Replacing diff output oil seals without a press

[hyperhale]

My diff is leaking badly from all three seals, no problem with replacing the pinion seal but I have read of issues removing the output shaft bearings without a press.

Is cutting/grinding the bearings from the shafts and replacing the bearings an option anyone has gone for?

Also will the new bearings drift on fairly easily without damaging them, maybe placing the shafts in a freezer for a while and warming the bearings?

[Clive]

When I did mine a friend popped down with his bearing puller. Mind you, it was chunky, but worked a treat (home-made, or rather made-at-work, using substantial bits of metal and bolts etc.)
Not sure if a std bearing puller would work though?
I drifted the new bearings on, that was straightforward enough.

[Velocita Rosso]

Quoted from cliftyhanger

When I did mine a friend popped down with his bearing puller. Mind you, it was chunky, but worked a treat (home-made, or rather made-at-work, using substantial bits of metal and bolts etc.)
Not sure if a std bearing puller would work though?
I drifted the new bearings on, that was straightforward enough.

Yes we have used a split brg puller, removing the circlip first, then drifting back on. .....then the seals just push in

[WIMPUS]

Quoted from hyperhale

Is cutting/grinding the bearings from the shafts and replacing the bearings an option anyone has gone for?

Also will the new bearings drift on fairly easily without damaging them, maybe placing the shafts in a freezer for a while and warming the bearings?

I've grounded my old bearing off the shaft (you need to be very careful), then fitted the new bearing by butting the old part of the bearing onto the new one and hit the old part.

Done the trick for me.

[ed_h]

You can cut the old bearings off, but to install new ones without disassembling the taper joint, you would have to machine the shaft.  See near the bottom of this page: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-38/TR6-38.html

Ed

[Velocita Rosso]

We are talking about Spitfire stub shafts aren`t we?
The pic doesnt seem to be...

[Nick Jones]

That's a saloon/TR one which is different as the flange has to be removed (press needed) as the bearing fits from the other side.

Nick

[GT6 M]

Thee,s can be a real pain some times.
they can be stuk really hard ont shaft,
so much so, it bends the flange when just using a puller, or a splitter.

wots needed is something folk no sell, and thats a 4 legged puller.
A 2 legger, even wid wide flanges will, an does bent the flanges.

a bearing splitter, well i aint never been able to get a one of wid thee,s useless things,
they are OK if the outer race has been took off, but the bearings so tite a fit,
that even a sharp end ont cups wont get in,  to get a pull.
And they are OK if bearing kaput, as ye can pull against the outer race, same too wid a 3 legger.
BUT dont ift bearing to be reused.

2 ways I doo em, if a press is no available
if bearing scrap, then wrap a cloot over bearing outer, and wak ard wid a BFH, this shatters outer race, then a chisel can be use to drift of the inner bit
cloot  is to stop shrapnel flyin every where.

If re using the bearing, then I tek the  jaws oot me vice, and there is then a lip
this lip will fit along 2 sides oft flange, so spread forces, generally this  works as ye then hit top wid a BFH, and drift the shaft doon wards.

Even this some times can bend the flanges, so I hed a 3/4 bit of steel plate,
in 2 bits, that can clamp t.githa and fit over all 4 sides when bunged int vice,
so supporting the flange all around, it never bends or twists then.

Butt, befoer I tek to thee,s ways, I wack shaft end ont anvil bit on vice,
and some times, they will come loose wid a few wacks doon wards by hand alone.

If yer oile seal flats are corroded / pitted, then its possible to fit 2 seals in there to get a good seal. or tap into a diff spot in housing.
wear grooves, and pitting are a factor to look for when ye got,m off.

meb,e of some help

M

[thebrookster]

fower legged puller Marcus?? Crikey, must be a reet bugger to handle!!

We use both 2 and 3 legged pullers onboard ship (yes, we have 4 legged pullers but those are muckle buggers for odd jobs). I would have thought a 3 legged puller, along with (if needed) judicious added heat and cold (you can buy special sprays that freeze metal for this kinda thing) should get em shifted?

Plus a 3-legged puller is easier to handle, the 4 legged beasts need an extra set hands to use em!!

Phil

[hyperhale]

Thanks all for your advice, seals and bearings are on order - diff is out ready to work on.

I'll let you know how it goes...

[nang]

Marcus,
I made a puller from an old u/j flange.
Tony.

[piman]

Hello Tony,

good idea, but personally I think that the nut needs a full circumference weld?

Alec

[GT6 M]

thats a neatish Idea Tony, butt still gotta fart aboot wid bolts.
bit like tek,n the flange of the Salloon / TR models.

And some times its on se tight it still bends the flange,
even wid heat and some wacks t,jar it loose.
some times i just cant doo it, and off to me marras for the 100 ton press.

highest reading so far befoer going bang is 65 ton.
noo push the bearing and hub off as one,  this way, ye no bugger the hub end up
as as happened befoer.

Good job Spitty type are no as hard as a Saloon type.

M

[GT6 M]

[quote=thebrookster]fower legged puller Marcus?? Crikey, must be a reet bugger to handle!!

Plus a 3-legged puller is easier to handle, the 4 legged beasts need an extra set hands to use em!!

The 3 legged just dont doo it Phil, try it an see.

M

[nang]

Quoted from piman

Hello Tony,

good idea, but personally I think that the nut needs a full circumference weld?

Alec

Alec,
You're no doubt right, but being lazy I just did the bits easily welded. Done 3 sets so far and still in one piece. (bunny)
Tony.

[Velocita Rosso]

But you do not have to pull the flange...only the bearing , as the flange does not have to come off to change the bearing/seal

[GT6 M]

Errr just hoo are ye gonna change the oil seal if the flange is still on the shaft,(think)(think)

this is why I cant get away wid a splitter,there just aint the room,
and If ye persist, this is what happens

pulling the flange spreads the loads owa 360 degs, no just in a cupple of spots









last pic, the flange can still bend, butt supported 360 degs, it never has.
there method in me madness ye no.


M

[Gt6s]

ALL THREE LEAKING ? Have you cleared the breather ?

Laurence

[nang]

No, just old ones I had as spares. Just wanted to see how easily they came apart.
Tony.(eek)

[hyperhale]

Quoted from hyperhale

Thanks all for your advice, seals and bearings are on order - diff is out ready to work on.

I'll let you know how it goes...

Thanks to all of the great tips and advice from you guys all went to plan and the job is done.

I used a 1mm cutting disc to cut the old bearings almost fully through then a chisel to remove.

Had them both removed within 10 mins ...

New seals fitted and replacement bearings drifted on with no issues.

Thanks once again everyone!

[Velocita Rosso]

Quoted from GT6 M

Errr just hoo are ye gonna change the oil seal if the flange is still on the shaft,(think)(think)



M

Think you had better check.....the flange is affixed to the stub axle and does not come off
Once the circlip and bearing is off the oil seal is accessable

PS we are talking of the two (LH and RH) output shafts

[GT6 M]

Errr i think ye must be think,n of some thing else Ole Bean.
they doo come off, as they slide over the machined smoothe bit to stop oil flowing oot
see pic



M

[Andy Flexney]

GT6 M
ahh you mean the Oil seal Retainer and not the flange on the inner axle shaft.

Now I understand

AndyF

[Velocita Rosso]

Quoted from AndyF

Now I understand

AndyF

....well you are about the only one that does

[GT6 M]

Great minds think alike, well efta its been made clear, 😉
but some poor souls  div,nt, 😉

M