check the rear trunnions are all fee and move easily.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 I suppose it might be done with only the 3 rear studs removed as the diff has to be lowered at the front and then slid forward to take it out however you'll definitely have to undo the other nuts to take off the plate so probably easiest to unscrew all of em. Once released the spring is free to move upwards as far as the boot floor so allowing movement of the vertical links - you might have to jiggle the wheels a bit but the flanges should separate easily.As you say while its apart you might as well do everything including the vertical link suspension bushes if they havent already been done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Ah, yes I see that now looking at a picture of the spring plate. Only the back studs removed as the front ones will move out through the front of the spring. Thinking it maybe best to just remove driveshafts complete and then diff and be done with it Vertical link bushes were poly bushed about 4 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 So, once the spring plate and diff is off and the vertical links removed from the spring eye bolt...can I withdraw the spring from the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Yes, once you've removed the spring plate and disconnected both vertical links, there's nothing attaching the spring any more and you should be able to slide it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Quoted from mazfg Ah, yes I see that now looking at a picture of the spring plate. Only the back studs removed as the front ones will move out through the front of the spring. Thinking it maybe best to just remove driveshafts complete and then diff and be done with it Vertical link bushes were poly bushed about 4 years ago I didnt know there were poly bushes available for the trunion pivots - I'll look for them next time mine need doing! Looks like your job is expanding and it might have been easier just to drop the whole back axle out (disconnect brakes, trailing arms, dampers and diff)....What are you doing on the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Quoted from glang I didnt know there were poly bushes available for the trunion pivots - I'll look for them next time mine need doing! Looks like your job is expanding and it might have been easier just to drop the whole back axle out (disconnect brakes, trailing arms, dampers and diff)....What are you doing on the diff? http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?searchtext=514370PDon;'t think you can drop the whole thing out...the chassis is in the way The driveshaft seals need replacing and I'm going to get a drain plug fitted too and also given the once over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 of course youre right! Well it was a while ago I looked under there Not thinking about a 3.63 diff then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Quoted from glang I didnt know there were poly bushes available for the trunion pivots - I'll look for them next time mine need doing! I have to wonder why anyone makes polyurethane trunnion bushes. Are they a rigid compound to match the original nylon bushes? Or are they a softer compound like the other bushes, which would offer less precise location of the axles?I know there are quality problems with some of the available trunnion bushes, but even the good ones cost a fraction of the polyurethane type. One aspect of these cars which needs no redesign whatsoever,Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Agree Bill - quality issues aside. The (superflex) polybushes I've seen are very hard - much like the original nylon ones but have stainless crush tubes and no water shields. They are slightly thicker in the flange section that the OE ones to compensate for the absence of water shields.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 You can get the diff out with only the spring studs on the diff and halfshaft and propshaft bolts out. Push against the bottom of tge wheel and the shaft flange will move away from the diff. Getting it back in isn't easy though, as you're pushing up against the spring as the diff goes it. It can be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Quoted from Nick Jones They are slightly thicker in the flange section that the OE ones to compensate for the absence of water shields. Sounds like they've patterned them on the early bushes, before the water shields were introduced in the mid 1960s.Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 It mentions removing exhaust too...is this definitely necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 I can't see how you can drop the diff without taking the exhaust off. It runs right under the diff.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Quoted from cliftyhanger I can't see how you can drop the diff without taking the exhaust off. It runs right under the diff.... Mine not right under the diff..it's to the side of it but just under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 It should have a hanger off the diff. As you need to drop the nose of the diff down several inches on a tilt, I can't see how you will get the diff out with the exhaust there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 My stainless (thin wall?) exhaust allows quite a bit of movement - if I undo the rear hanger (its only fixing) it can be moved down and quite well out of the way but of course does need supporting. This obviously isnt ideal but I can understand why you dont want to remove the pipe completely and I think I would probably do the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 So, the Diff's out and the drive shaft and the spring. ( I removed the exhaust in the end )Now I think I might as well do the bearings on the half shafts and the leaf spring is looking a bit cruddy too. Any advice on cleaning that up..not sure I want to actually take it all apart..just a wire brush up??? Should I give it a coat of dinitrol too?I've now also removed the UJ's...that was a pig...no tapping them out..had to use the vice to push them out...solidly fixed in there!! The N/S was definitely worn and probably the cause of the slight noise I could hear.The N/S drum also binds..wondering if this is a little on the oval in shape...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Dont know about Dinitrol its really lubrication you want so I think working a thick grease into the leaves as much as possible and coating the whole thing is the best you can do with it.If the drum binds and then releases as you spin it then its definitely oval which is not unusual over time and heat with cast iron. Mine were the same so I took em to a local engineering shop who skimmed the braking surfaces on a lathe for 25quid the pair. The improvement was 100% but they did say it was a difficult job to do perfectly without the specialised equipment.Looks like your jobs are multiplying but thats always the way 😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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